International shipping: US$16.95
Bare s/s hose
US Delivery |
Clad s/s hose
US Delivery |
|
|
Bare s/s hose
Int'l. Delivery |
Clad s/s hose
Int'l. Delivery |
|
|
Bare s/s hose
add on to existing body lift kit order |
Clad s/s hose
add on to existing body lift kit order |
|
|
[back to the top]
Most Toyota 4WD body lift kits would not work on vehicles with
automatic transmissions. The A/T shift linkage on most Toyota 4WD
pickups and 4Runner (up through 1995) consists of two main parts, the
transmission shift lever and the transfer case shift lever. The
transmission lever is adjustable and can handle up to a 3" body
lift with simple adjustments. There are two types of 4WD, or transfer
case, shifters. The most common type is an external linkage, on the
other hand will only work up to about a 1" body lift without
modifications. Above 1", a bracket is required that lifts the
transfer case shift lever up so that body lifts in the 2" to
3" range can now be done on A/T equipped Toyota 4WD vehicles. A
less common type of transfer case shifter goes directly into the
transfer case, just like a manual transmission setup (see above
section) and this bracket setup is not needed. You should examine your
transmission/transfer case linkage to verify which type you have before
ordering and installing a body lift lit.
The table below lists some typical vehicle applications for which body
lift kits are available and whether that application will require
brackets for the automatic transmission linkage. Note that "Y"
indicates a bracket kit is required to install the body lift and "N"
means that one is not needed, although some linkage adjustments will
typically be required:
A/T Bracket Requirements
| Application |
1" Lift |
2" Lift |
3" Lift |
| '79-'88 Toyota Pickup |
N |
Y |
Y |
| '84-'89 Toyota 4Runner |
N |
Y |
Y |
| '89-'95 Toyota Pickup |
N |
Y |
Y |
| '96 and later Hilux, gas engines |
N |
Y |
Y |
| '90-'95 Toyota 4Runner |
N |
Y |
Y |
| '96 and later Hilux Surf, gas engines |
N |
Y |
Y |
| T-100 |
N |
Y |
Y |
| '95-'04 Toyota Tacoma (US) |
N |
N |
N |
| ''96-'02 Toyota 4Runner (US) |
N |
N |
N |
| '03-'xx Toyota 4Runner |
N |
n/a |
n/a |
| FJ Cruiser |
N |
n/a |
n/a |
| '05-'xx Tacoma |
N |
N |
n/a |
| Tundra |
N |
N |
N |
| Toyota {F,B,H}J-6{0,1,2} Landcruiser |
N |
N |
N |
| Mitsubishi Montero |
N |
N |
N |
 |
 |
 |
| A/T T-case Shift Lever Bracket |
Bracket Install Location(s) |
A/T Shifter Bracket & Linkage Extension
Installed |
The bracket is fabricated from heavy gauge steel and includes new
mounting bolts to attach the lower bracket to it, the existing hardware
is then used to attach the bracket to the stock location (circled in red in the above-right image). The A/T
linkage extension is a bolt-on extension for the upper shift linkage (circled in green in the above-right image) to
prevent binding in the 2H position. Also available for customers who
have another A/T shifter bracket, the A/T linkage extension is
available separately (this is the square piece in the A/T bracket kit).
The linkage extension is useful in those situations where you "run
out" of adjustment in the stock shift linkage. The extension
allows you to raise the shift linkage attachment point up to minimize
the effect of the body lift. And on the 2WD pickups and 4Runners, this
linkage bracket may be the only bracket you need since your truck lacks
the transfer case shifter. Again this linkage extension is typically
needed at a 3" lift and optional at 2" lift.
We have redesigned the A/T shifter kits so that all parts can be used
on 2" and 3" lifts interchangeably. So while most folks
typically only need the A/T shift lever bracket at 2", you can
install the A/T linkage extension if you wish. Likewise, while most
folks typically need both the bracket and linkage extension at 3",
some only need the shift lever bracket, so you can now mix and match
the parts as you wish. Consult the installation instructions
for more details.
The A/T shift lever bracket is priced at $45 (typically for use on
2" lifts) or the full bracket plus linkage extension kit for $55
(typically for use on 3" lifts). If you have another brand body
lift that does not include the A/T linkage brackets, this is the kit
for you. A 2" or 3" lift is a 2" or 3" lift no
matter what brand lift kit is used. Also you can use either the bracket
or linkage extension on either a 2" or 3" lift.
A shipping charge is added automatically with the ordering buttons
below for Priority Mail delivery, please be sure to provide a VALID
mailing address and international orders, provide a local telephone
number for customs paperwork.. Before ordering these bracket kits, see
the important notes below:
Notes:
-
A shipping charge added automatically with the ordering buttons above
for Priority Mail (within the US) or Priority Mail International
(outside the US), please be sure to provide a VALID mailing address and
international orders, provide a local telephone number for customs
paperwork.
-
You should make sure you have a linkage-style transfer case shifter.
Some A/T-equipped trucks have transfer case shifters that go directly
into the transfer case, just like a manual transmission truck has. If
this is the case, then do not order this adapter/bracket, IT WILL NOT
WORK FOR YOU. Other options are to extend
the transfer case shift lever, or convert it to a short throw setup.
-
For the Tacoma ('95.5 onwards) and 3rd. gen 4Runner ('96-'02)
applications, the shift linkage only requires adjustment, no bracket is
needed.
[back to the top]
 |
 |
| A: Steering shaft disassembled |
B: Steering shaft extended |
 |
 |
| C: Recirc.Ball vs. Rack&Pinion |
D: 4th Gen 4Runner/Tacoma |
Pictured above are a selection of our 1" (25mm) nominal spacers.
We have taller versions up to 3" (75mm) nominal and they are the
same design, differeing only in height.
Many vehicles use a rubber "rag joint" in the steering shaft
to help dampen out road vibrations in the steering wheel. It is used to
joint two sections of the steering shaft via a round rubber disc. One
section of shaft is attached to the rubber disc via a pair of studs.
The other end of the shaft is attached via a pair of bolts or rivets.
The attaching flange has two slots that fit around the studs. These
slots allow the studs to move around as the rubber twists under load
and vibration. Before the rubber can twist too far, the studs make
contact with the side of the slots.
Our spacers are designed to fit over the studs with over sized holes
allowing the studs freedom of movement. The spacer is bolted to the
other side of the steering shaft. This way it extends the function of
the slots. Many vehicles use a similar style rag joint, including
Toyota, Isuzu, etc. To check if your vehicle has a silimar rag joint,
the rubber disc is approx. 3" (75mm) in diameter and the holes are
on a 2-1/8" (55mm) diameter bolt circle. Bolt size is 5/16"
(8mm) and the slots for the studs are appox. 3/4" (19mm) across.
The spacers are machined from billet 6061-T6 aluminum alloy for
strength and come with a pair of longer bolts and lock nuts to replace
the original bolts.
Toyota vehicles with rack and pinion steering typically use a nearly
vertical steering shaft that runs from the steering column penetration
of the firewall to the steering rack mounted on the frame. Since the
shaft is vertical, it is directly affected by a body lift. There is
some amount of adjustment at the lower clamp, sometimes and inch or
more of excess shaft is inside the clamp. However, it is difficult to
ascertain the amount of spline remaining inside the clamp without
removing the steering shaft. At the base of the steering shaft is the
"rag joint", that allows for slight misalignment and also
helps to absorb jolts from the road. It is possible to slightly extend
the length of the shaft with washers on top of the rag joint. Beyond
about 1/2" and the stop bolts on the rag joint will slip past the
slots on the steering shaft and this would leave the rag joint
unsupported and subject to damage. Therefore, an extension of some is
required. In the above images, you can see the rag joint disassembled
and the extension that slips over the stop bolts and is then bolted in
between the rag joint and steering shaft. Due to the angle of the
steering shaft, the spacer can be a bit less than the amount of body
lift, for example, for a 3" lift, the spacer is 2.5" tall. In
our experienhce, it's much easier to pull the male spline out of the
upper shaft clamp a little bit, if needed, then it is to push the male
spline farther into the clamp. This is becuase the female splines
farther up in the pinch clamp are often rusty or dirty and would
require dissembline the clamp to clean out the splines. The table below
lists some typical vehicle applications for which body lift kits are
available and whether that application will require extensions for the
steering shaft. Note that "Y" indicates an extension
is likely required to install the body lift and "N"
means that one is likely not needed, although some
adjustment of the steering shaft may be required (click here for
details). On certain models, Toyota changed from the recirculating
ball steering box to a rack and pinion type steering around 1995-6 time
frame. The vehicles listed in Bold/Italic represent the rack
and pinion type steering extensions, vs. the other vehicles
that use the recirculating ball steering box. Easy to check which type
of steering you have. The recirculating ball steering box will be
attached to the outside of the frame, up in front of the front axle on
the driver's side. The rack and pinion steering is located in the
center of the vehicle, down low on the firewall behind the front axle.
So be sure and check your vehicle to see which type of steering you
have before ordering an extension.
Steering Shaft Extension Requirements
- N* Extension not needed but 1" extension can be
installed if desired
- N Means an extension is not needed
- n/a Means a steering extension for that lift height is not available
- Y or Y/x" Means that an extension is needed and if so, what
height
- Y* Means that an extension is needed and it needs to be custom extra
tall version
- '96 and later Hilux / Hilux Surf imply non-US
models which are closer to the '95 and earlier US models
| Application |
1" Lift |
1.5" Lift |
2" Lift |
3" Lift |
| '79-'88 Toyota Pickup / Hilux |
N |
N |
N* |
N* |
| '84-'89 Toyota 4Runner / Hilux Surf- 1st gen |
N |
N |
N* |
N* |
| '89-'95 Toyota Pickup / Hilux |
N |
N |
N* |
Y/1" |
| '90-'95 Toyota 4Runner / Hilux Surf- 2nd gen |
N |
N |
N* |
Y/1" |
| '96 and later Hilux / Hilux Surf |
N |
N |
N* |
Y/1" |
| '95-'04 Toyota Tacoma |
Y/1" |
Y/1.5" |
Y/2" |
Y/3" |
| '05-'xx Toyota Tacoma |
N* |
Y |
Y* |
n/a |
| '96-'02 Toyota 4Runner - 3rd gen |
Y/1" |
Y/1.5" |
Y/2" |
Y/3" |
| '03-'xx Toyota 4Runner - 4th gen |
N* |
Y |
n/a |
n/a |
| FJ Cruiser |
N* |
Y |
n/a |
n/a |
| Toyota {F,B,H}J-6{0,1,2} Landcruiser |
N |
N |
N |
N |
| Toyota FJ80, Lexus LX-450 |
N |
N |
N* |
Y |
| Mitsubishi Montero |
N |
N |
N |
N |
| Isuzu Rodeo |
N |
N |
Y* |
Y |
The 1" lift rack&pinion extension (pictured right in image
"C" above) is priced at $30.00 for use with existing
body lifts. Extensions for 1.5", 2" and 3" lifts are
available for use on existing body lifts as well. On Tacoma 4WD pickups
with 4" ProComp lifts, steering extension beyond 5/8" tall
may not clear the steering rack drop bracket.
Use the convenient on-line ordering buttons below to order stand-alone
steering shaft extensions for use with your existing body lift: (if
ordering with a 4Crawler body lift kit, do not order below, contact
4Crawler Offroad for a kit discount). A shipping charge is added
automatically with the ordering buttons below for Priority Mail
delivery, please be sure to provide a VALID mailing address and
international orders, provide a local telephone number for customs
paperwork. Order the steering extension designed for the type of
steering:
-
1": US$30.00 - for 1" body lift applications, p/n: TRP_1EX -
In stock
-
1.5" US$40.00 - for 1.5" body lift applications, p/n:
TRP_1.5EX - In stock
-
2": US$40.00 - for 2" body lift applications, p/n: TRP_2EX -
In stock
-
3": US$50.00 - for 3" body lift applications, p/n: TRP_3EX -
In stock
-
Shipping:
---
1" Lift Rack&Pinion
Steering Extension: |
1.5" Lift Rack&Pinion
Steering Extension: |
2" Lift Rack&Pinion
Steering Extension: |
3" Lift Rack&Pinion
Steering Extension: |
US Priority Mail Delivery |
US Priority Mail Delivery |
US Priority Mail Delivery |
US Priority Mail Delivery |
| ~~~~~ |
~~~~~ |
~~~~~ |
~~~~~ |
International Delivery |
International Delivery |
International Delivery |
International Delivery |
Extensions over ~2.5" tall will not fit un-lifted rack&pinion
vehicles due to rag joint / frame interference, but this is tall enough
for a 3" body lift, due to the angle of the steering shaft. These
extensions can also be combined with upper spline extensions used in
other lift kits, such as what PA supplies, or it can be used to replace
the problematic and breakage-prone spline extensions. Also note that on
Tacoma Pickups with Edelbrock headers, you may be restricted to about a
1" tall spacer, due to header/rag joint clearance issues.
For recirculating ball steering (pictured left in image "C"
above), generally the steering shaft is extendable (and collapsible for
crash safety). But if you can't extend the shaft, a similar bolt-in rag
joint spacer is available. Since the steering shaft is at an angle, you
usually only need extensions over 2" of lift and then only at 1/2
the amount of lift. For example a 1" spacer (3/4" actual
height) should be enough for a 2"-3"lift or when moving the
steering box forward, as with a Solid Axle Swap (SAS). Due to the extra
machining for this type of rag joint, the 1" spacer runs $40.00
for use on existing body lifts, or $35.00 when purchased as part of a
4Crawler body lift kit. This type of spacer can be used on
2"-3" lifted Toyota 4x4 pickups and 4Runners from 1995 and
earlier and T-100 pickups. Note that it is not required as it is
usually easy to extend
the stock steering shaft. Also, be sure to specify whether you need
the rag joint clearance slot/pockets (see picture "C") in
line with the large or the small holes. Note that the extension may
have either two pockets or one slot machined for clearance, either one
will work fine. The large holes fit over the studs in the rag joint,
the small holes are for the bolts that hold it together. The slots
provide clearance for the tabs the encase the rag joint rubber and
allow the spacer to sit flush to the rag joint. The 2" spacer can
be used for applications where the stock steering box has been
relocated farther forward on the frame or where the existing steering
shaft is not long enough with the 1" spacer, an
example application shown in this link. Also available a 1.5"
spacer for those in-between situations.
-
1": US$40.00 - for 2"-3" body lift applications, p/n:
TRB_1EX - Inventory: In-stock
-
1.5" US$50.00 - For body lift plus steering box moved forward,
p/n: TRB_1.5EX Inventory: In-stock
-
Physical height = 1-1/4""
-
2": US$50.00 - For body lift plus steering box moved forward, p/n:
TRB_2EX Inventory: In-stock
-
Shipping:
---
1" Recirculating Ball
Steering Extension |
1.5" Recirculating Ball
Steering Extension |
2" Recirculating Ball
Steering Extension |
US Delivery |
US Delivery |
US Delivery |
| ~~~~~ |
~~~~~ |
~~~~~ |
International Delivery |
International Delivery |
International Delivery |
A steering shaft extension is also available for the 4th generation
Toyota 4Runner, FJ Cruiser and some 2005+ Tacoma models with bolted rag
joint steering shafts (and it is such a good design that other lift kit
manufacturers. have stolen our design for use in their own kits!).
These spacers aslo work on the Isuzu Rodeo and similar vehicles with a
~3" dia. rubber rag joint.
On the later model Tacoma pickups (2005 and later), some steering rag
joints are bolts and some are riveted or have pressed in studs. If you
have a riveted rag joint, you'll need to be able to remove that
steering shaft in order to drill or press out the rivets/studs before
you can install the steering shaft spacer and also order a special
version of the spacer what is drilled out larger in the center to clear
the riveted rag joint - the special version adds $15.00/spacer to the
cost of those below. Contact
us for details. So be sure you ascertain what setup you have prior
to ordering.
Extension bolts on to the rubber rag joint in the driver's side foot
well. It features a drilled out center hole (3/4" - 19mm nominal)
to fit over the steering shaft and through holes to allow the existing
bolts to fit inside. The spacer is designed to fit those model body
lifts from 1" to 1.5" and costs $US40.00 + shipping:
-
1": US$40.00 - for 1"-1.5" body lift applications, p/n:
T4R4_1EX Inventory: In-stock
-
Shipping:
---
Up to 1.5" lift 4th gen
Steering Extension |
Up to 1.5" lift 4th gen
Steering Extension |
US Priority Mail Delivery |
International Delivery |
Postage and applicable sales tax is added automatically with the
ordering buttons above for Priority Mail delivery, please be sure to
provide a VALID mailing address and international orders, provide a
local telephone number for customs paperwork. Both type of extensions
come with mounting hardware to install on your steering shaft. T. Contact
4Crawler Offroad if interested in purchasing a separate steering
extension for your body lift kit, or order above. See the installation
instructions for more information.
[back to the top]
 |
| Typical Front Bumper Brackets |
Body lifts often require bumper brackets to raise the bumpers to match
the height that the body was lifted. Pictured above are some typical
front bumper bracket kits, showing 3", 2" and 1"
brackets for a typical vehicle. These brackets are designed to raise
the stock front bumper to match the body lift, since the typical front
bumper attaches to both the frame and body. These brackets may also
work with aftermarket front bumpers that attach with the stock front
bumper mounting holes (typically 2 bolts on each side or in front of
the frame - depending on vehicle). The table below lists available
front bumper brackets:
Front Bumper Bracket Availability
| Application |
1"-3" Lift |
| '84-'88 Toyota Pickup |
Yes |
| '84-'89 Toyota 4Runner |
Yes |
| '89-'95 Toyota Pickup |
Yes |
| '90-'95 Toyota 4Runner |
Yes |
| '95-'04 Toyota Tacoma |
Yes |
| '96-'00 Toyota 4Runner |
Yes |
| '01-'02 Toyota 4Runner |
See
instructions |
| '03-'06 Toyota 4Runner |
N/A |
| Toyota {F,B,H}J-6{0,1,2} Landcruiser |
N/A |
| Mitsubishi Montero |
N/A |
If your vehicle is one of the types listed above marked
"Yes", then you can order a bumper bracket below. State the
year and type of vehicle and the lift height desired in the
"Note" field of the order form:
Order a pair of front bumper brackets for your
body-lifted Toyota:
US$20.00 + shipping |
US Priority Mail Delivery: $7.95 |
| ~~~~~ |
International Delivery: $34.95 |
A shipping charge is added automatically with the ordering buttons
above for Priority Mail, please be sure to provide a VALID mailing
address and international orders, provide a local telephone number for
customs paperwork. If you do not see your bumper application listed
above, feel free to contact 4Crawler
Offroad to see about availability. For a new bracket to be
designed, you'll be required to furnish pertinent dimensions of your
existing brackets, such as bolt hole size and spacing. And feel free to
consult the installation
instructions to see how the brackets are installed and also see the
section on modifying aftermarket bumper
brackets for use with body lifts.
[back to the top]
The radiator may need to be relocated with a body lift. This is often
the case since the radiator mounts to the body and the engine (and
cooling fan) are attached to the frame. Lifting the body offsets the
two leading to possible fan/shroud interference or reduced cooling
efficiency if the fan moves outside the shroud.
There are a few cases where nothing needs to be done with the radiator
mounting. One case is where you have an electric fan attached to the
radiator itself and as long as that setup is clear to move up with the
body, no relocation may be needed. This will also depend on how the
radiator hoses can handle the offset. In some cases, you may find at
lifts of 2" or higher, the radiator hoses may become kinked and
that might restrict coolant flow. So be sure to inspect both the upper
and lower radiator hoses to see how they will respond to the offset
caused by a body lift. Another case where the radiator may not need to
be relocated is where there is "daylight" between the fan and
shroud (or where the fan shroud has been removed). In this case, the
radiator can be raised without causing interference with the fan, so as
long as the hoses are "happy", no relocation is needed. And a
variation of this case is where the lower half of the fan shroud is
removable (or has been removed), then the fan has clearance below the
shroud and the body lift will cause no interference.
That said, there are some advantages to relocating the radiator back in
line with the engine mounted fan, assuming that fan has not been
replaced with an electric fan. That is that the fan and shroud are an
important part of the cooling system, especially when stopped or when
driving at slow speeds, like when going off-road. The shroud and fan
work together to maximize air flow through the radiator when the fan is
the only source of air flow (note that when driving at speeds of 20MPH
or more, the natural air flow from the vehicle's motion is usually
sufficient to cool the engine). But we have seen some studies some time
ago in one of the off-roading magazines where they tested all sorts of
radiator/fan/shroud setups for cooling efficiency and the variation was
only in the 5% range from no shroud to a properly fitting shroud. But,
if you live in a hot climate and tow a boat up into the mountains with
the A/C running, you may need every percent of cooling efficiency you
can get. While if you live in a cooler climate, it may make no
difference. Like we tell folks, there are no "radiator
police" out there that will pull you over to measure your radiator
height and write you up if it is not perfect.
The drop brackets pictured below may be used on most vehicles that use
4 screws to hold the radiator in place on the front core support. The
upper set of brackets feature a 5/16" threaded stud and 3/8"
holes spaced at 1" intervals (on the 2" and taller brackets)
to allow the radiator to be lowered to match the body lift height. The
lower set of brackets are used for certain applications where screws go
through the core support into threaded holes in the radiator flange,
such as on the Toyota Tacoma and 3rd/4th gen 4Runners. They are
identical to the upper brackets, but the kit includes 4 - M8x1.25 allen
head screws to use to attach the brackets to the radiator and then the
studs on the brackets go through the holes in the core support for
mounting.
 |
 |
 |
| 1" Drop Brackets |
2" Drop Brackets |
3" Drop Brackets |
Standard bracket sets shown above, also availabe are 1.25" and
1.5". The deluxe kits include 4 M8 button head screws for later
model Toyota vehicles like the Tacoma pickup, 3rd, 4th and 5th
generation 4Runner and FJ Cruiser models. These screws allow the
brackets to be mounted to the threded holes in the radiator flange and
then the stud on the bracket can be inserted into the hole in the core
support.
-
RadDropStd US$20.00 + shipping
-
RadDropDlx US$25.00 + shipping
Order below:
| For US Delivery |
For International
Delivery |
Standard radiator drop brackets
|
Standard radiator drop brackets
|
Deluxe radiator drop brackets
|
Deluxe radiator drop brackets
|
A shipping charge is added automatically with the ordering buttons
above for Priority Mail (within the US) or Priority Mail International
(outside the US), please be sure to provide a VALID mailing address and
international orders, provide a local telephone number for customs
paperwork.
[back to the top]
Most everyone knows about aluminum, but Ultra-High Molecular Weight
PolyEthylene (UHMW-PE) may be something unfamiliar. Polyethylene itself
may be a familiar material, commonly used in milk jugs and other
plastic packaging. This is typically a low molecular weight material.
UHMW on the other hand is a polymer material with the toughness of a
metal: composed of long polymer chains with a molecular weight of
between 3 and 6 million. UHMW-PE combines the traditional abrasion
resistance of metal alloys with the impact and corrosion resistance of
synthetic materials.
The resistance to abrasion, impact and corrosion of UHMW-PE exceeds
that of many conventional structural materials. It has a number of
other valuable characteristics in applications requiring superior wear
resistance and sound deadening. Its self-lubricating properties
eliminate the need for oil and greases, making it suitable for use in
the food industry where contamination from lubricants would pose
problems. High abrasion resistance makes it ideal for liners, enabling
light aluminum trucks and trailers to carry sharp or abrasive loads. In
the manufacture of separators for lead-acid batteries, UHMW-PE meets
this demanding application due to its excellent corrosion resistance.
UHMW-PE has a melting point around 150°C (300°F), a tensile
strength nearly twenty times greater than steel, this stuff is often
used in bullet-proof vests and in the new synthetic winch cables. For
example, consider the free breaking length (FBL), that is the length of
a filament of material that could be suspended before it breaks:
| Material |
FBL (km) |
| Steel |
25 |
| Glass Fiber |
125 |
| Carbon Fiber |
195 |
| Aramid Fiber (Kevlar) |
235 |
| UHMW_PE fiber |
330 |
Free Breaking Length of Materials
This is tough stuff, drop one of the blocks and you'd swear it was
metal. It is a bear to cut, it took 4Crawler Offroad quite a bit of
research and development to find a way to cut the bulk rod into useable
blocks.
One last factor that makes UHMW-PE an ideal material for body lift
blocks is that it is self-lubricating, i.e. it won't SQUEAK. With metal
spacers or even the extruded fiberglass-type blocks, the constant
rubbing action of the floor of the body and the blocks can lead to
squeaking and on the fiberglass blocks, the friction can start to wear
away the material. UHMW-PE is commonly used for bearing material in
industrial applications. UHMW-PE has a wide temperature range as well,
from below -100°F to +180°F and a melting point of over
280°F. Here
is a link to more extensive physical properties of this material.
Another possible body lift block material we've been asked about is
polyurethane. After all, isn't polyurethane used in body mount
bushingsm so why not make the body lift blocks out of the same
material? Body mount bushings are designed to allow a little flex
between the frame and the body. They are generally 1"/25mm or less
in height and are designed with a given amount of compliance to perform
this function. However, add an inch or two or three of flexible
polyurethane on top of those bushings and you'll find the body swaying
from side to side as you drive down the road. You'll end up with way
too much flex and that can lead to fatigue in the body mount bolts.
Also, polyurethane is very hard to machine, that's why it's more
commonly molded into a shape. Polyurethane casting molds are very
expensive to make and you need specialized equipment to properly pour
and cure the material. Unless one is making large quantities of the
same part, it's cost prohibitive to make parts this way.
One minor drawback to UHMW is that if it is left exposed to sunlight
it can get some surface crazing due to the UV exposure. This typically
takes a few years of exposure to show up and since most body mounts are
hidden under the truck, this is normally not an issue (reflected light
off the ground is no issue). A simple coat of paint or undercoating
spray will block any UV that may hit the block if it is somehow exposed
to direct sunlight through a gab in the body or bed. The crazing is
only surface deep and will not affect the strength of the block. We
have a test block that has been in direct sunlight for almost 10 years
now and it has crazing over the surface but only a few 0.01" down,
the material is unaffected. The UHMW material is slightly translucent
and upon exposure to UV, it turns an opaque white color and that limits
the depth of penetration of the UV light to the very surface layer to
it will not penetrate to the center of the block under normal
conditions. You can also order the blocks pre-colored
to avoid this issue as well...
If you would like a sample block, that can be sent to you one to
evaluate for $3.00 to cover the cost of postage. Just
include your name, address, and vehicle application, and you'll
receive a sample by US mail shortly:
[back to the top]
This kit will function for its intended use, that is it will lift the
body of the vehicle off the frame by the specified amount, the bolts
will fit in the blocks and the nuts will screw onto the threads of the
bolts. Anything beyond that is totally out of our control. You must
realize that this will raise your vehicle's center of gravity, making
it less stable in turns and in off-camber situations. It can also
increase leverage on body mounts, especially in cases of high speed
impacts. This is simple physics and geometry.
Although this kit is made from the highest quality materials possible,
it is not a substitute for safe and careful driving. In other words;
good, safe on-road and off-road common sense. Know the terrain, vehicle
and speed limitations, and obstacles that lay ahead. Please remember to
preserve our right to enjoy public lands through the proper use of your
off-road vehicle, Tread Lightly by all means.
After researching materials, equipment, and fabrication techniques,
4Crawler Offroad was formed to provide these products at a reasonable
cost in order to be able to offer this solution to others who lacked
the time, equipment, or expertise to do this themselves.
NOTES:
-
4Crawler Offroad does not have the resources to go test fit all the
kits on every possible year and model truck. Kits have been installed
on representative vehicles and it is felt that they will fit as
designed. With variations in specific vehicles, etc. 4Crawler Offroad
can't guarantee all the parts will fit perfectly on any given vehicle.
We will be more than happy to work with you on resolving fitment issues
as they come up. If something looks like it won't fit, please contact us and together we can work on
resolving the issue.
-
If you want to ensure a trouble-free installation, you are more than
welcome to provide a list of stock bolt sizes/lengths and other pertinent information prior to placing
your order.
Its funny how the subject of a body lift can polarize a discussion into
folks who absolutely hate them and folks who like them. I'll admit I've
seen some rather bad examples of body lifted trucks as well as bad
examples of suspension lifts including blocks, cut and welded steering components,
foot long shackles, and other nightmares of questionable engineering.
Some vehicle bodies sit very high on the frame (Nissan and Chevy
pickups come to mind) others, like Toyota, seem to sit very low on the
frame. In fact, at stock height, a 4Runner frame is barely visible
under the body:
Stock <<<<<<< >>>>>>> 3"
Body Lift
In the above photos, you can see my truck when it sat on the stock body
mount bushings and 3 years later with a 3" body lift. I think
there was more "stuff" hanging down below the body before
than after. FYI: Both shots are taken with the same 33x9.50 tires. I do
have nerf bars installed in the after
shot that were not there in the before picture. I replaced the stock
wheel well liners with Lift Lips designed to cover the gap for a
3" body lift.
With the 3" lift:
-
I now have room to fit tall enough shocks so they aren't limiting the
suspension travel
-
I can run a strong nerf bar straight off the frame
-
I can fit a full winch bumper at about the same height as the non-winch
bumper I used to run
-
I've easily gained a foot of clearance at the back of the vehicle by
making a much simpler rear bumper coming straight off the frame
Point is that a body lift can be done in a tasteful manner and can be a
starting point for a whole lot of other vehicle improvements. A body
lift is not a cure-all, either. But as part of a well integrated system
it can be a very useful component. Lest you think the body lift is just
for show, when I stuff a 33x15.50 Swamper TSL/SX tire up in those wheel
wells, I'm happy for every inch of lift that I have:
Both front and rear tires are capable of getting stuffed several inches
into the wheel wells. At one time, I measured only 5" from the
front fender to the top of the rim, meaning I had about 4" of tire
above the lip of the fender.
Folks will list many reasons why a body lift is a bad idea. Mostly
those concerns seem to revolve around poor or incomplete installations.
-
So just like the person who puts on larger tires and then complains of
a "lack of power" in his truck.
-
Well, this is just an incomplete installation, you really should change
the axle gearing to restore the original engine RPM and torque range on
the road.
-
Or a person who installs a suspension lift then complains about drive shaft vibration or CV joint breakage.
-
Again, this is a case of an incomplete installation. You need to
address and correct any drive shaft angle/alignment issues and/or take
steps to reduce CV joint operating angles to reasonable levels.
So, if someone complains that a body lift messed up the shifter
operation, this is another case of an incomplete installation. There
are many solutions available to make shifter operation work as well, if
not better than stock; including shifter
extensions, short throw shift kits, drive train lifts, etc. Or they complain
that there is a gap between the body and bumper. Simple fix is to
install relocation brackets or modify the bumper to close the gap. And
this has the side effect of increasing approach and/or departure angles
on the vehicle, which is another aspect of a body lift many folks
overlook when they say a body lift provides no increase in ground
clearance. While it is true that the frame is not raised, if your front
and/or rear bumpers hang down low, these can limit the size of obstacle
you can get up on or off of, so there is more to "ground
clearance" than the height of the frame or axle above the ground.
Another concern many people have about body lifts is the gap between
the body and frame, most visible in the wheel wells. I run a set of Lift
Lips on my 4Runner. They replace the stock plastic wheel well
liners with a heavy rubber material and cover up to a 3" lift. Here's how I
installed them on my truck. Not only do they fill the unattractive
gap but they also help keep water and mud out of the engine
compartment.
You can also obtain some material from a good hardware store and make
your own. Use something like sheet rubber, pond liner, rubber roll
roofing, sheet vinyl, etc. Remove the old wheel well liner and use it
as a template for cutting the new liners. Draw a parallel line to the
top, spaced down an amount equal to your lift. Then line the old liner
up with the top of the sheet and trace the upper half. Then slide it
down to the line you drew and trace the bottom half. Mark and punch out
any mounting holes and you now have a copy of the liner that will cover
the gap created by the body lift. Reattach it with the factory
hardware. On vehicles where no liners exist from the factory, usually
just a simple rectangular strip of material will suffice. Mark and
drill some mounting holes and attach the liner to the lower lip of the
wheel well.
As an alternative 4Crawler Offroad can supply the wheel well liner raw
material. We offer oil resistant neoprene rubber sheets in two
thicknesses; both standard 1/16" (1.5mm) thickness and a heavy
duty 1/8" (3mm) thickness. Each sheet, typically enough for 1
wheel well, is sized 12" tall x 36" long (305mm x 914mm),
cost is $20.00/sheet in 1/16" thickness and $30.00/sheet in
1/8" thickness. We can also source a fiber reinforced neoprene
rubber sheet that is $30.00/sheet in the 1/16" thickness. That
mateial is more resistant to tearing compared to the plain rubber. Separate shipping as noted here. To include with a
body lift kit order, contact us for total shipping cost. Depending on
the kit ordered and the shipping destination, there may be additional
shipping cost involved.
To make a custom fit wheel well liner, remove the existing wheel well
liner from the vehicle. Lay the top of the liner flush to the top of
the material and trace the upper half. Also, mark all the hole
locations for the mounting hardware. Then mark a few places where the
bottom of the liner sits and then measure down an amount equal to the
height of the body lift, for example 2", from those 2 points. Now
slide the original wheel well liner down to those two new marks and
trace the bottom half of the existing wheel well liner. Now use a pair
of scissors to trim the top and bottom of the material to the lines you
traced and punch holes for attaching the liner to the wheel wells. When
making cuts, be sure to leave no sharp inside corners. Instead, try to
leave about a 1" radius on all the corners to prevent tearing once
the material is installed.
Note, on some vehicles, you may be able to cut two liners from one
sheet, for example the rear wheel wells on a pickup or 4Runner as those
liners are often just a straight piece.
[back to the top]
Since all our body lift kits are custom built to your exact needs, it
is hard to make an easy order form. Feel free to contact 4Crawler
Offroad with your vehicle specs (make, model, year) and your lift needs
(tire size, clearance issues, etc.):
-
State, country or zip code needed for shipping/sales tax calculation:
-
Add 9.0% sales tax for shipments to a California address:
- Automatically added if using the Buy Now buttons below
- If you live outside of California, no sales tax applies
-
Add $15.00 for uninsured or $18.00 for insured
Priority Mail shipping, assuming US delivery, for a total
-
International shipping:
-
Typical cost is US$50.95 to Canada/Mexico and US$81.95 to most other
countries including Australia/New Zealand
-
Specify the year, cab style (regular, extra, double cab), 2WD/4WD and
cab-only or full bed for the Tacoma, various models require slightly
different hardware
-
Questions?
-
Via PayPal:
-
https://www.paypal.com/
-
Login, select: Send Money
-
Recipient = sales@4Crawler.com
-
Hint: Cut and paste this into the Recipient field
-
Enter Amount:
-
Be sure to include shipping and applicable sales tax in the total
-
Select Funds Source (e.g. checking account, credit
or debit card)
-
Using an e-check results in a 3-4 day delay for the funds to clear
Paypal
-
For Transaction Type, select: Goods, Non-Auction
-
Enter Subject/Note describing items desired
-
For example: 2" Body lift for 19xx Toyota 4WD
Tacoma
-
In the Note To Seller field, enter any specific
options you want in the order
-
For example: Kits: D+FB+SE+BS+RB
-
Check for correct shipping address and hit the "Send"
button
-
If in doubt on the address, (or you want to use a different address)
please include the address you want to use in the "NOTE
TO SELLER" field when given the option above.
-
Double check the shipping address before hitting the "Send"
button
-
Notes:
-
Company name will show up as "Visual Diagnostics/4Crawler
Offroad"
-
Feel free to e-mail 4Crawler Offroad to let us know you issued the
payment, although we automatically get an e-mail notification to this
effect.
-
If you prefer, 4Crawler Offroad can issue a PayPal funds
request/invoice as well
-
You should receive a confirmation e-mail from Paypal if the transaction
was successful.
-
If you don't have a Paypal account, its easy to set one up using the
link above, enter your name/address/e-mail and account info.
-
Credit Card via fax/mail: FAX:+01.772.264.8458 or +1.408.564.0801
-
Supply the following information:
-
Name
-
Billing/Shipping address
-
Phone # and e-mail address
-
Credit Card number
-
Expiration Date
-
And the 3 or 4 digit security code on the back (or front) side of the
card
-
Via mail; certified check/money order payable to (US funds):
-
4Crawler Offroad
-
Attn: Roger Brown
-
PO Box 61092
-
Sunnyvale, CA 94088-1092 USA
-
Via USPS-COD (Collect On Delivery - US only) there is an additional
charge for USPS-COD, typically $10.00
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]
Visitor #
858856
since 13.AUG.2001
[Last updated: 29.April.2020]
The latest version of this document may be found at:
//4Crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/BodyLiftKit.shtml
