Visitor # 376255 since 13.AUG.2001
What about steering?
So, why in the world did 4Crawler Offroad decide to make body lift kits? There were a few reasons:
When it came time to upgrade my home-made 1" body lift, 4Crawler Offroad researched available materials and first decided to make a billet aluminum body lift block, similar in shape and size to the more common cast aluminum (at least that's what they claim they are made of) blocks, but out of stronger, solid material. The aluminum blocks were fine for a 1" lift, but a set of 3" tall blocks were made and installed, it just didn't look right. The 2" dia aluminum rod used was just not wide enough to offer support at 3" tall. While a larger diameter aluminum rod could have been used, it starts to get much more expensive and is harder to work.
After searching for a better material, Ultra High Molecular Weight (UHMW) polyethylene rod was selected and is available in a variety of sizes perfect body lift blocks. It has all the desirable properties one would want in a body lift block. Since this rod comes in long lengths, it can becut any length desired from 1/2" up to 3" and anything in between. It takes a fairly significant investment in machinery and tooling to work this material. Also, since the parts are built to order, adapting them to other vehicles is not a large issue. After all, lifting a Toyota 4Runner 1" is fundamentally no different than lifting a Landcruiser or other vehicle 1". If it's got a body on frame construction and some way to get a spacer between the two, you've got a body lift.
At this point, you may be wondering what the heck a body lift is and why would you even want one...
So why a body lift and what other lift options are there? In general there are three basic techniques available to lift a vehicle:
Usually, installing larger tires (#1) require that either #2 or #3 be done to provide adequate clearance for the tires within the wheel wells. Suspension lifts (#2) can be simple or complex, depending on what is modified and how it is done. Similarly, body lifts (#3) can be simple or complex, but are generally simpler and less complex and expensive than suspension modifications. Since the body lift only raises the body, it has less adverse impact on the vehicles center of gravity than other lift techniques, since the frame, engine and drive train remain at the original location.
If you assume a typical vehicle with perhaps 25% of it's mass in the body and perhaps 10% in the axles/wheels/tires, then look at the various types of lifts:
By raising the body up off the frame, you can gain needed room for larger tires and/or added ground clearance to protect the body from trail damage. However, a body lift will do nothing to change the operation of your suspension by itself. However, by combining a mild body lift, with a mild suspension lift may allow fitting a taller tire and result in a combined system that functions better than the individual components.
"Lift as much as needed, but as little as possible"
See the following section for a list of frequently asked questions...
Have a question not listed above, send an e-mail and we'll try to answer it.
Body mounts are what connect your trucks frame to the cab and/or bed. For strength, pickup beds are typically bolted directly to the frame, while the cab is mounted with compliant bushings (usually rubber or polyurethane) to isolate the cab from road noise and vibration. Starting at the front, there are two mounts behind the bumper, two more are located at the front foot well, two more behind the front seats. Then, in the 4Runner, there are two more in the rear passenger seat well, and two more at the rear of the cargo area. The pickup has 8 mounts on the bed (4 on each side), two near the front of the bed and two near the rear. You should try to locate each mounting point, and be sure you can gain access to both the top and bottom of each mounting bolt before undertaking a body lift.
The body/bed are connected to the frame by the mounts, as described above, to brackets (or horns) attached to the frame. In a body lift, spacers are installed between the body and the mounting brackets or bushings to lift the body above the frame.
From the factory, you'll find rubber body mount bushings. Over time, the rubber cracks and weakens with age. This can lead to what is called "shudder", which is a sort of side-to-side shaking felt when hitting bumps on the road. I tried everything to correct this problem on both my Toyota Landcruiser ('74 FJ-55) and later on my '85 4Runner, but nothing seemed to help until I installed polyurethane body mount bushings. It seems counter intuitive, that putting on a stiffer, less compressible bushing material would actually reduce this vibration, but that's what seems to happen. I think the vibration is actually caused by the relative motion allowed by the softer rubber. In technical terms, the resonant frequency is proportional to the stiffness of the compliant member. The rubber is soft and very compliant, leading transmission of the low frequency shudder, that is within the frequency range of bumps transmitted up from the road. The stiffer polyurethane, shifts the resonant frequency up to a higher value, which is effectively absorbed by the suspension of the vehicle.
All this leads to the point that if you are going to the trouble of installing a body lift, why not also put in some new polyurethane bushings, too. They should run somewhere in the $50-100 range and will make a dramatic improvement in the ride quality of your vehicle. If done with the lift, there is minimal extra work required. If you don't change out the stock bushings, the added leverage of the lift blocks may contribute to a worsened ride quality. A couple of polyurethane bushing manufacturers are:
4Crawler Offroad carries both of these brands for various applications. Typically, body mount bushing kits often include no instructions and even if they do, make no mention of body lift blocks. See the schematic diagram, below, for a simplified cross section of a properly installed body lift and bushing together. Note that not all vehicles will have all the parts below, for example, washers may or may not be present, bushings may be two-piece (as pictured) or one-piece:
XX New longer bolt
---- Factory Washer, either tabbed or round
~===========~ Floor of the cab or bed
+----+
| | Body Lift Block
| |
+----+
-------- New washer (if supplied w/ poly bushing kit)
+------+
| | Large poly bushing (Body or cab only)
+------+
========== Bracket off of the frame
+----+
| | Small poly bushing (Body or cab only)
\--/
---- Factory Washer
XX New lock nut
If re-using the stock body mount bushings, the picture is a little different:
XX New longer bolt
---- Factory Washer, either tabbed or round
~===========~ Floor of the cab or bed
+----+
| | Body Lift Block
| |
+----+
-------- Factory top washer (bonded to body mount bushing, not separate)
+------+
| | Large factory rubber bushing (Body or cab only)
+------+
========== Bracket off of the frame
+----+
| | Small factory rubber bushing (Body or cab only)
\--/
-------- Small factory washer
XX New lock nut
There is a metal bushing that goes inside the poly bushings, it gets sandwiched between the two washers outside the poly bushings and keeps them from getting compressed too much. When you tighten down the bolts, you bottom out this internal bushing. Note that not all vehicles will have all the parts below, for example, washers may or may not be present, bushings may be two-piece (as pictured below) or one-piece. The following image is an excellent rendering of a typical body mount, courtesy of John Evaskovich:
One concern with body lift blocks is possible electrolytic corrosion due to dissimilar metals touching. This can be a problem with aluminum blocks and the steel of the body. so a graphite paint coating is used on the aluminum blocks, so they should be fine against the body. If you want, you could cut out some plastic washers from an old plastic bottle and use that to separate the aluminum and steel if desired to prevent possible electrolytic action. The big advantage of the UHMW polyethylene body lift blocks is that they eliminate this possible problem, as polyethylene is inert and self-lubricating, so you won't even have problems with the paint wearing off the steel and causing rust as is common with extruded fiberglass blocks.
What exactly is in a body lift kit?
Landcruiser (click here
for models, pricing and options):
Below are some examples about what kind of options are available:
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| Aluminum Lift Blocks | UHMW-PE Lift Blocks |
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| Toyota 4Runner Kit | Toyota Pickup Kit |
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| Toyota FJ/BJ/HJ-60/62 Landcruiser | Kia Sportage |
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| Pickup/Tacoma Bed Spacers | Steering Shaft Extension |
One thing about many of the commercially available body lift kits is that they are an all-in-one package, one size fits all:
So, 4Crawler Offroad has chosen to supply a body lift in an "ala carte" form, e.g. you want blocks, you order the blocks; you want bolts, you order the bolts, etc. Here is a list of some common combinations of parts that are typically ordered.
While not required, on 1st generation Toyota trucks ('79-'88 pickups and '84-'89 4Runners), it is a good idea to check the condition of the stock rubber body mount bushings and if cracked or worn out, chang them to polyurethane (PU). PU will withstand the added strain of the taller body lift, and it actually transmits less noise and vibration from the frame to the body than rubber. Onfortunately, due to the recent high oil prices, the cost of polyurethane has skyrocketed, so the cost of the bushing kits has gone up as well. Polyurethane body mount kits are offered in the following configurations (and can be used as-is or with a body lift ):
Note: Bushing kit prices discounted $5.00 -10.00 with body lift kit purchase.
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| 1. Stock rubber vs. Poly Urethane | 2. Pickup('84-'88) 4Runner('84-'89) Bushings Current bushing set is all black |
3. FJ/BJ/HJ-60/2 Body Mounts Current bushing set is all black |
4. Montero LWB Body Mounts |
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Your body mounts here... |
| 5. Pickup'89+/Tacoma Mounts | 6. '90-95 4Runner Mounts Current bushing set is all black |
7. '96-00 4Runner Mounts Current bushing set is all black |
Your body mounts here... |
Pictured above:
Notes:
Certain vehicles, namely the 1996 Toyota 4Runner, are missing the B-pillar body mount brackets from the factory. For some reason, the brackets weren't attached to the frame, although the mounting plates and holes are present in the floor of the body. Because of the added stress of a body lift, its important to have all the body mount locations available for the most support. Below is a picture of a bolt on body mount bracket kit for the 1996 Toyota 4Runner:
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| Body Mount Bracket Kit |
Pictured at the bolt-on black brackets, self-tapping bolts to fasten them to the frame, red polyurethane body mount bushings and bolts to fasten the body to the mount. Also pictured are a pair of 1" body lift blocks, in which case the bolts supplied are 1" longer to accommodate the lift.
Note: This kit can be used without a body lift for added support on a stock '96 4Runner. Cost for the basic kit is $70.00 plus shipping. Add a pair of 1" body lift blocks for another $10.
Most (if not all) commercial body lift kits I've looked at use a "one size fits all" approach. You get one diameter of lift block (usually 2" OD) and that is to be used in all body mount locations. If you are a bit confused about the difference between the Standard and Ultimate body lift blocks, below are various combinations (of lift blocks - white UHMW or aluminum) installed on actual Toyota body mount bushings (the black rubber things) so you can see the differences:
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| A. 2-piece body mounts | B. Ultimate Lift Blocks |
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| C. Aluminum vs. UHMW | D. Aluminum Lift Blocks |
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| E. 1-piece body mount '89+ pickup/Tacoma w/ the various lift blocks |
F. 2" aluminum block |
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| G. 2" UHMW block | H. 2-1/2" UHMW block |
While a few 1/8's of an inch doesn't sound like a big deal, the difference in area is dramatic, the 2" UHMW block has nearly 27% more surface area than an actual 2" block and the 2-1/2" UHMW block has nearly 80% more surface area. Surface area equates directly to pressure on the floor of the cab/body of the vehicle. Many aftermarket body lift kits only supply 2" dia. blocks which are probably sufficient for on-road and mild off-road use, but for extreme off-road service, you need all the surface area you can get, or something like this can happen (image I below):
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| I: Problem with too-small lift block | J: Larger Diameter Block |
So if larger blocks are better, why stop at 2.5"? A few reasons not to use larger blocks:
Bottom Line: The Ultimate blocks simply match the size of the existing body mount bushings, while the standard blocks are all the same (smaller) size.
The UHMW material comes in a natural white color, as shown in the section above. As a material, it is somewhat similar to Teflon in that it is very stain-resistant and most dyes and paints will not stick. 4Crawler Offroad has developed a process by which a colored coating is applied to the visible parts of the block, for those wishing a color other than white. This process is available at an additional cost of $1.00/block and is currently available in flat colors, black is the default. Click here to see an image of a colored 1" tall block . This is specified by ordering the CLR kit option. Of course, the 1" tall aluminum blocks are natural aluminum color. You may paint, powder coat or anodize them to your color preference.
Mounting hardware is offered in both a standard and heavy duty size and also in standard and heavy duty grade (see bottom of this section for more information on the standard size, heavy duty grade hardware).
And of course, you can also supply your own hardware, if you want all metric or something even harger, it is your choice. Just let us know what diameter bolts you plan on using so the blocks can be pre-drilled to fit.
Manual transmissions and transfer cases have shift levers that are attached to the transmission (or transfer case) and extend up into the passenger compartment for access. Since the transmission or transfer case is attached to the frame, when the body is lifted, the shift lever "sinks" into the floor of the vehicle. With a 1" lift, this would probably not even be noticed. On a 2" - 3" lift, it probably is noticeable. Several options exist to correct this problem. One option is to cut the shift lever off near the base and have a sections of 1/2" dia. steel rod welded in to lengthen the shifter.
Another option is an extension that can be added to the top of the shift lever. As such, the extension will have an M12-1.25mm internal thread to match the end of the shifter and an M12-1.25mm external thread to accept the shifter ball to be re-installed on top. Note that this extension will only work on shifters that have a screwed on shift knob and only on ones without any sort of switch or actuator on the knob. Also note that this extension will typically not help reduce shifter binding at the floor penetration due to a body lift, it will only lengthen the shifter.
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| 3" Extension (top) 2" Extension (bottom) |
Shifter Extension Installed |
| Order a 2" Shift Lever Extension: $20.00 + shipping |
Order a 3" Shift Lever Extension: $25.00 + shipping |
US Delivery: $7.00 postage |
US Delivery: $7.00 postage |
| ~~~~~ | ~~~~~ |
International Delivery: $12.00 postage |
International Delivery: $12.00 postage |
One extension will be needed for each shift lever that you want to lengthen. The extension length is measured along the smooth section, with an extra inch being threaded to accept the shifter knob. A shipping charge is added automatically with the ordering buttons above for Priority Mail delivery, please be sure to provide a VALID mailing address and international orders, provide a local telephone number for customs papaerwork.
One issue that shift levers can cause with body lifts is that as the shifter "sinks" into the floor, the distance from the lever's pivot point to the floor penetration is increased. This means that the shift lever sweeps out a wider arc in the various gear selection positions. Enlarging the hole in the floor is one option or bending the base of the shift lever is another option. A simple extension, while it makes the shift lever longer, will not help alleviate the clearance issues at the shifter boot. A better option to both extend the shifter and to shorten its throw is a short shift kit. Here is a short throw kit that bolts onto the Toyota transfer case shifters.
Most Toyota 4WD body lift kits would not work on vehicles with automatic transmissions. The A/T shift linkage on most Toyota 4WD pickups and 4Runner (up through 1995) consists of two main parts, the transmission shift lever and the transfer case shift lever. The transmission lever is adjustable and can handle up to a 3" body lift with simple adjustments. There are two types of 4WD, or transfer case, shifters. The most common type is an external linkage, on the other hand will only work up to about a 1" body lift without modifications. Above 1", a bracket is required that lifts the transfer case shift lever up so that body lifts in the 2" to 3" range can now be done on A/T equipped Toyota 4WD vehicles. A less common type of transfer case shifter goes directly into the transfer case, just like a manual transmission setup (see above section) and this bracket setup is not needed. You should examine your transmission/transfer case linkage to verify which type you have before ordering and installing a body lift lit.
The table below lists some typical vehicle applications for which body lift kits are available and whether that application will require brackets for the automatic transmission linkage. Note that "Y" indicates a bracket kit is required to install the body lift and "N" means that one is not needed, although some linkage adjusments will typically be required:
| Application | 1" Lift | 2" Lift | 3" Lift |
| '79-'88 Toyota Pickup | N | Y | Y |
| '84-'89 Toyota 4Runner | N | Y | Y |
| '89-'95 Toyota Pickup | N | Y | Y |
| '90-'95 Toyota 4Runner | N | Y | Y |
| '95-'04 Toyota Tacoma | N | N | N |
| ''96-'02 Toyota 4Runner | N | N | N |
| '02-'06 Toyota 4Runner | N | N | N |
| Toyota FJ/BJ/HJ-60/62 Landcruiser | N | N | N |
| Mitsubishi Montero | N | N | N |
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| 2" A/T Shift Lever Bracket | Bracket Install Location | 3" Bracket Kit, Installed |
The bracket is priced at $45 (for 2") or $55 (for 3") as-is (for use on existing body lifts), That is if you have another brand body lift that does not include the A/T linkage brackets, this is the kit for you. A 2" or 3" lift is a 2" or 3" lift no matter what brand lift kit is used. A shipping charge is added automatically with the ordering buttons below for Priority Mail delivery, please be sure to provide a VALID mailing address and international orders, provide a local telephone number for customs papaerwork.. Consult the installation instructions for more details. The bracket is fabricated from 3/16" thick steel and includes new mounting bolts to attach the lower bracket to it, the existing hardware is then used to attach the bracket to the stock location (circled in red in the above-right image). The 3" spacer includes a bolt on extension for the upper shift linkage (circled in green in the above-right image) to prevent binding in the 2H position. Before ordering this bracket, see the important notes below:
| Order a 2" A/T bracket: US$45.00 + shipping | Order a 3" A/T bracket set: US$55.00 + shipping |
US Delivery: $7.00 shipping |
US Delivery: $7.00 shipping |
| ~~~~~ | ~~~~~ |
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International Delivery: $12.00 shipping |
Notes:
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| A: Steering shaft disassembled | B: Steering shaft extended | C: Recirc.Ball vs. Rack&Pinion |
Toyota vehicles with rack and pinion steering typically use a nearly vertical steering shaft that runs from the steering column penetration of the firewall to the steering rack mounted on the frame. Since the shaft is vertical, it is directly affected by a body lift. There is some amount of adjustment at the lower clamp, sometimes and inch or more of excess shaft is inside the clamp. However, it is difficult to ascertain the amount of spline remaining inside the clamp without removing the steering shaft. At the base of the steering shaft is the "rag joint", that allows for slight misalignment and also helps to absorb jolts from the road. It is possible to slightly extend the length of the shaft with washers on top of the rag joint. Beyond about 1/2" and the stop bolts on the rag joint will slip past the slots on the steering shaft and this would leave the rag joint unsupported and subject to damage. Therefore, an extension of some is required. In the above images, you can see the rag joint disassembled and the extension that slips over the stop bolts and is then bolted in between the rag joint and steering shaft. Due to the angle of the steering shaft, the spacer can be a bit less than the amount of body lift, for example, for a 3" lift, the spacer is 2.5" tall.
The table below lists some typical vehicle applications for which body lift kits are available and whether that application will require extensions for the steering shaft. Note that "Y" indicates an extension is likely required to install the body lift and "N" means that one is likely not needed, although some adjustment of the steering shaft may be required (click here for details):
| Application | 1" Lift | 2" Lift | 3" Lift |
| '79-'88 Toyota Pickup | N | N | N |
| '84-'89 Toyota 4Runner | N | N | N |
| '89-'95 Toyota Pickup | N | N | Y |
| '90-'95 Toyota 4Runner | N | N | Y |
| '95-'04 Toyota Tacoma | Y/1" | Y/2" | Y/3" |
| '96-'02 Toyota 4Runner | Y/1" | Y/2" | Y/3" |
| '03-'06 Toyota 4Runner | Y | n/a | n/a |
| Toyota FJ/BJ/HJ-60/62 Landcruiser | N | N | N |
| Mitsubishi Montero | N | N | N |
The 1" lift rack&pinion extension (pictured right in image "C" above) is priced at $30.00 for use with existing body lifts. Extensions for 1.5", 2" and 3" lifts are available for use on existing body lifts as well. On Tacoma 4WD pickups with 4" ProComp lifts, steering extension beyond 5/8" tall may not clear the steering rack drop bracket.
Use the convenient on-line ordering buttons below to order stand-alone steering shaft extensions for use with your existing body lift: (if ordering with a 4Crawler body lift kit, do not order below, contact 4Crawler Offroad for a kit discount). A shipping charge is added automatically with the ordering buttons below for Priority Mail delivery, please be sure to provide a VALID mailing address and international orders, provide a local telephone number for customs papaerwork. Order the steering extension designed for the type of steering:
Order a 1" Lift |
Order a 1.5" Lift Rack&Pinion Steering Extension: US$40.00 + shipping: |
Order a 2" Lift |
Order a 3" Lift Rack&Pinion Steering Extension: US$50.00 + shipping: |
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