Truck Tech

As you may have read in a previous issue, in Tony Twiddy’s “Official Business and Announcements” article, I’ve now joined the great team at TCLA as the Truck Tech Editor, so this will be my first official column.

I suppose I should introduce myself. I’ve owned two Toyota 4WD trucks over the years, including a ‘74 FJ-55 and currently an ‘85 4Runner. I was just beginning to fix up the ‘55 when I was forced to sell it, before really getting a chance to take it off-road. I think I used 4WD on it twice in about 6 years. So, when I happened on the 4Runner I now own, I vowed this truck would get off pavement frequently. When I owned the ‘55, it as before the Internet and I was pretty much on my own. When I got the 4Runner in ‘96, I found loads of information on-line (not as much as now by any means) but tried to soak it all up and learn as much as I could. So now, after 7 years of working on my 4Runner and participating in the various on-line forums, I’ve learned a lot about the Toyota mini-trucks. Much of that information is on my web site (http://4crawler.cruiserpages.com/4Runner.shtml - special thanks to Ryan Flowers for hosting the 85+ MB of 4x4 content). Note that the above URL has changed, it is now: http://www.4crawler.com/4Runner.shtml

I recently did an interview for the 4x4Wire.com Toyota section which has a lot of background information, I invite you to have a look: http://www.4x4wire.com/insider/4crawler/

As a reminder, the content of this column is derived from your submissions to the Truck Editor e-mail alias (TruckEditor@tlca.org), so be sure to send any questions/comments/suggestions and I’ll try my best to get them answered.

Hi Roger,

I have been referencing your page with my 88 4runner questions for awhile now:) so helpful! Per some good weather in VT I have had the top off for a few weeks now, put it back on this afternoon and now the rear window is refusing to go up. Not even trying. The wiper motor connected back with no problem. I checked the circuit breaker, but the cab windows are fine. The rear wiper switch is off, window lock isn’t on, and I tried it with the gate locked and unlocked. I tried to turn on the rear wiper motor [I have no arm] and it didn’t move, but that could be b/c the window is down. This weekend I removed the panels and hooked up the rear speakers [which hadn’t been connected since I bought it] - is there any way that could be connected to the window? If you have any thoughts that would be great, I’m pretty handy, but this is new to me. I love this truck so much, even though it’s as stock as can be! I’m a recent layoff victim and need to figure out how to fix this cheap and easy! Could it be the relay module? Like the Williamsburg guy fixed? If so, where is the relay? You said:

“The rear shell has a bolt in the left rear corner that closes a switch, that allows the window to operate. *When out, this prevents the window from operating if the shell is removed.”

Could i have a problem with this bolt? any help would be great, the rain is coming down and i need to fix this!

thanks so much, -- Jen Lorentzen

Hi Jen;

See my page at:

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/RearWindow.shtml

You really need to have all the bolts in place.

[A reply from Jen]

Hi Roger;

I think I’m going to sound like an idiot, but I did not put the bolt “A” back in place because it was [and not - I just tried] going back into the hole. Good to know this isn’t as complicated as I thought. whew. The rest of the bolts are in place, just can’t get it in the threads, and if I do, 2 ratchet turns and it’s out. any ideas? If not I just need to mess with it - maybe take the top off and start over? Seems odd if all the other bolts lined up fine? Thanks so much, sometimes the answer is right in front of you!! -- Jen

Hi Jen;

You need to get all the bolts started before you tighten any down. If they lined up before, they should line up after. If the top has not been pulled far enough forward, tighten up the bolts in the cab a bit to pull the top forward a little.

[And a final reply from Jen:]

Hi Roger;

Window is up! It turns out one bolt was messed up at the bottom, everytime I’d put the top back on one bolt hadn’t worked, usually not a problem [I just left one hole without], but this time it was the last bolt and when it didn’t work in hole “A” and I left hole “A” empty I had window problems. So all i need is a new bolt. Thanks so much, I wouldn’t have figured it out without your help!! -- Jen

Hello Truck Tech Roger...

For a 1981 carbed Toyota 22R, can you verify the exhaust manifold gasket orientation and placement? For instance, can I presume that the gasket with a metal layer goes against the block, metal layer in, then the inner heat shield, then the next gasket which is paper both sides, then the manifold? The air rails are pretty self explanatory except it appears nothing was included for where the rails meet the pipes running behind the engine (you know, the ones that get in the way). Does it matter what way they are installed? What about re-torquing after installation?

Thanks in advance...Tony Twiddy

Hi Tony;

From the Toyota Factory Service Manual for ‘81 truck:

“7. INSTALL EXHAUST MANIFOLD

(a) Install the inner heat insulator and exhaust manifold with the air injector tube or air suction tube. Torque the seven nuts. Torque: 4.0 - 5.0 kg-m (29 - 36 ft-lb)

(b) Install gaskets on the inner heat insulator and install the outer heat insulator with six nuts.

[A reply from Tony]

Hi Roger;

A ha! So the inner heat shield is actually the gasket (and thus so expensive from Toyota). And the Felpro exhaust gasket (which I should have mentioned) thus contains the two gaskets to sandwich the existing inner heat shield. I installed as noted in my original question. Thanks Roger!...Tony Twiddy

Hi Roger;

I’m having problems with the lugs on my 93 4x4 truck. I run 33x10.50s on 15X8 rims on a regular basis. I have 225s on separate rims that I run when I do long road trips, which in Alaska is easy to do. The problem is I keep having problems with the lug nuts binding on the lugs. I end up twisting off the lug just to get the tire off. I make sure I don’t cross thread them when I put them on, I use anti-seize, and I use a torque wrench set to 74ft lbs everytime I tighten the lug nuts on. So my question is...what’s the problem? Any help would be much appreciated. Take care.

Eric W. Anchorage, Alaska

Eric;

I assume your lug nuts are open ended, that is can you see threads of the studs sticking out past the nuts? If so, that is your problem, dirt and mud build up on the exposed threads, when you go to back off the nut, the dirt gets packed into the threads, causing them to gall and strip out. Best bet is to get some closed end nuts (nut stock nuts are this way, they have plastic caps on the ends (at least most of them do). On the ones that are missing caps, I found that if I applied some silicone over the end of the nut, covering the exposed threads, then let it cure fully, the RTV stays in place pretty good. If you don’t want to go to that effort, then carry a small wire brush and carefully clean the ends of all the studs and possibly hit them with a shot of penetrating oil before removeing the nuts.

Common problem, I first heard about it (and the fix) back in the mid-70s when I was working on a forest fire fighting crew, one of the Ford 4x4s we had got a flat, one guy went to remove the lug nuts and snapped off a few of the studs before someone stopped him (the wheels were caked in mud).

Hi Roger;

I just purchased a set of Smittybuilt nerf-bars for my 87 Toy—The problem is the rear mount of the bar goes on the front spring bolt of the rear springs. I need to slide the bolt out of the spring ¼ in so the nerf-bar will slide in place. The bolts won’t budge. Anybody have any ideas how to get the bolt to move??

Thanks—Bill

Bill:

Those bolts tend to rust to the steel sleeve inside the spring bushing. You need to break the grip of the rust to get it out. If its on the driver’s side, try hammering the end of the bolt, leaving the nut on the end. Another option to try is some heat from a torch to heat up the bolt. Or try a thin pry bar between the spring hanger and try to press down on the sleeve while prying against the hanger and bolt head. Often you can get enough pressure on the sleeve for the teeth on it to dig into the opposite side of the hanger and hold it in place so you can turn the bolt and break it free. Some PB Blaster or other penetrating oil might help if you can get it into the sleeve. If all else fails, a Sawzall or cutoff wheel will cut the bolt apart to get it out, then replace it with a 9/16” SAE or M14 bolts.

Note:

If you are searching for, building, modifying, or maintaining a Toyota 4WD truck, send your Truck Tech questions to Roger Brown at <TruckEditor@tlca.org>. He’ll answer your questions with authority!