



[Click here for pix of my former Caddy]
Visitor #
108572
since 08.AUG.2001


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Roger Brown, P.E.
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Located in: Santa Clara, CA. USA
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I used to drive a 1978 VW Rabbit C model; purchased new, German-built!
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It had the 1.5 liter fuel injected 4 cylinder, with over-square
pistons.
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Installed a 4:2:1 tube exhaust header and Monza muffler.
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ATS 13x6 rims with Phoenix 205 60HR 13 rubber - a very excellent tire!.
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Spare tire gas tank gave 24 gallon fuel capacity for 700+ mile range.
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Had front/rear sway bars, lowered front springs and KYB shocks.
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Here's my other vehicle: Project:
4Crawler.
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If you are curious about the above left picture, it was taken at
Gilbert Pass on CA-Hwy 168, east of Big Pine, looking southwest across Deep Springs Valley (in
the foreground), the Inyo Mtns. in the middle and the eastern Sierra
Crest in the distance. The highest peak in the picture is probably Mt.
Pinchot, 13,495 and is about 46 miles distant.
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1982 VW Pickup; A1 chassis
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Also known as the "Caddy"
in other parts of the world
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Its a diesel so I don't have to deal with Smog
Checks!
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261,165 on the clock when I bought it.
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290,000 miles (and counting)
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My best one-day drive is 1044 miles from Eugene, OR - Seattle, WA - San
Jose, CA in 18 hours!
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Color: Mojave Beige, paint code: LE1N
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15 gallon fuel tank
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Currently adding ~13oz. 2-stroke oil and ~3oz. Stanadyne Performance
Formula per fill-up to help with the new low-sulphur
diesel fuel out there.
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Why that mix? Well, Stanadyne is formulated for the low sulphur diesel
and it helps boost cetane rating and 2-stroke oil makes a low cost, low
ash lubricant. Plus, it makes for easy no-measure mixing.
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My "recipe" is to take a gallon of 2-stroke oil (cheaper that
way) and I pour half into an empty gallon jug. Then I pour a 1 pint
bottle of Stanadyne into each 1/2 full jug. So this nets me 5 pints of
mix in each jug.
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Then I simply fill a 1 pint bottle with the mix and add this all to
each tank full of fuel when I fill up.
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Have also been pouring in between 1/2 and 1 gallon of straight
vegetable oil (SVO) in per tank.
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1.9 liter, 4-cylinder naturaly-aspirated indirect-injection diesel
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79.5 mm bore x 95.5 mm stroke = 1896 cc
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22.5:1 compression ratio
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70 HP @ 4200 RPM
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100 lb.ft. @ 2400 RPM
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Engine/tranny swap done by Randy Knoche at Little
Village Automotive
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New 1Y engine from Vege Motoren
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Seems to share most parts with the AAZ engine (1.9TD).
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Vege seems to be affiliated with ATK Engines here in
the US
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In the above left picture, you can see the valve cover breather setup I
run, it consists of:
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A vent fitting from a TDI engine
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The old 1.6" valve cover vent hose attached between the fitting
and air box
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A new hose run from the block breather tube to the TDI fitting.
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In the above right image, you can see the modifications needed to fit
the 1.6L timing belt cover:
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The forward edge was notched and bent out to clear the forward
sprocket.
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A tab and nut were welded to the injection pump bracket and a bolts was
inserted to attach the front of the cover
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The two stock bolts (not pictured) in the front and rear of the head
fit fine.
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Overland
Parts can also supply new 1.9D/TD/TDI engines through their
dealer network.
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GEX
International also carries the 1.9 engines and has some
good technical specs on the engine, too.
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K&N Filtercharger
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Modine heavy duty (#663) 3-row radiator
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Injector pump set to 1.03mm stroke and increased max.load fuel setting
for the larger engine.
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I had no change in fuel economy with the above injector pump mods, but
a HUGE increase in torque and driveability.
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~37 MPG on the highway with my Caddy Shack at
normal speeds, but I did get 44 MPG keeping the speeds under 60 on one
trip.
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Quaife Update:
I really like the Quaife "Automatic Torque Biasing" (a.k.a.
limited slip) differential. It made such a huge difference. With a high
torque diesel engine, coupled with a 3.89 final drive ratio, spinning
the inside tire in a turn was inevitable. In the rain, invariable one
tire would break loose and I'd sit there spinning. Now, you punch it
and GO. You can hear the inside tire trying to break loose a little,
but the outside tire is pulling. You do have to hold on to the steering
wheel, it wants to straighten out. But unlike before, the harder you
turn the wheel the more the vehicle wants to turn. Need to pull out
onto a rain slick roadway, just hit the throttle. Both front tires will
spin a little but then they grab and you are going.
You do feel a little bit of steering input from the throttle,
accelerate and it goes into slight understeer, back off the throttle
and its very slight oversteer. Not bad at all, I think the Quaife is a
lot mellower than the TrueTrac limited
slip I ran in my Toyota 4x4 for a few years and nowhere near as bad as
an automatic lock differential in the same rig. I think this is mainly
due to a lower torque biasing ratio on the Quaife. I was on a snow
covered hill with rocks and had both tires on icy snow, but one tire
was in a bit of a hole. I was unable to load up the brakes to get the
other tire pulling. Had to get both tires fairly equally weighted to
get going. Once on a more even surface, I had no traction problems with
more snow and ice. I was pretty happy with the way it worked in snow.
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Rear:
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Front:
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Heavy-duty coil springs, stock ride height
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Bilstein HD strut inserts
up front, replacing my worn KYBs
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Great shock, firm, but not harsh
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Had one insert go bad, a phone call to Bilstein (1-800-537-1085) and I
had a replacement insert in a couple of days, excellent warranty
service!
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Neuspeed upper strut tie bar
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Scirocco 4-point lower subframe
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Polyurethane
suspension and steering rack bushings.
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The old rubber bushings were firmly attached to the moving wishbones.
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The urethane parts move much more freely and are stiffer to boot.
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The ride is improved, more precise and no sign of harshness.
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I also tried polyurethane engine mounts, but decided they are NOT
a good idea on a diesel :-)
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New OEM
strut bearings
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VW's "Sporty light alloy wheels" (5Jx13 aluminum)
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Bought wheels used w/ nearly new tires for $250
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Had to add the hub caps (at $6.25 each!).
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A dot of super glue works to keep the caps attached to the wheel
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Yokohama
185-70R13 Avid Touring tires
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These tires were nice, got 'em on sale for $38/ea. from Tirerack,
80,000 mile tire
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9.4" vented disk brakes in front
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Mintex "red" brake pads
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Stainless steel front brake lines ready to install
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Stock rear drum brakes
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Stainless steel rear brake lines and rear discs awaiting installation
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Optima 800U
Red Top battery
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Currently installed in the factory location, may ultimately relocate it
to the bed.
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Stock? alternator
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Philips ColorClear blacked-out
headlights with protective wire grill.
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Gives a nice black-out effect when off, blends in with the black grill.
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The internal black metal grill really cuts down on headlight glare.
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It does seem to cut down on the light output slightly.
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Then again, I was running Hellas before!
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The Hellas now live on my 4Runner.
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Unfortunately, Philips no longer makes the ColorClear headlights :(
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An upgraded headlight wiring harness w/ dual relays
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AM/FM/Cassette/CB radio,
Sound Barrier model 1040SD
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70 watt audio w/ removable face plate
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Awaiting install:
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A really nifty manual radiator fan control and indicator light; see schematic.
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A:
B:
C:
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'83 GTI front
seats
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Scirocco
15" leather wrapped steering wheel (see: A)
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Audiovox cruise
control
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Custom A2 center console w/ GPS and gauges (see: A)
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GTi tachometer w/
optical RPM pickup (see: A)
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120MPH speedometer (like I can really go that fast!)
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Autotech A-pillar fairings.
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Replaced useless glue-on wing windows with new bolt-through units.
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Fiberglass front air dam w/ rubber skirt: (see: B)
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Really helps keep the front end down on the ground.
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I backed up the bottom of the dam w/ 1x6 redwood filling the area in
between the dam and the front valence. It has hit the ground on a few
occasions and has suffered no damage.
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The bottom of the rubber skirt is covered with 1/2" polyethylene
irrigation tubing (slit length-wise) to minimize abrasion.
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About every 2 years, the tubing will wear through and need to be
replaced.
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Hand-carved shift knob
salvaged from my '78 Rabbit and '81 Caddy (see: C)
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Carved it while working as a fire lookout during the summer of 1978
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And a custom-built
Caddy Shack out back...
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Replace stock one tube exhaust manifold with dual tube and spacer for
the taller 1.9D block
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Check the port-match on the intake manifold
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I would like to experiment with LPG
fumigation
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Kind of like nitrous for diesels.
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One of the things I like about my pickup is that it makes a great rig
for extended road trips:
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Ouch: 

After a full-size Chevy pickup rammed me while I was stopped at a red
light, pushing me into the car in front of me. The jerk driving the
pickup was obviously not paying attention. My pickup is still
driveable, but I traded it in on a recently rebuilt '82 model w/ 1.9L n/a engine:
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[Last updated: 17.June.2008]

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