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1985 Toyota 4Runner 22RE Engine/Misc. Photos

Here are various photos of the 22RE engine and misc. items that I have taken over the years.

On to the pix...

 
  Here was the engine part way through replacing all the factory rubber vacuum hose with a silicone hose kit from RS Akimoto, purchased from Summit Racing. Kit contained 3mm, 6mm and 10mm ID hose, about 10' pf the small diameter and a few feet of the larger sizes. Another shot of the hose swap in progress Shot of the factory cruise control servo The rear of the intake plenum showing the 3-port fitting which feed the fuel pressure regulator, cruise control and I tapped the 3rd port for my in-cab vacuum gauge. Overall view of the vacuum hoses with the hose swap mostly finished. The kit I got had 10' of 3mm hose and I ran short, so another 10'/3mm hose kit was ordered to finish the swap. I also used some 6mm and 10mm hose from the kit.  
 

 
  Head-on view of the intake plenum and hoses. Closeup of the idle-up valve. The red capped port is where the stock power steering VSV connected, my new p/s pump has no such VSV, thus the cap. The white plastic knob is used to increase/decrease the fast idle speed under A/C or P/S operation. Overhead view of the intake hoses. Fuel pressure regulator VSV is in the upper right corner (blue/gree color). And a closeup of that VSV. It switches vacuum to the FPR to adjust fuel pressure while starting, only present on 4WD 22REs. I eliminated that part on my engine, running a red hose off the 3-port fitting, up and over the intake and down to the FPR, see the green arrows that show the added vacuum line. So how does it work? I've observed none of the hot starting problem the VSV is supposed to prevent and no other issues in about 5 years of running like this. I got rid of a vacuum line, a VSV and the two wires hooked to it.  
 

 
  Another shot of the idle-up valve, both capped P/S idle up lines shown. Capped since they are not used. Second shot of the same idle-up valve. Shot of the idle-up valve and the A/C VSV that turns on w/ A/C operation to boost idle speed. Heater hose connections on my '85 4Runner. Red circle is the heater valve and fitting that used to feed the rear heater. I now use it for my hot water shower heater. Green circle is the return line. Closeup of the fuel pump test jumper.  
 

 
  Another shot of the heater hoses. Here is the Painless Wiring HotShot starter relay kit I installed. Red button is a push button start feature. Relay makes starting flawless, no more fiddling with the key to get good contact. Here is the oil filter on the passenger side wheel well (access panel removed). Oil pressure sender is the black rubber covered thing below the filete. Knock sensor (yellow) is visible at the 10 o'clock position from the filter, starter to the far left. Here is the charcoal cannister, the Here is the A/C Low Pressure switch, located behind the glove box, that needs to be jumpered if you want to do something like use the A/C compressor for on-board air or for a fast-idle (via the A/C VSV) controlled off the A/C button. Normally, the low pressure switch keeps the A/C from running w/o adequate Freon inside.  
 

 
  This is the 22RE ECU Engine Coolant Temperature sender, located below the throttle body, and how to test it with an ohm meter Ever wonder what the stock backspacing is on a solid axle Toyota wheel? 3-3/8 Ever wonder what size your wheels are? Look on the inside of the rim, this is a 15 Ever wonder what the stock backspacing is on an '86-'95 Toyota wheel? 4-3/4 Easy way to pull the PCV valve, a block of wood and a pry bar. Fit the nail pulling notch around the PCV valve and level it straight up. The grommet it usually very hard and brittle and is easiest to remove with needle nose pliers, grabbing and twisting it out.  
 

 
  This schematic shows how the dash light dimmer circuit works, dimmer rheostat is in the ground leg of all the dimmable lights.  
 

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