Original or existing part
XX New longer bolt
---- Factory Washer, either tabbed or round
~===========~ Floor of the cab or bed
+----+
| | Body Lift Block
| |
+----+
-------- Factory top washer (bonded to body mount bushing, not separate)
+------+
| | Large factory rubber bushing (Body or cab only)
+------+
========== Bracket off of the frame
+----+
| | Small factory rubber bushing (Body or cab only)
\--/
-------- Small factory washer
XX New lock nut
There is a metal bushing that goes inside the poly bushings, it gets
sandwiched between the two washers outside the poly bushings and keeps
them from getting compressed too much. When you tighten down the bolts,
you bottom out this internal bushing. Note that not all vehicles will
have all the parts below, for example, washers may or may not be
present, bushings may be two-piece (as pictured below) or one-piece.
You can think of the body mount bushing like an Oreo-type cookie. The
top and bottom washers are like the cookie wafers and the rubber part
is like the creme filling. Without the sleeve in between the washers,
the filling (i.e. rubber bushing) would squeeze out when you tightened
the body mount bolt. Since the body lift blocks are not compressible,
they do not need a sleeve or top/bottom washers to work. Rather they
just get clamped in between the top washer of the body mount bushing
and the floor of the cab/body. The clamping force of the body mount
holds the block in place.
The following image is an excellent rendering of a typical body mount,
courtesy of John Evaskovich:

One concern with body lift blocks is possible electrolytic corrosion
due to dissimilar metals touching. This can be a problem with aluminum
blocks and the steel of the body. If you wish, you could apply a heavy
paint or spray-on undercoating to the top of the blocks. Anotehr option
would be to cut out some plastic washers from an old plastic milk jug
and use that to separate the aluminum and steel if desired to prevent
possible electrolytic action. The big advantage of the UHMW
polyethylene body lift blocks is that they eliminate this possible
problem, as polyethylene is inert and self-lubricating, so you won't
even have problems with the paint wearing off the steel and causing
rust as is common with extruded fiberglass blocks.
[Return to the top of this page]
What exactly is in a body lift kit?
-
Something to put between the frame and the body (lift blocks)
-
Longer-than-stock bolts to hold the body to the frame (mounting
hardware)
-
Various brackets to relocate items that connect between the frame and
body, such as:
-
Bumpers, front and rear
-
Steering Shaft
-
Radiator
-
Shift Linkage
What is listed below is information on all the vehicles we have
sufficient information to construct a body lift kit or components for.
If what you need is not listed below that means we do not have
sufficient information required to design and build that component or
vehicle kit. If you would like us to design any not-listed components
or kits, see this section of the web page for the
required information. Almost every kit listed below has been
designed from information supplied by customers just like you.
All our body lift kits are proudly designed and manufactured in
the USA
-
Toyota:
-
1979-1995 2WD/4WD
Pickup/Hilux/Trekker and T-100 (click here for pricing and options)
-
1984-current
2WD/4WD 4Runner/Hilux Surf (click here for pricing and options)
-
1995.5-current 2WD/4WD
Tacoma and Tundra (click here for pricing and options)
-
Landcruiser (click here
for models, pricing and options):
-
Including: FJ-40, 45, FJ-55, {F,B,H}J-6{0,1,2}, FJ-70, FJ-80 (and Lexus
LX-450) and, FJ Cruiser
-
Mitsubishi
-
Kia
-
Isuzu:
-
Amigo - Tony Vang has a nice
2" lifted '99 Amigo
-
Rodeo - 1/2" and 1" lift kits
-
2WD uses 10 - 2" OD blocks (cost $50.00)
-
4WD uses 10 - 2" OD and 2 2.5" OD blocks (cost $62.00)
-
For the 1" / 4WD lift, 4 hardware options:
-
Supply your own
-
6 longer metric bolts for the rear (cost $25.00)
-
6 longer metric rear and 6 longer SAE bolts for the front (cost $40.00)
-
12 longer metric bolts for all body mounts (cost $50.00)
-
1/2" lift can re-use stock hardware
-
Taller lift blocks (only) (1.5", 2" and 3") are
available for special order
-
Add $15.00 per extra inch (or fraction) of height for 2WD kits and
$19.00 for 4WD kits
-
Should also fit Honda Passport models
-
Trooper:
-
Uses 4-2.5" and 8-3" dia. lift blocks typically
-
Blocks: up to 1": $92.00, up to 2": $124.00
-
Hardware, mix of 6 metric (M10) and 6 SAE (3/8") bolts $65.00, all
12 bolts in metric (M10) $80.00
-
Note that these are not complete kits, for other hardware/brackets, see this section of the web page.
-
Nissan
-
Frontier
pickup
-
Uses 4-6 2" OD blocks (bed) and 6-8 2.5" OD blocks (cab)
(total of 12-14 typically) and 1-2 pair of bed spacers
-
2" blocks drilled for 10mm bolt and 2.5" blocks drilled for
12mm bolt
-
2" OD blocks/ea.: $5.00/1", $6.50/2", $8.00/3"
-
2.5" OD blocks/ea.: $7.00/1", $9.00/2", $11.00/3"
-
Metric hardware now available, $65.00 for the 8 - 12mm and 4 - 10mm on
the double cab models
-
Bed spacers/pr.: $10.00/1", $12.00/2", $14.00/3"
-
For a typical double cab model, typical kit of ultimate blocks
(4-2"OD, 8-2.5"OD) + hardware + 2 pr. bed spcrs, cost:
-
1" - US$161.00 + applicable
sales tax and shipping
-
2" - US$187.00 + applicable
sales tax and shipping
-
Note that there is some variation in the bolt
lengths for the Nissan Frontier pickup models.
-
So to ensure best hardware kit fit, you may want to send us the
measurements of the bolt lengths and diameters for your particular
vehicle so we can verify problem bolt lengths for the body lift kit.
-
Typically all cab bolts are 12mm dia. and all the same length, 8 in
total
-
If you have 2 or more longer bolts, then add $25.00 to the hardware kit
price for those longer bolts.
-
Bed bolts are 10mm in dia. and all the same length, 6 in total.
-
If it's easier, we can send the default hardware and then if needed
work with you to exchange needed bolts afterwards.
-
Note that these are not complete kits, for other hardware/brackets, see this section of the web page.
-
Note that the applications below are body lift blocks only
-
For other hardware/brackets, see this section
of the web page and let us know what you'll be needing...
-
Don't order the lift blocks and then complain that you didn't get bolts
or other brackets!
-
IH Scout
-
80 and 800 series, 9 - 2" OD blocks, 7/16" center hole
-
1" - $45.00, 2" - 58.50, 3" - $72.00
-
Other vehicles - Information on custom applications
-
Jeep CJ, TJ, XJ (SWB) use 10 - 2" OD blocks,
-
$50.00 - up to 1", $65.00 - up to 2", $80.00 up to 3"
-
Range Rover uses 10 - 2" OD blocks w/ 10mm
holes,
-
$50.00 - up to 1", $65.00 - up to 2", $80.00 up to 3"
-
early Ford Bronco uses 8 - 2.5" OD blocks,
-
$48.00 - up to 1", $64.00 - up to 2", $80.00 - up to 3"
-
Chevy S10 Blazer uses 10 - 2.5" OD blocks w/ 12mm holes:
-
$60.00 - up to 1", $80.00 - up to 2", $100.00 - up to 3"
Below are some examples about what kind of options are available:
 |
 |
Aluminum Lift Blocks |
UHMW-PE Lift Blocks |
 |
 |
Toyota 4Runner Kit |
Toyota Pickup Kit |
 |
 |
Toyota {F,B,H}J-6{0,1,2} Landcruiser |
Kia Sportage |
 |
 |
Pickup/Tacoma Bed Spacers |
Steering Shaft Extension |
-
Body lift blocks
-
1/2" - 3" lift w/ or w/o hardware:
-
A lathe is used to drill the bolt hole in the center of the block
-
A close fit is an important design feature as it keeps the body from
shifting around on the frame, taller lift blocks have slightly larger
holes drilled to ease installation of the longer bolts.
-
Cast blocks often have oversized, irregularly shaped holes due to the
nature of the mfg. process
-
On UHMW blocks taller than 1", you may notice a slight deviation
of the hole from the center of the block due to variations in the block
diameter in the extrusion process. Since the blocks are slightly
oversized in most applications, the slight offset from center has no
affect on the function of the block.
-
The one face of the block is than machined square to the axis of the
center hole
-
Then the opposite face is machined square and the edges are slightly
chamfered to reduce stress concentrations

-
Lift block options:
-
2" dia. billet Aluminum
Blocks
-
Cost is $9.00/ea for the 1" tall blocks; taller blocks not
available.
-
UHMW Poly
Ethylene blocks
-
Available in 2", 2.5", 3" 3.5" nominal diameter
blocks.
-
UHMW is a dense plastic, that will eliminate possible corrosion and
squeaking problems that could potentially happen with a metallic block.
-
UHMW blocks are available in two sizes:
-
Standard body lift:
-
Ultimate body lift:
-
Combination of 2" dia. for front and bed mounts, and 2.5"
dia. for remaining cab mounts:
-
The Ultimate blocks are the same
diameter as the larger cab/body mounts so offer the ultimate in
strength, both in the block itself as well as spreading the load of the
body over the sheet metal contact point.
-
Custom height lift blocks are
available as well:
-
Any size lift from 1/4" to 3", no-cost consultation on your
custom applications
-
Specify center bolt hole size for drilling
-
A 1/2 " body lift is an interesting proposition, as many stock
mounting bolts have approx. 1/2" of excess length, so this height
lift, while not a lot, can be done without the added expense of
replacing the stock bolts. If interested in this option, 4Crawler
Offroad can make 1/2" blocks, drilled for the 10mm stock bolts
-
A new product addition is a 1-3/8" body lift block for the Kia
Sportage. This block has a number of important features:
-
It is 3.5" in diameter with an integral "cup" to
contain the rubber body mount bushing as well as a tapered end
that fits into the "cup" on the underside of the body.
-
It has a 19mm center hole to accommodate the factory body mounts bolts
and is the tallest lift possible with the existing hardware, a total of 8 are
required.
-
Longer bolts and nylon lock nuts:
-
The stock bolts will not work beyond about 1/2" of lift on most
vehicles
-
Several hardware options are
available:
-
Standard, heavy duty,
stainless steel and metric.
-
Standard bolts have approx. the same strength as the factory hardware
and will fit the stock body washers without modification
-
Heavy duty bolts are about 25% stronger than stock and will fit into
the stock mounting holes and body washers with some slight
modifications.
-
Stainless steel hardware is rust resistant.
-
Metric hardware is just that, same diameter and grade as stock,
although thread pitch and head size may differ from stock.
-
The pickup bed bolts (or nuts) include tabs (like stock, where
applicable) for ease of installation.
-
Hardware is SAE Grade 5 or better, which combines good tensile as well
as shear strength.
-
Hardware is either zinc or cadmium plated for corrosion resistance
-
You may also supply your own mounting hardware
-
If you want to use custom size bolts, blocks can be drilled to your
specifications or even supplied un-drilled
-
Radiator drop brackets (if needed):
-
The radiator (and fan shroud) are attached to the body, the engine (and
fan) to the frame
-
Fits standard 20cm Toyota radiator bolt spacing, drilled for 1"
and 2" drop
-
You may be able to simply remove the lower radiator shroud extension
-
With a 1" lift, you will have to modify the radiator flange a bit
to install the bracket
-
An electric radiator fan eliminates this problem as the fan is attached
to the radiator and not the engine
-
Tacoma trucks do not require a bracket and it is possible to simply use
existing or new mounting holes
-
Stock front bumper drop bracket and hardware (if needed):
-
Will raise stock bumper to original height as bumper will no longer fit
with body lift
-
On 4Runners, the rear bumper is attached to the underside of the body
-
Stock rear bumper relocation hardware (Tacoma pickups)
-
Hardware kit allows existing rear bumper brackets to be modified to
match body lifts from 1"-3" and re-use the stock bumper
bracket bolts.
-
A bracket for raising Toyota
A/T transfer case lever for 2" - 3" lifts is now
available:
-
Bracket includes mounting hardware.
-
A steering shaft extension
for Toyota rack and pinion as well as recirculating ball steering box
steering:
-
Extension bolts on to the stock rag joint and extends the shaft 1"
or more
-
Bed Spacers
-
For certain vehicles, there are places where the bed or body is
supported by contact with the frame. While the body lift blocks and
longer bolts will properly support the bed or body, for added load
capacity, a separate bed
spacer can be bolted or welded to the frame to provide
a contact point.
-
If you want to "roll your own", click here for a VRML model of a
body lift block
-
A proper body lift block should be uncompressible, there should be
minimal play between the bolt and block to prevent it from racking
-
If interested in "rolling your own", I'd be more than happy
to supply you with a suitable quantity of material:
-
2" UHMW rod at $2.00/inch, 2.5" at $3.00/inch and $1.00 per
cut on either item
One thing about many of the commercially available body lift kits is
that they are an all-in-one package, one size fits all:
-
If you want just the blocks, you have to buy the whole kit and throw
away the parts you don't need.
-
If you want shorter blocks, you cut the taller blocks in two and throw
away the parts you don't need.
-
Much of the hardware supplied is specific to the amount of lift in the
blocks, so it can't be re-used.
-
Bolts only have thread on the lower inch or so of the bolt, so if its
shortened more than this, its no longer a bolt, its just a round rod
with a hex head on top.
So, 4Crawler Offroad has chosen to supply a body lift in an "ala
carte" form, e.g. you want blocks, you order the blocks; you
want bolts, you order the bolts, etc. Here
is a list of some common combinations of parts that are typically
ordered.
[Return to the top of this page]
While not required, it is a good idea to check the condition of the
stock rubber body mount bushings and if cracked or worn out, change
them to polyurethane (PU). PU will withstand the added strain of the
taller body lift, and it actually transmits less noise and vibration
from the frame to the body than rubber.
If planning to install a body lift kit on your vehicle, it is a good
idea to inspect your original body mount bushings to see what condition
then are in. Look for any deep cracking or tears in the rubber
bushings. And with the one piece bushings, look for separation of the
rubber from the surrounding steel bracket or places where the bushings
have collapsed and are allowing the body to rest directly on the frame
bracket (usually you'll hear squeaking or rattling noises if this
happens). If you have any doubt about the condition of the original
rubber body mount bushings, there is no better time than when
installing a body lift to swap out those bushings, since you can easily
swap out the bushings prior to putting in the body lift blocks.
Speaking of squeaking, there's a common misconception that poly
urethane body mount bushings are prone to squeaking. While it is true
that poly urethane suspension bushings are prone to squeaking, realize
the squeaking happens when there's something moving against the poly
bushing. Imagine a spring shackle or control arm bushing as the
suspension cycles up and down. The bushing will be rotating against
whatever is touching it and that's where the squeaking comes from.
Common solutions are to apply lubricant to the poly or use a black,
graphite loaded urethane material. On the other hand, a poly body mount
bushing is a different application. The body sits on the bushing and
the bushing captures the body mount bracket and all that is held
together with a bolt. For squeaks to happen, something has to move
across the poly bushing. If your body is sliding around atop those
bushings, something is seriously wrong, i.e. body mount bolts are loose
or missing. If that is the case, fix the problem and the squeaks should
go away. Long story short, no need for additional lubrication with poly
body mount bushigs.
Especially on the newer model full bodied vehicles, the trend is the
the mfg. to install taller, softer rubber bushings for a quieter ride
on the road. However, in off-road use, those large squishy
factory bushings can allow excessive body movement relative to the
frame. If you have aftermarket bumpers, rock sliders or other trail
protection (like a roll cage) install, the body may move enough to make
contact with that trail armor and cause noise. Also, those soft rubber
bushings are more prone to tearing when subjected to the extreme
stresses of off-road driving. In these cases, the firmer polyurethane
bushings are a good upgrade.
What makes the bushing kits offered by 4Crawler Offroad different than
those from other companies?
-
We offer kits for many vehicles for which there are no aftermarket kits
available.
-
We offer any combination of bushing components, if you need 1 or 2
bushings or need to add or subtract bushings from an existing kit, no
problem.
-
We hand inspect and test-assemble each bushing kit in most cases.
Amazing as it seems, we find that at least 25% of the boxes of
supposedly complete bushing kits we open are missing parts. So we try
and make sure each kit is complete and order extra parts from the
bushing mfg. to make up any shortages before the bushing kit gets to
you.
-
We custom drill all the bushing washers to fit the size hardware you'll
be using with the bushings. Most aftermarket bushing kits will not work
with stock size hardware, strange as it seems. So let us know what
size/diameter hardware you plan to use with the bushings, and we'll do
our best to accommodate that. There may be an additional charge to
drill out these components, or you are welcome to perform that
operation yourself.
-
We also hand assemble our bushing kits, where possible, to ensure that
the kit is complete and that all the separate components fit together.
You would be amazed how many "bad" bushing kits we get and
have to "fix".
Note that PU body mount bushings will likely look different than the
OEM rubber bushings. There are several reasons for this, mostly to do
with the different materials and molding operations. Rubber tends to be
"squishier" than PU. As such, bushings are often designed to
compress to a greater degree when made of rubber. So they will appear
taller when uncompressed. Also, OEM rubber bushings are often molded
with washers, sleeves and other metal parts bonded together inside in
complex clamshell molds. This is how rubber has to be molded, it's put
in a mold and then put under heat and pressure to allow the
vulcanization process to occur. PU, on the other hand, is poured into
an open mold as a liquid then heated in an oven to cure the polymer. PU
molds have to allow for the cured part to be removed and thus they
can't have the intricate ribbing and details like the rubber bushings.
Case in point, look at the tire on your truck and compare that to a PU
skateboard wheel. Also, with PU, the exact mechanical properties, like
durometer, can be easily controlled by the polymer ingredients. With a
rubber bushing, you have less control over the material properties and
instead rely on the bushing shape to produce the desired bushing
properties. That's why the rubber bushings often have complex ribbing
and narrower/thicker sections to allow for the desired compression
characteristics.
Polyurethane body mount kits are offered in the following
configurations (and can be used as-is or with a body lift ):
-
Toyota
-
Pickup:
-
('79-'88) - $90.00 (6 cab mounts, 6 - 2 piece bushings)
-
Available in black bushing material
-
('89-'95) - $110.00 (6 cab mounts, 2 - 2 piece and 4 - 1 piece
bushings)
-
Pickups have no bushings between the bed and the frame.
-
Available in black only.
-
4Runner:
-
('84-'89) - $120.00 (10 body mounts, all 2 piece bushings)
-
('90-'95) - $180.00 (10 body mounts, 6 - 2 piece and 4 - 1 piece
bushings)
-
('96-only)
-
9th and 10th body mount brackets+bushings+bolts:
-
Weld-on: $75.00
-
Bolt-on: $95.00
-
8 bushing kit $180.00
-
Available in black only.
-
('96-'99) - $190 (10 body mounts, 8 - 2 piece, and 2 - 1 piece
bushings)
-
('01-'02) - $250 (10 body mounts, 6 - 2 piece, and 4 - 1 piece bushings
-
Available in black or red by special order.
-
2000 models may have bushings like the '96-'99 or like the '01-'02, so
order accordingly
-
Landcruiser
-
FJ-40
-
(1/'64 - 12/'78) - $160.00 - (12 - 2"x2" and 1 -
2"x4" body mounts)
-
Available in black only.
-
FJ-45
-
$160.00 - (12 - 2"x2" and 1 - 2"x4" body mount and
2 2.5" dia. mounts)
-
Available in black only.
-
FJ-55
-
(1968 - 7/'80) - $180.00 - (10 - 2-piece bushings, sleeves and washers
w/ up to 6 - 1/4" spacers if needed)
-
Available in black only.
-
{F,B,H}J-6{0,1,2} (see notes
below)
-
(all years) - $200.00 - (12 body mounts, includes custom mix of sizes
to fit the body mount cups, as needed, see #3 below)
-
Available in black only
-
{F,B}J-70 (see notes below)
-
(all years) - $150.00 - (8 body mounts, includes custom mix of sizes to
fit the body mount cups, as needed, see #3 below)
-
Available in black only
-
BJ-73 (see notes below)
-
(all years) - $160.00 - (10 body mounts, includes custom mix of sizes
to fit the body mount cups, as needed, see #3 below)
-
Available in black only
-
FJ-80: (see notes below)
-
(all years) - $160.00 - 10 body mounts, with 2 - small, 6 - medium and
2 - large diameter typical, see note 3 below.
-
Tacoma:
-
1995.5 - 2000 (all models) - $110.00 - (6 cab mounts, 2 - 2 piece and 4
- 1 piece bushings)
-
2001 - 2004 (std. and xtra cab models) - $145.00 - (6 cab mounts, 2 - 2
piece and 4 - 1 piece bushings; 2 tall and 2 short)
-
2001- 2004 (double cab models) - $180..00 - (6 cab mounts, 2 - 2 piece
and 4 tall - 1 piece bushings)
-
Tacoma pickups have no bushings between the bed and the frame
-
Available in black only.
-
2005-2012 2WD and 4WD models - $200.00 (6 cab mounts, 2 - 2 piece and 4
tall - 1 piece bushings)
-
Tacoma pickups have no bushings between the bed and the frame
-
Available in black only.
-
Mitsubishi
-
Montero/Pajero/(Dodge Raider):
-
LWB: $185.00 (12 body mounts)
-
SWB: $155.00 (10 body mounts) or $125.00 (8 body mounts)
-
On some Generation 2 Monteros, the front pair of body mounts is a 1
piece unit and can't be replaced.
-
If so, leave these body mounts as-is and replace the remaining ones.
-
You can order a kit with 2 fewer mounts if this applies or return the
unused bushings.
-
The bushing kit may not fit the 1994 Pajero Exceed model which has more
oval shaped mount mount bushings.
-
D50/MityMax Pickup:
-
Cab-only: ($95.00) (6 cab mounts)
Note: Bushing kit prices typically discounted with body lift kit
purchase.
 |
 |
 |
 |
1. Stock rubber vs. Poly Urethane |
2. Pickup('79-'88)
4Runner('84-'89) Bushings
Current bushing set is available in black only |
3. FJ/BJ/HJ-60/61/62 Body Mounts
Current bushing set is all black |
4. Montero LWB Body Mounts |
 |
 |
 |
 |
5. Pickup '89-'95
& Tacoma '95.5-'00 Mounts |
6. '90-'95 4Runner Mounts
Current bushing set is all black, |
7. '96-'00 4Runner Mounts
Current bushing set is all black |
8. '01-'02 4Runner Mounts |
. |
. |
. |
. |
Your body mounts here... |
Your body mounts here... |
Your body mounts here... |
Your body mounts here... |
Pictured above:
-
A set of stock rubber body mount bushings (black) and
replacement poly urethane bushings, approx. 92A durometer, (red)
-
Large bushing: 62mm OD x 16mm ID x 21mm H x 24mm frame bracket hole
-
Small bushing: 45mm OD x 16mm ID x 19mm H x 24mm frame bracket hole
-
Lower bushing (all the same size): 42mm OD x 16mm ID x 23mm H
-
Steel sleeve: 16mm OD x 12.5mm ID x 42mm long
-
Note, the above dimensions are measured un-compressed. In the
compressed state, the outer diameters will increase about 10-12% and
the height will reduce slightly. For example:
-
The 62mm OD bushing will increase to 68-70mm, the 45mm OD, etc.
-
The height will decrease (for example the 21mm height will drop to
about 19mm) as the bushings are compressed. The small bushings do not
compress much at all as they have less weight on them.
-
Heights also do not include the separate top washer (factory washers
are bonded to the upper bushing half), and that washer is approx. 3mm
(1/8") thick and the diameter of the washer matches the diameter
of the bushing.
-
A typical polyurethane pickup (1st/2nd gen) / 4Runner (1st gen)
cab/body mount kit.
-
To the left is a 1st/2nd gen. pickup kit, with a total of 6 cab mount
bushings
-
With all 10, you have a 1st gen. 4Runner kit.
-
Also shown at the top are the new top washers which are drilled to
accept either stock or or the larger body lift mounting bolts.
-
The stock body mounts have the washers bonded to the rubber, so they
can't be easily re-used.
-
A typical Landcruiser {F,B,H}J-6{0,1,2} body mount kit has 12 body
mount bushings with custom sized bushings as needed as well as FJ-80
models with 10 bushings:
-
Generally your vehicle may have a mix of bushing sizes (and yes we have
tried to find some system to this but just when we think we have it
figured out, along will come a vehicle that is different):
-
2 - 4 of the small sized bushings
-
0 - 6 medium sized (~55mm dia.) bushings
-
And the remainder of 12 large bushings on your {F,B,H}J-6{0,1,/2}
depending on year:
-
Please advise what you need so that proper size bushings can be
supplied.
-
The main issue is that the large size bushings will typically not fit
into the medium sized bushing cups on the frame brackets as they are
approx. 62mm in dia. and the cups are 55mm in diameter.
-
Your vehicle may have bushings with 65mm - 70mm diameters and those
will be replaced with the kit's large diameter bushings.
-
Pictured above (3) you can see a kit with 4 - smaller and 8 larger
bushings (total of 12), your mix of sizes will vary to match your
vehicle.
-
Large bushing: 62mm OD x 16mm ID x 21mm H x 24mm frame bracket hole
-
Medium bushing: 55mm OD x 16mm ID x 21mm H x 24mm frame bracket hole
-
Small bushing: 45mm OD x 16mm ID x 19mm H x 24mm frame bracket hole
-
Lower bushing (all the same size): 42mm OD x 16mm ID x 23mm H
-
Steel sleeve: 16mm OD x 12.5mm ID x 42mm long
-
Note, the above dimensions are measured un-compressed. In the
compressed state, the outer diameters will increase (for example the
62mm OD will increase to 68-70mm) and the height will decrease (for
example the 21mm height will drop to about 19mm) as the bushings are
compressed.
-
Heights also do not include the separate top washer (factory washers
are bonded to the upper bushing half), and that washer is approx. 3mm
(1/8") thick and the diameter of the washer matches the diameter
of the bushing.
-
Note that the medium (55mm) bushings are cut down on a lathe to reduce
the diameter to fit the 55mm dia. frame bracket cut. As such, their
exterior surface will be a rougher finish than the small and large dia,
bushings.
-
It will not affect their operation or durability, but if you want to
have a similar appearance to the non-machined bushings, you could spray
the bushing circumference with a black vinyl paint. That will dry to a
shiny, smooth black finish and be stretchy enough to accommodate the
bushing flexing.
-
The other option is to remove any 55mm cups on the frame brackets (with
a grinder or cut-off saw) and then use large instead of medium sized
bushings.
-
A Mitsubishi Montero has has 8 to 12 body mounts
-
Upper bushing: 60mm OD x 17mm ID x 23mm H x 29mm frame bracket hole
-
Lower bushing: 51mm OD x 17mm ID x 33mm H
-
Steel sleeve (not included): 17mm OD x 12.5mm ID (est) x 50mm long
(est)
-
'89-'95 Toyota Pickup and '95.5-'00 Toyota Tacoma 1-piece body mount
bushings
-
2nd Gen 4Runner ('90-'95) body mount bushing kit, a hybrid kit of 6
1-piece bushings and 4 2-piece bushings.
-
Note the arrangement of the bushing parts, shown front-rear
(left-right) and the thin (1/4") and thick (1/2") spacers, or
with a body lift, the rear most lift blocks will be 1/4" and
1/2" taller than the rest of the blocks, respectively.
-
Bushings and blocks are labeled front to rear with the capital letters: Front, A-pillar, B-pillar,
C-pillar, Rear
-
With stock hardware, you can re-use the existing bolts, but if
purchased with a body lift kit, then the 4 rear most bolts (shown in
the photo but not included in the bushing kit), will need to be 1"
shorter than with the OEM mounts.
-
If you want to replace the body mount bolts along with the bushings,
you can order our 0" (i.e. stock height) hardware kit, see the 4Runner kit page
for details.
-
3rd Gen 4Runner ('96-'00) body mount bushing kit, a hybrid kit or 2
1-piece bushings and 8 2-piece bushings (picture shows combined 1"
body lift and poly bushing kit)
-
With no body lift, you'll have an assortment of thin spacers to make up
height differences between the stock and replacement bushings and with
a body lift, the lift blocks will have differing heights, ranging from
7/16" to 7/8" taller than the ordered kit. Again, this is to
make up for the difference in height between the stock body mount
bushings and the new poly bushings. When installed, the combination of
the shorter poly bushing and the taller block will be the same height
as the stock bushing and shorter block.
-
Bushings and blocks are labeled front to rear with the capital letters: Front, A-pillar, B-pillar,
C-pillar, Rear
-
3rd Gen 4Runner ('01-'02) body mount bushing kit, a hybrid kit or 4
1-piece bushings and 6 2-piece bushings
-
With no body lift, you'll have an assortment of thin spacers to make up
height differences between the stock and replacement bushings and with
a body lift, the lift blocks will have differing heights, ranging from
7/16" to 7/8" taller than the ordered kit. Again, this is to
make up for the difference in height between the stock body mount
bushings and the new poly bushings. When installed, the combination of
the shorter poly bushing and the taller block will be the same height
as the stock bushing and shorter block.
-
Bushings and blocks are labeled front to rear with the capital letters: Front, A-pillar, B-pillar,
C-pillar, Rear
Notes:
-
If you want to change the color of the bushings, you may be able to
paint them after installation.
-
Clean the bushings off with a good solvent, rough up the surface gloss
with some sandpaper and then spray with a vinyl spray paint of the
desired color once they are installed.
-
This can also be done on the bushings that we have to reduce in
diameter, such as the 60-series, 70-series and FJ80 bushings. This can
help to restore the glossy finish lost when trimming the bushing outer
diameter.
-
Alternately, if uniform bushing appearance is a concern, you can always
request unmodified bushings and then you can modify them or modify the
body mount brackets on the vehicle to fit the unmodified bushings. Same
with any bushing hardware that we could otherwise modify. If you are
building a show quality vehicle and want every part to look perfect, by
all means you can get our unmodifed parts and take all the time you
want to modify them in whatever way you wish. We assume customers want
parts that fit a range of vehicle and do the job, so that is what we
focus on.
-
On some of the Toyota Landcruiser bushing kits, we have two options for
the larger diameter bushings.
-
The first option is a one piece top bushing of approx. 62mm OD
(uncompressed).
-
The second option is we can supply a small center bushing with an
enlarging polyurethane ring around the outside that brings the OD up to
about 70mm.
-
Let us know if you have a preference, although we can't guarantee which
style parts we;ll have on hand at a given time.
-
Don't need a full set of bushings? No problem, individual bushings are
available for purchase. Contact
4Crawler Offroad with your requirements...
If you have a vehicle not listed above, that uses 2-piece rubber body
mounts, and would like to see about upgrading to poly urethane, contact
4Crawler Offroad and we'll be happy to work with you to develop a
solution if possible. You'll need to supply detailed dimensions of the
existing bushings, inner and outer diameters, height of upper and lower
halves. Basically we will need the type of information listed in the
prior section regarding the bushing dimensions. For mounts that bolt
onto frame brackets, we'll need to know how the mounts attach to the
frame, how many bolts, what size and spacing, etc. And you can browse
the available bushing kits and sizes listed above to see if there is
something that is close. We can change diameters and heights of the
various bushings listed above to fit other vehicles. But don't despair,
almost all the bushing kits listed above were developed by 4Crawler
Offroad based upon customer input just like requested.
[Return to the top of this page]
Certain vehicles, namely the 1996 Toyota 4Runner, are missing the
B-pillar body mount brackets from the factory. For some reason, the
brackets weren't attached to the frame, although the mounting plates
and holes are present in the floor of the body. Because of the added
stress of a body lift, its important to have all the body mount
locations available for the most support. On other vehicles, the
origial body mount brackets may be damaged by rust or you may need to
install new brackets such as when converting a pickup from one cab
style to another, such as a regular to extra cab.
Below is a picture our new universal body mount bracket options. Our
new brackets will work with frame - body/cab mount bolt spacing of
2-1/2" up to 3-1/2" (63mm - 88mm) or even wider. This
includes Toyota pickup/Hilux cab mount brackets 1979-1995, Toyota
4Runner/Hilux Surf main body mount brackets 1984-2002, Toyota Tacoma
cab mount brackets 1995.5-2004 and T100 pickups.
Measure the distance horizontally from the face of the frame to the
center of where the body or cab mount bolt for sizing. The brackets
feature a long slotted hole to allow the bushing to move in or out to
align with the body or cab mount bolt for a perfect fit, eliminating
the need for precise measurements. Just get within +/- 1/2"
(12.5mm) and that's all you need.
Here's a diagram of a typical
body or cab mount bracket and bushing for reference. Brackets witll
work with or without a body lift installed.
-
Brackets are made of laser cut and formed 3/16" steel plate.
-
Bracket is 3" tall where ist attaches to the frame
-
Width (front-back) is 3-1/4" overall
-
Depth (frame - end of bracket) is just unde 4-1/4"
-
Top hole is 1" diameter and 2" long, sized to fit a bushing
with a 1" dia. raised center lip.
For deeper applications, a thicker plate can be welded to the back side
of the bracket. For example adding a 1/2" plate to the back side
will fit up to a 4" frame - bolt spacing, or you can add a
1/4" fishplate to the frame and 1/4" plate to the bracket for
a 1/2" deeper bracket. With any of these size modifications, you
won't need any precision cut material, just standard width steel flat
bar available at most hardware stores will do.
Also possible to weld on 1", 1.5" or 2" wide extensions
to the back side of the bracket for even wider applications. See the
YouTube video below for a Dodge Durango bracket where 2" wide flat
bar was added to the back side of the bracket and then a bolt-on plate
added onto that to fit a 5" frame - cab mount distance:
Likewise, if you needed a bracket that is 4" or 5" wide to
fit a larger diameter bushing, the vertical sides could be cut off and
a 1/2" or 1" wide flat bar welded in place on each side to
widen the bracket accordingly.
They'll fit body mount bushings that have a 1" dia. raised center
lip. They are available in a weld-on (left in image below) and a
bolt-on (rght in image below) version. The bolt-on version comes with
self-tapping screws for attaching the bracket to the frame. The bolt-on
version will require a flat area of frame to mount to, so any old
bracket would need to be completely removed. The weld-on bracket would
onlys need clean, flat steel around the outside for welding. It can
also be welded onto a wider bracket, such as under the A-pillar.
 |
Body Mount Bracket Kit |
This kit can be used with or without a body lift. Brackets are
available in single units, so order 2 if you want one for each side of
the frame. Also available with our round polyurethane bushings. If you
are replacing a bracket with bushings that bolt in place, you'll need
to order the version with new bushings. We have bushings available in a
45mm, 62mm and 70mm dia.) The default bushing diameter is 62mm, same
price for the 45mm bshing, add $7.50/bushing for the 70mm diameter
version. Add $2.00/bushing for a heavy duty bottom washer (1/8"
thick x 2" diameter) if you want to replace the original bottom
washer from your old body mount bushing. Bushings can accomodate up to
1/2" diameter bolts. They come set up with 3/8" dia. holes in
the washers and you can drill these larger if needed.
Pricing:
-
Weld-on:
-
Bare bracket - US$25.00
-
Bracket with poly body mount bushing, sleeve and top washer: US$37.50
-
In stock and can ship with a day or two.
-
Bolt-on:
-
Bracket with 2 self-tapping mounting screws - US$35.00
-
Bracket with poly body mount bushing, sleeve and top washer: US$47.50
-
For added width, we can weld on 1", 1.5" or 2" wide
extensions between the bracket and mounting plate for applications with
a wider frame-mount bolt spacing.
-
E.g. a 1" extension moves the bracket out to fit 3.5" -
4.5" frame to mount bolt spacing.
-
Add US$32.50/bracket for the added width.
-
Painting:
-
Add $2.50/bracket for a primer coat and $5.00 for primer + black enamel
-
Or you can finish the brackets as you desired.
-
Bolt-on brackets come with 2 - 3/8" self tapping bolts and 3
pre-drilled mounting holes
-
Add $2.00 for an additional self-tapping bolt if you want to use all 3
holes
-
Allow 1-2 weeks fabrication time
-
New polyurethane bushings.
-
We have 3 sizes of bushing available
-
Small 1-3/4" / 45mm dia.,
-
Large 2-1/2" / 62mm dia.
-
Extra large 2-3/4" / 70mm dia, add US$5.00 for each extra large
bushing
-
All are ~3/4" (19mm) tall (above the bracket), 92A durometer
polyurethane with a 1/8" (3mm) thick top washer
-
Additional hardware:
-
New body mount bolt/nut, US$6.00 SAE size or $7.50 metric
-
You should be able to re-use your existing body mount bolt as long as
it's 1/2" or smaller diameter
-
Can supply new hardware: 3/8", 10mm, 7/16", 12mm or 1/2"
bolts up to 6"/150mm long
-
New bottom washer: US$2.00/ea.
-
Shipping and ordering options
-
Up to 4 brackets + bushings can ship for the medium flat rate box
postage in the US or Internationally.
For bolt-on installation, you'll need to grind the frame flat over
about a 3" x 3" square area and have sufficient frame wall
thickness (at least 1/8" or 3mm) for the self-tapping bolts. One
option with the bolt-on bracket is you can do the grinding and bolting
of the bracket to the frame with simple home tools. Then you could
drive to a welding shop and have them run a bead around the bracket to
permanently attach it to the frame. This would save a lot of the
installation cost that a shop would charge for the full install.
The weld-on bracket only requires clearing the frame in the area where
you'll be welding the bracket to. It also works well if you find you
need to fish plate the frame rail to repair rust-thinned metal there.
Do that then weld the bracket in place. The weld-on bracket is also
good if you need to customize it by adding additonal material to space
it out from the frame.
Contact us for custom applications and shipping details: sales@4Crawler.com
[Return to the top of this page]
Most (if not all) commercial body lift kits we've looked at use a
"one size fits all" approach. You get one diameter of lift
block (usually 2" OD) and that is to be used in all body mount
locations. If you are a bit confused about the difference between the
Standard and Ultimate body lift blocks, below are various combinations
(of lift blocks - white UHMW or aluminum) installed on actual Toyota
body mount bushings (the black rubber things) so you can see the
differences:
 |
 |
A. 2-piece body mounts |
B. Ultimate Lift Blocks |
 |
 |
C. Aluminum vs. UHMW |
D. Aluminum Lift Blocks |
-
Photo A is an example of the 2-piece body mounts common in '79-'88
pickups and '84-'89 4Runners (i.e. 1st generation). The smaller mount
is found under the radiator support, the larger mount is used for the
rest of the cab/body, 4 in a pickup, 8 in a 4Runner.
-
On top, from left to right, are a 2" dia. aluminum block, a
2" UHMW block, and a 2-1/2" UHMW block.
-
Photo B, shows how the the Ultimate blocks match the diameter of the
stock body mounts.
-
Photos C and D show the 2" dia. aluminum blocks compare to the
2" dia. of the UHMW blocks
-
The UHMW material is slightly over nominal size
 |
 |
E. 1-piece body mount
'89+ pickup/Tacoma
w/ the various lift blocks |
F. 2" aluminum block |
 |
 |
G. 2" UHMW block |
H. 2-1/2" UHMW block |
While a few eighths of an inch doesn't sound like a big deal, the
difference in area is dramatic, the 2" UHMW block has nearly 27%
more surface area than an actual 2" block and the 2-1/2" UHMW
block has nearly 80% more surface area. Surface area equates directly
to pressure on the floor of the cab/body of the vehicle. Many
aftermarket body lift kits only supply 2" dia. blocks which are
probably sufficient for on-road and mild off-road use, but for extreme
off-road service, you need all the surface area you can get, or
something like this can happen (image I below):
 |
 |
I: Problem with too-small lift block |
J: Larger Diameter Block |
So if larger blocks are better, why stop at 2.5"? A few reasons
not to use larger blocks:
-
Certain body mount locations are fairly constrained and a larger block
simply won't fit
-
In fact in image J above, observe how a larger block would have trouble
resting flat against the cab floor due to the curve of the sheet metal
-
The body mount bushing and reinforced pad on the body are only so
large. Having excess block material hanging over the edge provides no
added benefit
-
Larger blocks use more material and cost more money, so best to use a
block that approximates the size of the body mount
On some vehicles, we do offer a Mega lift block option. The Mega blocks
are typically 3" to 3.5" in diameter for those vehicles where
the body mount bushings are that large and the owner wants to use a
block that more closely matches the diameter of the bushing. Examples
of vehicle with the Mega blocks are the later model FJ Cruisers, some
4th generation 4Runners and of course the Kia Sportage where we only
offer that size.
Bottom Line: The Ultimate blocks simply are larger in diameter
to more closely match size of the existing body mount bushings, the
Mega blocks are even larger while the standard blocks are all the same
(smaller) diameter.
[Return to the top of this page]
The UHMW material comes in a natural white color, as shown in the
section above. As a material, it is somewhat similar to Teflon in that
it is very stain-resistant and most dyes and paints will not stick.
4Crawler Offroad has developed a process by which a colored coating is
applied to the visible parts of the block, for those wishing a color
other than white. This process is available at an additional cost and
is currently available in flat black. Click
here to see an image of a colored 1" tall block . This is
specified by ordering the CLR kit option. If the block
coloring is slightly scratched during shipment or installation, it is
easy to touch up with a flat color spray paint. The
coloring process also affords UV light protection for blocks that may
be exposed to direct sunlight. Generally, however, the body lift
blocks are not visible or exposed to direct sunlight. But you can make
that decision for yourself, examine your vehicle and look for the body
mount brackets and bushings and decide if you'll be able to see the
lift block sitting on top of that bushing.
NEW: By popular demand, we now have a limited supply of solid black
UHMW material in the 2" and 2.5" diameters. If we have this
on-hand, we'll try to use it for your body lift blocks when ordered in
the black color (CLR option).
If you want a color other than black or white, the cost is twice the
cost of the black color, so add qty. 2 - CLR kit options and
specify the color desired in the order. Alternately you can order the CLR
option and ask us not to paint the blocks, but the surface prep will
be done so you can apply your own paint.
For all pre-painted (CLR) lift blocks, you may notice some minor
paint loss during shipping. It is easy enough for the blocks to be
touched up before or after installing with some inexpensive spray
enamel paint. It is probably best to touch up the blocks after
installation as you may scrape and scratch them during installation.
You can also apply an undercoating spray to the blocks if you wish as
that is the type of coating applied at the factory under most vehicles,
so if you are looking to blend the lift blocks in to the rest of the
underside of the vehicle, that is another option.
Of course, the 1" tall aluminum blocks are natural aluminum color.
You may paint, powder coat or anodize them to your color preference.
[back to the top]
Mounting hardware is offered in both a standard and over size and also
in standard and heavy duty grade (see bottom of this section for more
information on the standard size, heavy duty grade hardware).
-
Standard Grade, Standard Size hardware:
-
is designed to fit all the stock washers, bushings, etc. as-is, without
need for modification. It is also of equal strength to the stock
hardware (SAE Grade 5 ~ Metric Grade 8.8). The hardware kit cost varies
depending on application. Standard grade hardware is approx. 115,000 -
120,000 psi tensile strength.
-
Standard Grade, Oversize hardware:
-
The larger heavy duty hardware, is designed to be the maximum size and
strength that can be installed in the vehicle without requiring major
modifications. It may require re-drilling holes in some of the stock
body mount washers (see
installation instructions), but in the case of the pressed on
tabbed washers, the oversize bolts have the larger diameter of the
factory bolts under the head where they are enlarged for the press fit
washer, so the old washers will often press fit back onto the new body
mount bolts like stock. This option is only available on the early
Toyota pickups and 4Runners and on some Tacoma models. Bottom Line: If
you lack the ability and/or tools to drill holes (7/16" or 12mm or
1/2") dia. in steel washers, then go with the standard size
hardware, or see below for other hardware options.. With the larger
surface area, the oversize hardware is approx. 35% stronger than the
standard size hardware (assuming a 7/16" vs. a 10mm dia. bolt with
similar metallic strengths). For for vehicles with 10mm stock size h/w,
you can request the HD hardware option and advise us that you would
like the oversized hardware standard grade in place of the standard
size heavy duty grade.
-
On the 4th generation 4Runner and FJ Cruiser body lift kits, this is
the default hardware option, with the stock size hardware being 12mm
and the oversize hardware is 12% stronger at 1/2" and the standard
size hardware is 7/16".
-
Heavy Duty Grade Hardware (HD kit option)
-
Another option for upgraded hardware is using standard size, heavy duty
grade (Grade 8) bolts, or in the case of the 4th generation 4Runner and
FJ Cruiser kits, you also have the option of both standard size and
oversize heavy duty hardware. This option adds approx. $15 to the cost
of the hardware kit and includes Grade 8 bolts for all the cab/body
mounts. You can specify the type of hardware you desire at the time of
ordering. With the standard size Grade 8 hardware, no modification to
the stock body mount hardware is required. This option, listed as kit
HD, can be specified on almost all the body lift kits. This option is
generally recommended on lifts of 2" and higher, This option is
available for all applications that list the HD option in the kit.
Heavy duty grade hardware is made from an alloy steel that is tempered
for approx. 150,000 psi tensile strength and is in the range of 25% -
30% stronger than stock.
-
We typically supply a heat treated Grade 5 lock nut with the HD bolts.
Since body mount bolts are not torqued down to a high pre-load, the
hardened Grade 5 nuts offer more than enough clamping strength. The
only visible difference will be the color, the nuts will be a silver
colored zinc plate finish while the bolts will be a yellow zinc
chromate finish.
-
If you want to have matching colors or must have Grade 8 nuts with the
Grade 8 bolts, add the HDnuts kit item to your order, along
with the HD (bolts) option. We don't list this in each lift
kit pricing table, but the kit option and price should apply to all the
lift kits that use bolts and nuts and offer an HD option.
Note that with metric hardware, this is not an option. Likewise on
pickup kits, the nuts on the bed bolts are not upgradeable and on the
Tacoma models, the bed hardware is metric only and the nuts are
typically part of the bed or frame and are re-used.
-
If you don't want to re-use your factory bushing bottom washers or want
an upgraded bottom wahser, we offer the HDwash
kit item. This adds hardened, oversized wahsers for the bottom of all
the body mount bolts. Think of a fender washer (large diameter washer
with a smaller hole in the center), but way thicker and made of
hardened steel. This option works well if you are installing poly body
mount bushings and your original rubber bushings have the bottom
washers bonded to the rubber bushing.
-
Standard Size, Stainless Steel Hardware (SS kit option):
-
Available for certain applications is a marine grade 316 alloy
stainless steel hardware kit (316 alloy is highly resistant to salt
corrosion). This option adds approx. $30-40 to the cost of hardware kit
Stainless steel offers superior corrosion resistance over the zinc
plated steel used in the standard and heavy duty hardware options.
Stainless steel hardware is available by special order. One draw back
of stainless steel is that it is only about 85,000 psi tensile
strength. But if rust is a big issue for you, the world's strongest
steel will lose strength rapidly as it rusts away, while stainless
steel "takes a licking but keeps on ticking" to quote a
popular watch commercial. And while there are higher grade stainless
steel alloys available, they are very expensive and very hard to find
on the extremely long lengths needed for body lift applications. If
you opt for the SS hardware upgrade, be sure to use an
anti-seize compound on the bolt threads prior to installing the nut.
Stainless steel threaded fasteners are prone to galling when tightened
and if you ever want to take the nut off the bolt in the future, the
anti-seize compound will ensure the nut comes off without trouble.
-
Pickup and Tacoma lift kits don't list SS hardware options,
but we can supply SS hardware for the cab mounting bolts if
desired. We are unable to source the long, extra fine threaded
stainless hardware required for the bed bolts on these vehicles.
Inquire for pricing and availability.
-
The SS kit option upgrades both the nuts and bolts to
stainless steel.
-
If you also wish to have stainless steel bottom washers, you can add
the SSwash kit option for an additional cost of US$20.00/kit
to add or upgrade the washers on the bottoms of the body mount bolts to
stainless steel. Note that this option is not listed on the regular kit
pricing tables, but if a kit offers an SS hardware option,
you can add the SSwash kit item to get stainless steel
washers along with the stainless steel bolts/nuts. Otherwise, kits will
either include zinc plated bottom washers for those kits that require
washers, or you will re-use the existing bottom washers on those
vehicles that have re-useable washers.
-
Same size as stock metric hardware (MET kit option):
-
Certain lift kits offer a metric body mount hardware option This option
is for folks who want to retain all metric hardware on their vehicle,
Although depending on bolt and nut availability, the thread pitch and
head size may vary from stock, as it is very difficult to find some
metric thread pitches in the extra long bolts needed for a body lift.
And note that long metric bolts are fairly expensive here in the US,
thus the added cost of that option. Metric Class 8.8 hardware (which is
what is offered in the MET option) typically runs about 116,000 psi
tensile strength, so about the same as SAE Grade 5. While there are
stronger classes of metric hardware (such as 10.9 and higher), they are
very hard to find in the US, and especially in the extremely long
lengths needed for body lift applications.
-
So which hardware option does 4Crawler Offroad recommend?
-
If low cost is important, get the standard grade hardware, this is the
default
-
If ease of installation is important, specify the standard size
hardware with your order
-
If maximum strength and ruggedness is important, get the heavy duty
hardware kit upgrade (HD), if available
-
If corrosion resistance is important, get the stainless steel hardware
kit upgrade (SS), if available
-
If you prefer to have metric hardware, get the metric hardware kit
upgrade (MET), if available
And of course, you can also supply your own hardware, if you want all
metric or something even larger or heavy duty stainless steel, it is
your choice. Just let us know what diameter bolts you plan on using so
the blocks can be pre-drilled to fit.
And finally, why are the above hardware options "mutually
exclusive"? That is why can't I order Heavy Duty Stainless Steel
Metric hardware? Well, several reasons. If you look at the
"universe" of bolts available, you can get most anything as
long as you don't care what you are getting. But as you start narrowing
down the bolt specifications, you'll find that "universe"
rapidly collapses. Body lifts inherently need long bolts. Why? Well
vehicle manufactures are using body mount bolts upwards of
6"/150mm long in stock form and by the nature of a body lift, the
bolts have to be longer than stock, so up to 8"-9" long in
some cases. Length is one factor that limits bolt availability as does
size, since body mount bolts tend to be in the 3/8"-1/2"
size. Then start tacking on things like Grade 5 or Grade 8 and the
selection of bolts falls off, but ask for stainless steel or (at least
in the US) metric, and your choices are very limited. And this is just
using one choice or grade/size, but start combining them and you can
just about write off any chance of finding an off-the-shelf bolt. And
in fact you'll find that some some lift kit applications, certain
options are only available up to a certain lift height or on certain
vehicles. This is typically due to length issues, above a certain bolt
length, that combination of bolt specifications is not economically
available, so will be marked "n/a" (or Not Available).
Sure, you can get something custom made or from a specialty supplier,
but the cost in small quantities is very high. For example, look at an
engine head stud kit, they use high strength alloys (190,000 psi is
common) but you are looking at $15-$20 per stud and nut for that
hardware. Multiply that by 10-14 bolts needed for a body lift and you
get the idea.
And while in certain cases, some combination of hardware options might
be available, there is the cost of sourcing and stocking that rarely
ordered hardware option in all the lengths and diameters needed, not to
mention the space used to store that hardware is prohibitive for
something that might only be ordered once every year or two. For
example, we only ship a few kits a year w/ the stainless steel hardware
and even less with metric hardware.
[back to the top]
Manual transmissions and transfer cases have shift levers that are
attached to the transmission (or transfer case) and extend up into the
passenger compartment for access. Since the transmission or transfer
case is attached to the frame, when the body is lifted, the shift lever
"sinks" into the floor of the vehicle. With a 1" lift,
this would probably not even be noticed. On a 2" - 3" lift,
it probably is noticeable. The shifter(s) will still work like normal,
given you address any clearance issues with the floor
penetration/shifter boot(s). Most people have no issue with the lowered
shift levers, you usually adjust to the change in a few days of
driving. However, some folks find this situation bothersome. They are
used to reaching out for the shifter and don't find it where it used to
be, or they find they are missing shifts, etc. So, if you fall into the
latter group, by all means, extend the shifter(s).
-
One option is to cut the shift lever off near the base and have a
section of 1/2" dia. steel rod welded in to lengthen the shifter.
This consists of one or more lengths of 1/2" steel rod, available
in 2" and 3" lengths. Cost is $3.50/ea. plus shipping.
Installation requires cutting the shifter down near the pivot point
(where it is ~1/2" in dia.) and welding in the rod to lengthen the
shifter. When doing this, you also have the option of angling the
shifter in a different direction if that helps with shifter clearance. Click here for a picture of a
pair of 2" weld-in extensions.
-
Another option is an extension that can be added to the top of the
shift lever. As such, the extension will have an internal thread to
match the end of the shifter and an external thread to accept the
shifter lnob to be re-installed on top. Note that this extension will
only work on shifters that have a screwed on shift knob and only on
ones without any sort of switch or actuator on the knob. Also note that
this extension will typically not help reduce shifter binding at the
floor penetration due to a body lift, it will only raise the shifter
knob up higher.
When deciding to extend the sifter(s), you can decide if you want to du
just the transmission or the transfer case shifter(s) as well. All can
typically be extended, but realize you will be using the transmission
shifter many, many times each time you drive the truck, so extending
this shifter gives the best "bang for the buck". The transfer
case shifter(s) are typically not used that much, unless you take your
truck off-road every day. And even if you do, how often do you find you
are shifting the transfer case gears. So there is much less benefit to
extending those shifter(s), but you can if you want to.
So bottom line is if having lowered shifters, due to a body lift, will
bother you, by all means extend them. If it does not bother you, by all
means leave them as-is. After all, there are no "shifter
police" that will be pulling you over on the road to check the
height of the shifters :)
We now offer a selection of thread sizes for different vehicles. Toyota
mainly uses M12x1.25 (12mm dia. and 1.25mm extra fine thread pitch) up
until the 2nd generation Tacoma pickups that seem to use M8x1.25, as
does the Kia Sportage. M10x1.25 seemes to be used on the Mitibishi
Montero/Pajero vehicles. Many European vehicles use M12x1.50 thread.
-
Conversions:
-
8mm is ~5/16", 10mm is ~3/8" and 12mm is ~1/2"
-
1.25mm thread pitch is ~20 TPI (threads per inch), 1.50mm is ~16 TPI
Best to check which thread size you need by unscrewing the shifter knob
and checking. You can use a bolt or nut of known diameter and thread
pitch to check if you're uncomfortable measuring.
 |
 |
3" Extension (top)
2" Extension (bottom) |
Shifter Extension Installed |
-
1.5" Shifter Extension (ToyMT_SL1.5): US$20.00 + shipping
-
2" Shifter Extension (ToyMT_SL2): US$20.00 + shipping
-
3" Shifter Extension (ToyMT_SL3): US$25.00 + shipping
-
US First Class postage: US$4.95
-
Internation First Class postage: US$18.95
Order a 2" Shift Lever Extension w/ US shipping |
Order a 3" Shift Lever Extension w/ US shipping |
|
|
Order a 2" Shift Lever Extension w/ Int'l shipping |
Order a 3" Shift Lever Extension w/ Int'l shipping |
|
|
Order a 2" Shift Lever Extension
add on to existing body lift kit order |
Order a 3" Shift Lever Extension
add on to existing body lift kit order |
|
|
One extension will be needed for each shift lever that you want to
lengthen. The extension length is measured along the smooth section,
with an extra inch being threaded to accept the shifter knob. A
shipping charge is added automatically with the ordering buttons above
for Priority Mail delivery, please be sure to provide a VALID mailing
address and international orders, provide a local telephone number for
customs paperwork.
One issue that shift levers can cause with body lifts is that as the
shifter "sinks" into the floor, the distance from the lever's
pivot point to the floor penetration is increased. This means that the
shift lever sweeps out a wider arc in the various gear selection
positions. Enlarging the hole in the floor is one option or bending the
base of the shift lever is another option. A simple extension, while it
makes the shift lever longer, will not help alleviate the clearance
issues at the shifter boot. A better option to both extend the shifter
and to shorten its throw is a short shift kit. Here is a short throw kit that bolts
onto the Toyota transfer case shifters.
A second issue that may crop up on manual transmission Toyota trucks is
the flex hose for the hydraulic clutch where it drops down from the
firewall to the clutch slave cylinder. In stock form, on the '84-'95
pickups and 4Runners, the flex hose is usually good for a 2" body
lift, but at 3" it may be pulled a little too tight.
-
One option is to relocate the lower end of the hard line closer to the
slave cylinder.
-
A second option is to replace that hose with a stock front brake flex
line that is typically about 2" longer. This option is good if you
have replaced the stock rubber brake hoses with flexible s/s hoses and
have your old brake hoses laying around.
-
A third option is to replace the stock rubber clutch hose with a longer
braided stainless steel (s/s) line. This option is good if your old
hose (clutch or brake) is old and cracked and you do not want to reuse
it.
Pictured below (bottom to top) are the stock rubber clutch flex hose
(approx. 10.5" long end-end) and a plain s/s flex hose and a s/s
flex hose with polyolefin cladding over the s/s braid for added
longevity. Both the s/s hoses are approx. 14" long, so 3.5"
longer than stock to allow for more lift and flex between the
engine/transmission and the body/frame.
 |
Clutch Hose options |
Order a replacement s/s clutch hose below:
-
Bare s/s hose (ToyBareSSHose): US$40.00 + shipping
-
Clad s/s hose (ToyCladSSHose): US$50.00 + shipping
-
US Priority Mail Delivery: $8.40
-
International shipping: US$18.95
Bare s/s hose
US Delivery |
Clad s/s hose
US Delivery |
|
|
Bare s/s hose
Int'l. Delivery |
Clad s/s hose
Int'l. Delivery |
|
|
Bare s/s hose
add on to existing body lift kit order |
Clad s/s hose
add on to existing body lift kit order |
|
|
[back to the top]
Most Toyota 4WD body lift kits would not work on vehicles with
automatic transmissions. The A/T shift linkage on most Toyota 4WD
pickups and 4Runner (up through 1995) consists of two main parts, the
transmission shift lever and the transfer case shift lever. The
transmission lever is adjustable and can handle up to a 3" body
lift with simple adjustments. There are two types of 4WD, or transfer
case, shifters. The most common type is an external linkage, on the
other hand will only work up to about a 1" body lift without
modifications. Above 1", a bracket is required that lifts the
transfer case shift lever up so that body lifts in the 2" to
3" range can now be done on A/T equipped Toyota 4WD vehicles. A
less common type of transfer case shifter goes directly into the
transfer case, just like a manual transmission setup (see above
section) and this bracket setup is not needed. You should examine your
transmission/transfer case linkage to verify which type you have before
ordering and installing a body lift lit.
The table below lists some typical vehicle applications for which body
lift kits are available and whether that application will require
brackets for the automatic transmission linkage. Note that "Y"
indicates a bracket kit is required to install the body lift and "N"
means that one is not needed, although some linkage adjustments will
typically be required:
A/T Bracket Requirements
Application |
1" Lift |
2" Lift |
3" Lift |
'79-'88 Toyota Pickup |
N |
Y |
Y |
'84-'89 Toyota 4Runner |
N |
Y |
Y |
'89-'95 Toyota Pickup |
N |
Y |
Y |
'96 and later Hilux, gas engines |
N |
Y |
Y |
'90-'95 Toyota 4Runner |
N |
Y |
Y |
'96 and later Hilux Surf, gas engines |
N |
Y |
Y |
T-100 |
N |
Y |
Y |
'95-'04 Toyota Tacoma (US) |
N |
N |
N |
''96-'02 Toyota 4Runner (US) |
N |
N |
N |
'03-'xx Toyota 4Runner |
N |
n/a |
n/a |
FJ Cruiser |
N |
n/a |
n/a |
'05-'xx Tacoma |
N |
N |
n/a |
Tundra |
N |
N |
N |
Toyota {F,B,H}J-6{0,1,2} Landcruiser |
N |
N |
N |
Mitsubishi Montero |
N |
N |
N |
 |
 |
 |
A/T T-case Shift Lever Bracket |
Bracket Install Location(s) |
A/T Shifter Bracket & Linkage Extension
Installed |
The bracket is fabricated from heavy gauge steel and includes new
mounting bolts to attach the lower bracket to it, the existing hardware
is then used to attach the bracket to the stock location (circled in red in the above-right image). The A/T
linkage extension is a bolt-on extension for the upper shift linkage (circled in green in the above-right image) to
prevent binding in the 2H position. Also available for customers who
have another A/T shifter bracket, the A/T linkage extension is
available separately (this is the square piece in the A/T bracket kit).
The linkage extension is useful in those situations where you "run
out" of adjustment in the stock shift linkage. The extension
allows you to raise the shift linkage attachment point up to minimize
the effect of the body lift. And on the 2WD pickups and 4Runners, this
linkage bracket may be the only bracket you need since your truck lacks
the transfer case shifter. Again this linkage extension is typically
needed at a 3" lift and optional at 2" lift.
We have redesigned the A/T shifter kits so that all parts can be used
on 2" and 3" lifts interchangeably. So while most folks
typically only need the A/T shift lever bracket at 2", you can
install the A/T linkage extension if you wish. Likewise, while most
folks typically need both the bracket and linkage extension at 3",
some only need the shift lever bracket, so you can now mix and match
the parts as you wish. Consult the installation instructions
for more details.
The A/T shift lever bracket is priced at $45 (typically for use on
2" lifts) or the full bracket plus linkage extension kit for $55
(typically for use on 3" lifts). If you have another brand body
lift that does not include the A/T linkage brackets, this is the kit
for you. A 2" or 3" lift is a 2" or 3" lift no
matter what brand lift kit is used. Also you can use either the bracket
or linkage extension on either a 2" or 3" lift.
A shipping charge is added automatically with the ordering buttons
below for Priority Mail delivery, please be sure to provide a VALID
mailing address and international orders, provide a local telephone
number for customs paperwork.. Before ordering these bracket kits, see
the important notes below:
Notes:
-
A shipping charge added automatically with the ordering buttons above
for Priority Mail (within the US) or Priority Mail International
(outside the US), please be sure to provide a VALID mailing address and
international orders, provide a local telephone number for customs
paperwork.
-
You should make sure you have a linkage-style transfer case shifter.
Some A/T-equipped trucks have transfer case shifters that go directly
into the transfer case, just like a manual transmission truck has. If
this is the case, then do not order this adapter/bracket, IT WILL NOT
WORK FOR YOU. Other options are to extend
the transfer case shift lever, or convert it to a short throw setup.
-
For the Tacoma ('95.5 onwards) and 3rd. gen 4Runner ('96-'02)
applications, the shift linkage only requires adjustment, no bracket is
needed.
[back to the top]
 |
 |
A: Steering shaft disassembled |
B: Steering shaft extended |
 |
 |
C: Recirc.Ball vs. Rack&Pinion |
D: 4th Gen 4Runner/Tacoma |
Pictured above are a selection of our 1" (25mm) nominal spacers.
We have taller versions up to 3" (75mm) nominal and they are the
same design, differeing only in height.
Many vehicles use a rubber "rag joint" in the steering shaft
to help dampen out road vibrations in the steering wheel. It is used to
joint two sections of the steering shaft via a round rubber disc. One
section of shaft is attached to the rubber disc via a pair of studs.
The other end of the shaft is attached via a pair of bolts or rivets.
The attaching flange has two slots that fit around the studs. These
slots allow the studs to move around as the rubber twists under load
and vibration. Before the rubber can twist too far, the studs make
contact with the side of the slots.
Our spacers are designed to fit over the studs with over sized holes
allowing the studs freedom of movement. The spacer is bolted to the
other side of the steering shaft. This way it extends the function of
the slots. Many vehicles use a similar style rag joint, including
Toyota, Isuzu, etc. To check if your vehicle has a silimar rag joint,
the rubber disc is approx. 3" (75mm) in diameter and the holes are
on a 2-1/8" (55mm) diameter bolt circle. Bolt size is 5/16"
(8mm) and the slots for the studs are appox. 3/4" (19mm) across.
The spacers are machined from billet 6061-T6 aluminum alloy for
strength and come with a pair of longer bolts and lock nuts to replace
the original bolts.
Toyota vehicles with rack and pinion steering typically use a nearly
vertical steering shaft that runs from the steering column penetration
of the firewall to the steering rack mounted on the frame. Since the
shaft is vertical, it is directly affected by a body lift. There is
some amount of adjustment at the lower clamp, sometimes and inch or
more of excess shaft is inside the clamp. However, it is difficult to
ascertain the amount of spline remaining inside the clamp without
removing the steering shaft. At the base of the steering shaft is the
"rag joint", that allows for slight misalignment and also
helps to absorb jolts from the road. It is possible to slightly extend
the length of the shaft with washers on top of the rag joint. Beyond
about 1/2" and the stop bolts on the rag joint will slip past the
slots on the steering shaft and this would leave the rag joint
unsupported and subject to damage. Therefore, an extension of some is
required. In the above images, you can see the rag joint disassembled
and the extension that slips over the stop bolts and is then bolted in
between the rag joint and steering shaft. Due to the angle of the
steering shaft, the spacer can be a bit less than the amount of body
lift, for example, for a 3" lift, the spacer is 2.5" tall. In
our experienhce, it's much easier to pull the male spline out of the
upper shaft clamp a little bit, if needed, then it is to push the male
spline farther into the clamp. This is becuase the female splines
farther up in the pinch clamp are often rusty or dirty and would
require dissembline the clamp to clean out the splines. The table below
lists some typical vehicle applications for which body lift kits are
available and whether that application will require extensions for the
steering shaft. Note that "Y" indicates an extension
is likely required to install the body lift and "N"
means that one is likely not needed, although some
adjustment of the steering shaft may be required (click here for
details). On certain models, Toyota changed from the recirculating
ball steering box to a rack and pinion type steering around 1995-6 time
frame. The vehicles listed in Bold/Italic represent the rack
and pinion type steering extensions, vs. the other vehicles
that use the recirculating ball steering box. Easy to check which type
of steering you have. The recirculating ball steering box will be
attached to the outside of the frame, up in front of the front axle on
the driver's side. The rack and pinion steering is located in the
center of the vehicle, down low on the firewall behind the front axle.
So be sure and check your vehicle to see which type of steering you
have before ordering an extension.
Steering Shaft Extension Requirements
Application |
1" Lift |
1.5" Lift |
2" Lift |
3" Lift |
'79-'88 Toyota Pickup / Hilux |
N |
N |
N* |
N* |
'84-'89 Toyota 4Runner / Hilux Surf- 1st gen |
N |
N |
N* |
N* |
'89-'95 Toyota Pickup / Hilux |
N |
N |
N* |
Y/1" |
'90-'95 Toyota 4Runner / Hilux Surf- 2nd gen |
N |
N |
N* |
Y/1" |
'96 and later Hilux / Hilux Surf |
N |
N |
N* |
Y/1" |
'95-'04 Toyota Tacoma |
Y/1" |
Y/1.5" |
Y/2" |
Y/3" |
'05-'xx Toyota Tacoma |
N* |
Y |
Y* |
n/a |
'96-'02 Toyota 4Runner - 3rd gen |
Y/1" |
Y/1.5" |
Y/2" |
Y/3" |
'03-'xx Toyota 4Runner - 4th gen |
N* |
Y |
n/a |
n/a |
FJ Cruiser |
N* |
Y |
n/a |
n/a |
Toyota {F,B,H}J-6{0,1,2} Landcruiser |
N |
N |
N |
N |
Toyota FJ80, Lexus LX-450 |
N |
N |
N* |
Y |
Tundra |
Y** |
Y** |
Y** |
n/a |
Mitsubishi Montero |
N |
N |
N |
N |
Isuzu Rodeo |
N |
N |
Y* |
Y* |
-
N* Extension not needed but 1" extension can be installed
if desired
-
N Means an extension is not needed
-
n/a Means a steering extension for that lift height is not available
-
Y or Y/x" Means that an extension is needed and if so, what height
-
Y* Means that an extension is needed and it needs to be custom extra
tall version
- '96 and later Hilux / Hilux Surf imply non-US
models which are closer to the '95 and earlier US models
-
Y** For Tundra models:
-
With a bolted steering rag joint can use the same rack and pinion
extension as the 1st gen Tacoma picjups use
-
For a riveted steering rag joint, we can make custom steering shaft
extensions,
inquire for pricing
The 1" lift rack&pinion extension (pictured right in image
"C" above) is priced at $30.00 for use with existing
body lifts. Extensions for 1.5", 2" and 3" lifts are
available for use on existing body lifts as well. On Tacoma 4WD pickups
with 4" ProComp lifts, steering extension beyond 5/8" tall
may not clear the steering rack drop bracket.
Use the convenient on-line ordering buttons below to order stand-alone
steering shaft extensions for use with your existing body lift: (if
ordering with a 4Crawler body lift kit, do not order below, contact
4Crawler Offroad for a kit discount). A shipping charge is added
automatically with the ordering buttons below for Priority Mail
delivery, please be sure to provide a VALID mailing address and
international orders, provide a local telephone number for customs
paperwork. Order the steering extension designed for the type of
steering:
-
1": US$30.00 - for 1" body lift applications, p/n: TRP_1EX -
In stock
-
1.5" US$40.00 - for 1.5" body lift applications, p/n:
TRP_1.5EX - In stock
-
Physical height = 1-5/16"
-
2": US$40.00 - for 2" body lift applications, p/n: TRP_2EX -
In stock
-
3": US$50.00 - for 3" body lift applications, p/n: TRP_3EX -
In stock
-
Shipping:
---
1" Lift Rack&Pinion
Steering Extension: |
1.5" Lift Rack&Pinion
Steering Extension: |
2" Lift Rack&Pinion
Steering Extension: |
3" Lift Rack&Pinion
Steering Extension: |
US Priority Mail Delivery |
US Priority Mail Delivery |
US Priority Mail Delivery |
US Priority Mail Delivery |
~~~~~ |
~~~~~ |
~~~~~ |
~~~~~ |
International Delivery |
International Delivery |
International Delivery |
International Delivery |
Extensions over ~2.5" tall will not fit un-lifted rack&pinion
vehicles due to rag joint / frame interference, but this is tall enough
for a 3" body lift, due to the angle of the steering shaft. These
extensions can also be combined with upper spline extensions used in
other lift kits, such as what PA supplies, or it can be used to replace
the problematic and breakage-prone spline extensions. Also note that on
Tacoma Pickups with Edelbrock headers, you may be restricted to about a
1" tall spacer, due to header/rag joint clearance issues.

1" spacer shown, 1.5" and 2" look similar, only taller
For recirculating ball steering (pictured left in image "C"
above), generally the steering shaft is extendable (and collapsible for
crash safety). But if you can't extend the shaft, a similar bolt-in rag
joint spacer is available. Since the steering shaft is at an angle, you
usually only need extensions over 2" of lift and then only at 1/2
the amount of lift. For example a 1" spacer (3/4" actual
height) should be enough for a 2"-3"lift or when moving the
steering box forward, as with a Solid Axle Swap (SAS). Due to the extra
machining for this type of rag joint, the 1" spacer runs $40.00
for use on existing body lifts, or $35.00 when purchased as part of a
4Crawler body lift kit. This type of spacer can be used on
2"-3" lifted Toyota 4x4 pickups and 4Runners from 1995 and
earlier and T-100 pickups. Note that it is not required as it is
usually easy to extend
the stock steering shaft. Also, be sure to specify whether you need
the rag joint clearance slot/pockets (see picture "C") in
line with the large or the small holes. Note that the extension may
have either two pockets or one slot machined for clearance, either one
will work fine. The large holes fit over the studs in the rag joint,
the small holes are for the bolts that hold it together. The slots
provide clearance for the tabs the encase the rag joint rubber and
allow the spacer to sit flush to the rag joint. The 2" spacer can
be used for applications where the stock steering box has been
relocated farther forward on the frame or where the existing steering
shaft is not long enough with the 1" spacer, an
example application shown in this link. Also available a 1.5"
spacer for those in-between situations.
-
1": US$40.00 - for 2"-3" body lift applications, p/n:
TRB_1EX - Inventory: In-stock
-
1.5" US$50.00 - For body lift plus steering box moved forward,
p/n: TRB_1.5EX Inventory: In-stock
-
Physical height = 1-5/16""
-
2": US$55.00 - For body lift plus steering box moved forward, p/n:
TRB_2EX Inventory: In-stock
-
Raw spacers in stock as noted, allow a few days for custom machining
-
Shipping:
---
1" Recirculating Ball
Steering Extension |
1.5" Recirculating Ball
Steering Extension |
2" Recirculating Ball
Steering Extension |
US Delivery |
US Delivery |
US Delivery |
~~~~~ |
~~~~~ |
~~~~~ |
International Delivery |
International Delivery |
International Delivery |
A steering shaft extension is also available for the 4th generation
Toyota 4Runner, FJ Cruiser and some 2005+ Tacoma models with bolted rag
joint steering shafts (and it is such a good design that other lift kit
manufacturers. have stolen our design for use in their own kits!).
These spacers aslo work on the Isuzu Rodeo and similar vehicles with a
~3" dia. rubber rag joint.
On the later model Tacoma pickups (2005 and later), some steering rag
joints are bolts and some are riveted or have pressed in studs. If you
have a riveted rag joint, you'll need to be able to remove that
steering shaft in order to drill or press out the rivets/studs before
you can install the steering shaft spacer and also order a special
version of the spacer what is drilled out larger in the center to clear
the riveted rag joint - the special version adds $15.00/spacer to the
cost of those below. Contact
us for details. So be sure you ascertain what setup you have prior
to ordering.
Extension bolts on to the rubber rag joint in the driver's side foot
well. It features a drilled out center hole (3/4" - 19mm nominal)
to fit over the steering shaft and through holes to allow the existing
bolts to fit inside.
-
Spacers, nominal height:
-
1": US$45.00 - for 1"-1.5" body lift applications, p/n:
T4R4_1EX Inventory: In-stock
-
Physical height = 7/8"
-
If looking to extend your steering spacer to 1-3/4" and you have a
7/8" spacer, order another and let us know you need longer bolts
-
1.5": US$55.00 - for > 1.5" body lift applications, p/n:
T4R4_1.5EX Inventory: In-stock
-
Physical height = 1-5/16"
-
2": US$65.00 - for > 2" body lift applications, p/n:
T4R4_2EX Inventory: In-stock
-
Raw spacers in stock as noted, allow a few days for custom machining
-
Shipping:

-- 1" -- 1.5" -- 2" --
1" Steering Extension |
1.5" Steering Extension |
2" Steering Extension |
US Priority Mail Delivery |
US Priority Mail Delivery |
US Priority Mail Delivery |
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ |
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ |
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ |
International Delivery |
International Delivery |
International Delivery |
Postage and applicable sales tax is added automatically with the
ordering buttons above for Priority Mail delivery, please be sure to
provide a VALID mailing address and international orders, provide a
local telephone number for customs paperwork. Both type of extensions
come with mounting hardware to install on your steering shaft. T. Contact
4Crawler Offroad if interested in purchasing a separate steering
extension for your body lift kit, or order above. See the installation
instructions for more information.
[back to the top]
 |
Typical Front Bumper Brackets |
Body lifts often require bumper brackets to raise the bumpers to match
the height that the body was lifted. Pictured above are some typical
front bumper bracket kits, showing 3", 2" and 1"
brackets for a typical vehicle. These brackets are designed to raise
the stock front bumper to match the body lift, since the typical front
bumper attaches to both the frame and body. These brackets may also
work with aftermarket front bumpers that attach with the stock front
bumper mounting holes (typically 2 bolts on each side or in front of
the frame - depending on vehicle). The table below lists available
front bumper brackets:
Front Bumper Bracket Availability
Application |
1"-3" Lift |
'84-'88 Toyota Pickup |
Yes |
'84-'89 Toyota 4Runner |
Yes |
'89-'95 Toyota Pickup |
Yes |
'90-'95 Toyota 4Runner |
Yes |
'95-'04 Toyota Tacoma |
Yes |
'96-'00 Toyota 4Runner |
Yes |
'01-'02 Toyota 4Runner |
See
instructions |
'03-'06 Toyota 4Runner |
N/A |
Toyota {F,B,H}J-6{0,1,2} Landcruiser |
N/A |
Mitsubishi Montero |
N/A |
If your vehicle is one of the types listed above marked
"Yes", then you can order a bumper bracket below. State the
year and type of vehicle and the lift height desired in the
"Note" field of the order form:
Order a pair of front bumper brackets for your
body-lifted Toyota:
US$20.00 + shipping |
US Priority Mail Delivery: $8.40 |
~~~~~ |
International Delivery: $35.95 |
A shipping charge is added automatically with the ordering buttons
above for Priority Mail, please be sure to provide a VALID mailing
address and international orders, provide a local telephone number for
customs paperwork. If you do not see your bumper application listed
above, feel free to contact 4Crawler
Offroad to see about availability. For a new bracket to be
designed, you'll be required to furnish pertinent dimensions of your
existing brackets, such as bolt hole size and spacing. And feel free to
consult the installation
instructions to see how the brackets are installed and also see the
section on modifying aftermarket bumper
brackets for use with body lifts.
[back to the top]
The radiator may need to be relocated with a body lift. This is often
the case since the radiator mounts to the body and the engine (and
cooling fan) are attached to the frame. Lifting the body offsets the
two leading to possible fan/shroud interference or reduced cooling
efficiency if the fan moves outside the shroud.
There are a few cases where nothing needs to be done with the radiator
mounting. One case is where you have an electric fan attached to the
radiator itself and as long as that setup is clear to move up with the
body, no relocation may be needed. This will also depend on how the
radiator hoses can handle the offset. In some cases, you may find at
lifts of 2" or higher, the radiator hoses may become kinked and
that might restrict coolant flow. So be sure to inspect both the upper
and lower radiator hoses to see how they will respond to the offset
caused by a body lift. Another case where the radiator may not need to
be relocated is where there is "daylight" between the fan and
shroud (or where the fan shroud has been removed). In this case, the
radiator can be raised without causing interference with the fan, so as
long as the hoses are "happy", no relocation is needed. And a
variation of this case is where the lower half of the fan shroud is
removable (or has been removed), then the fan has clearance below the
shroud and the body lift will cause no interference.
That said, there are some advantages to relocating the radiator back in
line with the engine mounted fan, assuming that fan has not been
replaced with an electric fan. That is that the fan and shroud are an
important part of the cooling system, especially when stopped or when
driving at slow speeds, like when going off-road. The shroud and fan
work together to maximize air flow through the radiator when the fan is
the only source of air flow (note that when driving at speeds of 20MPH
or more, the natural air flow from the vehicle's motion is usually
sufficient to cool the engine). But we have seen some studies some time
ago in one of the off-roading magazines where they tested all sorts of
radiator/fan/shroud setups for cooling efficiency and the variation was
only in the 5% range from no shroud to a properly fitting shroud. But,
if you live in a hot climate and tow a boat up into the mountains with
the A/C running, you may need every percent of cooling efficiency you
can get. While if you live in a cooler climate, it may make no
difference. Like we tell folks, there are no "radiator
police" out there that will pull you over to measure your radiator
height and write you up if it is not perfect.
The drop brackets pictured below may be used on most vehicles that use
4 screws to hold the radiator in place on the front core support. The
upper set of brackets feature a 5/16" threaded stud and 3/8"
holes spaced at 1" intervals (on the 2" and taller brackets)
to allow the radiator to be lowered to match the body lift height. The
lower set of brackets are used for certain applications where screws go
through the core support into threaded holes in the radiator flange,
such as on the Toyota Tacoma and 3rd/4th gen 4Runners. They are
identical to the upper brackets, but the kit includes 4 - M8x1.25 allen
head screws to use to attach the brackets to the radiator and then the
studs on the brackets go through the holes in the core support for
mounting.
 |
 |
 |
1" Drop Brackets |
2" Drop Brackets |
3" Drop Brackets |
Standard bracket sets shown above, also availabe are 1.25" and
1.5". The deluxe kits include 4 M8 button head screws for later
model Toyota vehicles like the Tacoma pickup, 3rd, 4th and 5th
generation 4Runner and FJ Cruiser models. These screws allow the
brackets to be mounted to the threded holes in the radiator flange and
then the stud on the bracket can be inserted into the hole in the core
support.
-
RadDropStd US$20.00 + shipping
-
RadDropDlx US$25.00 + shipping
Order below:
For US Delivery |
For International
Delivery |
Standard radiator drop brackets
|
Standard radiator drop brackets
|
Deluxe radiator drop brackets
|
Deluxe radiator drop brackets
|
A shipping charge is added automatically with the ordering buttons
above for Priority Mail (within the US) or Priority Mail International
(outside the US), please be sure to provide a VALID mailing address and
international orders, provide a local telephone number for customs
paperwork.
[back to the top]
Most everyone knows about aluminum, but Ultra-High Molecular Weight
PolyEthylene (UHMW-PE) may be something unfamiliar. Polyethylene itself
may be a familiar material, commonly used in milk jugs and other
plastic packaging. This is typically a low molecular weight material.
UHMW on the other hand is a polymer material with the toughness of a
metal: composed of long polymer chains with a molecular weight of
between 3 and 6 million. UHMW-PE combines the traditional abrasion
resistance of metal alloys with the impact and corrosion resistance of
synthetic materials.
The resistance to abrasion, impact and corrosion of UHMW-PE exceeds
that of many conventional structural materials. It has a number of
other valuable characteristics in applications requiring superior wear
resistance and sound deadening. Its self-lubricating properties
eliminate the need for oil and greases, making it suitable for use in
the food industry where contamination from lubricants would pose
problems. High abrasion resistance makes it ideal for liners, enabling
light aluminum trucks and trailers to carry sharp or abrasive loads. In
the manufacture of separators for lead-acid batteries, UHMW-PE meets
this demanding application due to its excellent corrosion resistance.
UHMW-PE has a melting point around 150°C (300°F), a tensile
strength nearly twenty times greater than steel, this stuff is often
used in bullet-proof vests and in the new synthetic winch cables. For
example, consider the free breaking length (FBL), that is the length of
a filament of material that could be suspended before it breaks:
Material |
FBL (km) |
Steel |
25 |
Glass Fiber |
125 |
Carbon Fiber |
195 |
Aramid Fiber (Kevlar) |
235 |
UHMW_PE fiber |
330 |
Free Breaking Length of Materials
This is tough stuff, drop one of the blocks and you'd swear it was
metal. It is a bear to cut, it took 4Crawler Offroad quite a bit of
research and development to find a way to cut the bulk rod into useable
blocks.
One last factor that makes UHMW-PE an ideal material for body lift
blocks is that it is self-lubricating, i.e. it won't SQUEAK. With metal
spacers or even the extruded fiberglass-type blocks, the constant
rubbing action of the floor of the body and the blocks can lead to
squeaking and on the fiberglass blocks, the friction can start to wear
away the material. UHMW-PE is commonly used for bearing material in
industrial applications. UHMW-PE has a wide temperature range as well,
from below -100°F to +180°F and a melting point of over
280°F. Here
is a link to more extensive physical properties of this material.
Another possible body lift block material we've been asked about is
polyurethane. After all, isn't polyurethane used in body mount
bushingsm so why not make the body lift blocks out of the same
material? Body mount bushings are designed to allow a little flex
between the frame and the body. They are generally 1"/25mm or less
in height and are designed with a given amount of compliance to perform
this function. However, add an inch or two or three of flexible
polyurethane on top of those bushings and you'll find the body swaying
from side to side as you drive down the road. You'll end up with way
too much flex and that can lead to fatigue in the body mount bolts.
Also, polyurethane is very hard to machine, that's why it's more
commonly molded into a shape. Polyurethane casting molds are very
expensive to make and you need specialized equipment to properly pour
and cure the material. Unless one is making large quantities of the
same part, it's cost prohibitive to make parts this way.
One minor drawback to UHMW is that if it is left exposed to sunlight
it can get some surface crazing due to the UV exposure. This typically
takes a few years of exposure to show up and since most body mounts are
hidden under the truck, this is normally not an issue (reflected light
off the ground is no issue). A simple coat of paint or undercoating
spray will block any UV that may hit the block if it is somehow exposed
to direct sunlight through a gab in the body or bed. The crazing is
only surface deep and will not affect the strength of the block. We
have a test block that has been in direct sunlight for almost 10 years
now and it has crazing over the surface but only a few 0.01" down,
the material is unaffected. The UHMW material is slightly translucent
and upon exposure to UV, it turns an opaque white color and that limits
the depth of penetration of the UV light to the very surface layer to
it will not penetrate to the center of the block under normal
conditions. You can also order the blocks pre-colored
to avoid this issue as well...
If you would like a sample block, that can be sent to you one to
evaluate for $3.00 to cover the cost of postage. Just
include your name, address, and vehicle application, and you'll
receive a sample by US mail shortly:
[back to the top]
This kit will function for its intended use, that is it will lift the
body of the vehicle off the frame by the specified amount, the bolts
will fit in the blocks and the nuts will screw onto the threads of the
bolts. Anything beyond that is totally out of our control. You must
realize that this will raise your vehicle's center of gravity, making
it less stable in turns and in off-camber situations. It can also
increase leverage on body mounts, especially in cases of high speed
impacts. This is simple physics and geometry.
Although this kit is made from the highest quality materials possible,
it is not a substitute for safe and careful driving. In other words;
good, safe on-road and off-road common sense. Know the terrain, vehicle
and speed limitations, and obstacles that lay ahead. Please remember to
preserve our right to enjoy public lands through the proper use of your
off-road vehicle, Tread Lightly by all means.
After researching materials, equipment, and fabrication techniques,
4Crawler Offroad was formed to provide these products at a reasonable
cost in order to be able to offer this solution to others who lacked
the time, equipment, or expertise to do this themselves.
NOTES:
-
4Crawler Offroad does not have the resources to go test fit all the
kits on every possible year and model truck. Kits have been installed
on representative vehicles and it is felt that they will fit as
designed. With variations in specific vehicles, etc. 4Crawler Offroad
can't guarantee all the parts will fit perfectly on any given vehicle.
We will be more than happy to work with you on resolving fitment issues
as they come up. If something looks like it won't fit, please contact us and together we can work on
resolving the issue.
-
If you want to ensure a trouble-free installation, you are more than
welcome to provide a list of stock bolt sizes/lengths and other pertinent information prior to placing
your order.
Its funny how the subject of a body lift can polarize a discussion into
folks who absolutely hate them and folks who like them. I'll admit I've
seen some rather bad examples of body lifted trucks as well as bad
examples of suspension lifts including blocks, cut and welded steering components,
foot long shackles, and other nightmares of questionable engineering.
Some vehicle bodies sit very high on the frame (Nissan and Chevy
pickups come to mind) others, like Toyota, seem to sit very low on the
frame. In fact, at stock height, a 4Runner frame is barely visible
under the body:


Stock <<<<<<< >>>>>>> 3"
Body Lift
In the above photos, you can see my truck when it sat on the stock body
mount bushings and 3 years later with a 3" body lift. I think
there was more "stuff" hanging down below the body before
than after. FYI: Both shots are taken with the same 33x9.50 tires. I do
have nerf bars installed in the after
shot that were not there in the before picture. I replaced the stock
wheel well liners with Lift Lips designed to cover the gap for a
3" body lift.
With the 3" lift:
-
I now have room to fit tall enough shocks so they aren't limiting the
suspension travel
-
I can run a strong nerf bar straight off the frame
-
I can fit a full winch bumper at about the same height as the non-winch
bumper I used to run
-
I've easily gained a foot of clearance at the back of the vehicle by
making a much simpler rear bumper coming straight off the frame
Point is that a body lift can be done in a tasteful manner and can be a
starting point for a whole lot of other vehicle improvements. A body
lift is not a cure-all, either. But as part of a well integrated system
it can be a very useful component. Lest you think the body lift is just
for show, when I stuff a 33x15.50 Swamper TSL/SX tire up in those wheel
wells, I'm happy for every inch of lift that I have:

Both front and rear tires are capable of getting stuffed several inches
into the wheel wells. At one time, I measured only 5" from the
front fender to the top of the rim, meaning I had about 4" of tire
above the lip of the fender.
Folks will list many reasons why a body lift is a bad idea. Mostly
those concerns seem to revolve around poor or incomplete installations.
-
So just like the person who puts on larger tires and then complains of
a "lack of power" in his truck.
-
Well, this is just an incomplete installation, you really should change
the axle gearing to restore the original engine RPM and torque range on
the road.
-
Or a person who installs a suspension lift then complains about drive shaft vibration or CV joint breakage.
-
Again, this is a case of an incomplete installation. You need to
address and correct any drive shaft angle/alignment issues and/or take
steps to reduce CV joint operating angles to reasonable levels.
So, if someone complains that a body lift messed up the shifter
operation, this is another case of an incomplete installation. There
are many solutions available to make shifter operation work as well, if
not better than stock; including shifter
extensions, short throw shift kits, drive train lifts, etc. Or they complain
that there is a gap between the body and bumper. Simple fix is to
install relocation brackets or modify the bumper to close the gap. And
this has the side effect of increasing approach and/or departure angles
on the vehicle, which is another aspect of a body lift many folks
overlook when they say a body lift provides no increase in ground
clearance. While it is true that the frame is not raised, if your front
and/or rear bumpers hang down low, these can limit the size of obstacle
you can get up on or off of, so there is more to "ground
clearance" than the height of the frame or axle above the ground.
Another concern many people have about body lifts is the gap between
the body and frame, most visible in the wheel wells. I run a set of Lift
Lips on my 4Runner. They replace the stock plastic wheel well
liners with a heavy rubber material and cover up to a 3" lift. Here's how I
installed them on my truck. Not only do they fill the unattractive
gap but they also help keep water and mud out of the engine
compartment.
You can also obtain some material from a good hardware store and make
your own. Use something like sheet rubber, pond liner, rubber roll
roofing, sheet vinyl, etc. Remove the old wheel well liner and use it
as a template for cutting the new liners. Draw a parallel line to the
top, spaced down an amount equal to your lift. Then line the old liner
up with the top of the sheet and trace the upper half. Then slide it
down to the line you drew and trace the bottom half. Mark and punch out
any mounting holes and you now have a copy of the liner that will cover
the gap created by the body lift. Reattach it with the factory
hardware. On vehicles where no liners exist from the factory, usually
just a simple rectangular strip of material will suffice. Mark and
drill some mounting holes and attach the liner to the lower lip of the
wheel well.
As an alternative 4Crawler Offroad can supply the wheel well liner raw
material. We offer oil resistant neoprene rubber sheets in two
thicknesses; both standard 1/16" (1.5mm) thickness and a heavy
duty 1/8" (3mm) thickness. Each sheet, typically enough for 1
wheel well, is sized 12" tall x 36" long (305mm x 914mm),
cost is $20.00/sheet in 1/16" thickness and a fiber reinforced
neoprene rubber sheet that is $30.00/sheet in the 1/16" thickness.
That mateial is more resistant to tearing compared to the plain rubber. Separate shipping as noted here. To include with a
body lift kit order, contact us for total shipping cost. Depending on
the kit ordered and the shipping destination, there may be additional
shipping cost involved.
To make a custom fit wheel well liner, remove the existing wheel well
liner from the vehicle. Lay the top of the liner flush to the top of
the material and trace the upper half. Also, mark all the hole
locations for the mounting hardware. Then mark a few places where the
bottom of the liner sits and then measure down an amount equal to the
height of the body lift, for example 2", from those 2 points. Now
slide the original wheel well liner down to those two new marks and
trace the bottom half of the existing wheel well liner. Now use a pair
of scissors to trim the top and bottom of the material to the lines you
traced and punch holes for attaching the liner to the wheel wells. When
making cuts, be sure to leave no sharp inside corners. Instead, try to
leave about a 1" radius on all the corners to prevent tearing once
the material is installed.
Note, on some vehicles, you may be able to cut two liners from one
sheet, for example the rear wheel wells on a pickup or 4Runner as those
liners are often just a straight piece.
[back to the top]
Since all our body lift kits are custom built to your exact needs, it
is hard to make an easy order form. Feel free to contact 4Crawler
Offroad with your vehicle specs (make, model, year) and your lift needs
(tire size, clearance issues, etc.):
-
State, country or zip code needed for shipping/sales tax calculation:
-
Specify the make, model and year, cab style (regular, extra, double
cab), 2WD/4WD and cab-only or full bed, various models require slightly
different hardware
-
Questions?
For the order buttons below, US shipping is added for the 2 left-most
buttons, for the far right button, be sure to include shipping in the
total Applicable sales tax will automatically be added with these 3
buttons.
We have chosen to make ordering a simple one-click process. Rather than
having a shopping cart system where you may need to click on half a
dozen "Add To Cart" and "Check Out" buttons to
place your order, all you have to do is click on the one "Buy
Now" button below and then enter a short description of what you
want and how much those parts cost.
-
Add up the cost (in US $) of each item you want included in your body
lift kit:
-
Typical kit contents and totals are listed in the tables above
-
Add 9.0% sales tax for shipments to a California address:
- Automatically added if using the Buy Now buttons below
- If you live outside of California, no sales tax applies
-
For US addresses, $15.00 for uninsured or $18.00 for insured
Priority Mail shipping via medium flat rate box:
-
Or use one of the two "Buy Now" buttons below for
pre-computed US shipping
-
2-3 day typical Priority Mail delivery time
-
International
shipping options:
-
US Mail shipping to Canada/Mexico: US$50.95 for all the above kits
-
US Priority Mail shipping to Europe/Central and South America: US$79.95
for most items
-
US Priority Mail shipping to Asia/Australia/New Zealand:US$84.95 for
most items
-
For total weight up to 20 pounds
-
Typical shipping time is 6-10 days
-
Additional
shipping and tracking information
-
Currency conversion
-
Specify the make/model/year of the vehicle the parts are being ordered
for
|
 |
 |
Purchase w/ uninsured US shipping
- Adds US$15.00 shipping automatically |
Purchase w/ insured
US shipping
- Adds US$18.00 shipping automatically |
Purchase w/ other shipping option
- Add custom shipping cost to order total |
-
Click here for an order form tutorial
-
Via PayPal:
-
https://www.paypal.com/
-
Login, select: Send Money
-
Recipient = sales@4Crawler.com
-
Hint: Cut and paste this into the Recipient field
-
Enter Amount:
-
Be sure to include shipping and applicable sales tax in the total
-
Select Funds Source (e.g. checking account, credit
or debit card)
-
Using an e-check results in a 3-4 day delay for the funds to clear
Paypal
-
For Transaction Type, select: Goods, Non-Auction
-
Enter Subject/Note describing items desired
-
For example: 2" Body lift for 19xx Toyota 4WD
Tacoma
-
In the Note To Seller field, enter any specific
options you want in the order
-
For example: Kits: D+FB+SE+BS+RB
-
Check for correct shipping address and hit the "Send"
button
-
If in doubt on the address, (or you want to use a different address)
please include the address you want to use in the "NOTE
TO SELLER" field when given the option above.
-
Double check the shipping address before hitting the "Send"
button
-
Notes:
-
Company name will show up as "Visual Diagnostics/4Crawler
Offroad"
-
Feel free to e-mail 4Crawler Offroad to let us know you issued the
payment, although we automatically get an e-mail notification to this
effect.
-
If you prefer, 4Crawler Offroad can issue a PayPal funds
request/invoice as well
-
You should receive a confirmation e-mail from Paypal if the transaction
was successful.
-
If you don't have a Paypal account, its easy to set one up using the
link above, enter your name/address/e-mail and account info.
-
Credit Card via fax/mail: FAX:+01.772.264.8458 or +1.408.564.0801
-
Supply the following information:
-
Name
-
Billing/Shipping address
-
Phone # and e-mail address
-
Credit Card number
-
Expiration Date
-
And the 3 or 4 digit security code on the back (or front) side of the
card
-
Via mail; certified check/money order payable to (US funds):
-
4Crawler Offroad
-
Attn: Roger Brown
-
PO Box 61092
-
Sunnyvale, CA 94088-1092 USA
-
Returns and exchanges
-
Cancellation Policy
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]

Visitor #
872740
since 13.AUG.2001
[Last updated: 25.January.2021]
The latest version of this document may be found at:
//4Crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/BodyLiftKit.shtml