MissingLinkZ.com

VW A1/A2/A3 Shift Linkage Upgrades

a product of Visual Diagnostics LLC

Visitor # 165421 since 28.AUG.2001


NOTE: Due to extraordinary high order volume, it may take some time for production and shipments to catch up. Order backlog could be up to 5-6 weeks, so if it bothers you to have your order delayed that long, wait until we catch up before placing your order.

A1-Mk1/A2-Mk1/A3-Mk3 Transmission/Shift Linkage Kits:


NOTE: Due to extraordinary high order volume, it may take some time for production and shipments to catch up. Order backlog could be up to 5-6 weeks, so if it bothers you to have your order delayed that long, wait until we catch up before placing your order.

(Contact Missing LinkZ if interested in more information on any of these items)
And please, Please, PLEASE include a valid reply-to address in your e-mail if you want an answer to your inquiry!!!
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Introduction:

Don't be intimidated by the length and detail of the this web page. Unlike many shift linkage kits where they they just show a picture and one line description of the shift kit, the intention here is to educate you, the customer, as to how the VW shift linkage works, why and how the various components of the upgraded linkage kit were designed and why they might be of interest to you as the end user. This way you can make an educated decision as to what parts you might need and what benefit you can expect from them. If you just want to order the "full kit", you can jump right to that section of the web page...

If you look closely at the water-cooled VW shift linkage, its truly a marvel of mechanical design. It transmits the front-back and side-side motion of the shift lever on the floor of the vehicle into motion on selector shaft of the transmission, to allow shifting gears. Front-back motion of the gear shift is transferred as back-front motion of the shift rod which in turn is translated into left-right rotation of the relay shaft which in turn is translated into a rotation of the selector shaft. Side-side motion of the gear shift is converted to rotation of the shift rod, which is converted to a left-right motion of the rear selector rod then to a front-back motion of the front selector rod which pushes and pulls on the selector shaft of the transmission. Click on the image(s) below for a detailed view of a typical A1 or A2/A3 shift linkage:

A1 shift linkage diagram A2 Shift Linkage diagram
A1: Shift Linkage Diagram A2/A3-020: Shift Linkage Diagram

With all these rods and levers and bushings, its a wonder you can even shift gears at all. In fact, when I recently purchased a used '82 diesel pickup, I pretty much couldn't shift gears at all. Most of the bushings were worn out, the gear shift was not properly aligned on the vehicle and the wrong gear oil was in the transmission.

In the illustration below (courtesy of Anton Allen), you can see how the shift linkage can be made to work at it's optimum level of performance with the various items available on this web page. This is a diagram of the A2 shift linkage, but is similar for the A1 and A3 vehicles:

Shift Linkage operation

Theory of Operation:

The shift linkage is made up of two main parts, the rear part is the shift lever, gates, and reverse lockout and the rear shift rod that runs from the shifter up to the engine bay. This rod both moves back and forth as well as rotates, so has 2 degrees of freedom. The second part of the linkage is the forward linkage. Its purpose is to split up the linear and rotational motion of the main rod into two discrete components.

The selector lever is clamped to the end of the rear shift rod and has a ball stud on the end that converts the rotational motion into a side-side motion that gets transferred via the rear selector rod to the relay lever (or bell crank) which converts the side-side motion to a fore-aft motion which is transferred by the forward selector rod to the selector lever on the transaxle. The selector lever is what "selects" the various sections of the gearing; R, or 1-2, or 3-4, or 5(-6) gear sets.

The second component of the forward shift linkage is that the selector lever has a cage on it that captures a ball attached to a lever off the the relay shaft. This converts the fore-aft motion of the rear shift rod into a rotational motion in the relay shaft. The shaft pivots inside a pair of bushings (i.e. the relay shaft bushings). On the top of the relay shaft is an arm that converts the rotational motion to a side-side motion to which the forward shift rod attaches and then connects to the selector lever on the transaxle. At the selector lever, the side-side motion is converted back to a rotational motion that is used to select between gears within a set, for example 1st or 2nd gear.

If you look at the selector lever on the transaxle itself, the shifting motion is shown below:

Diagram of Gear Selection

---- FRONT/TRANSAXLE ----

            +--> Reverse
            |
2nd gear <--+--> 1st gear
            |
4th gear <--+--> 3rd gear
            |
            +--> 5th gear

----- REAR/FIREWALL -----

This diagram is laid out as you would observe the motion while standing in front of the vehicle looking down at the shift linkage. As such, it will appear to be reversed unless you turn the page upside down.

Background:

When I first got my '82 Caddy, the transmission and clutch were fairly new, but the PO had not done anything with the shift linkage. Shifting was horrible, I could only get into 1st gear at a complete stop and only by shifting into 2nd then repeatedly trying to reach 1st. Every stop light was a race to see if I could find 1st gear before the light changed. So, I set about to fix it:

I went through a lot of time and expense trying various combinations of parts and I think I've finally hit upon the right combination that works well and is both affordable and available. More about how I developed the various components below. If you want to skip to the full kit, click here.

Race tested shift linkage suitable for daily driver use. Listed below are links to various product reviews:

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Short Throw Shift Arm:

I initially had purchased a short throw shift kit from Techtonics Tuning. This was the deluxe kit that came with a full set of shift linkages and bushings. You can see the parts pictured below-left, quite nice quality and it cost me about US$75 or so. In the below-right image, you can see how the short throw linkage is done. The upper arm is the TT arm, the lower is the stock. The rubber ball fits inside the long shift rod from the shift lever in the cab, and gets pushed back and forth as you shift say from 1st to 2nd gear. This causes the arm to pivot about the round rod which pulls and pushes on the relay rod what fits into the hole the end of the arm. TT offers a 12%, 31% and 51% reduced travel points (the 3 holes) compared to the stock arm. I found 12% felt like stock, 31% was nice and I loved 51%.

Unlike some short throw designs that reduce all the shifter motion, this design only reduces the front-back motion, the side-side gate motion is unchanged. This eliminates one major drawback of the shorten-everything kits, in that finding the shift gates is still like stock, only the motion inside the gate is changed. I found the biggest gain was in 5th gear, it is no longer over next to the passenger door, it is now within easy reach.

The TT shift kit Shift arms; TT and stock
A typical deluxe A1 short throw kit TT short throw relay shaft (above) vs. stock (below)

However, after installing the entire kit, it dawned on me that 95% of what I replaced didn't need replacing. In fact only two worn out relay shaft bushings needed replacement, everything else was fine.

What is included in the kit above?

And, it also seemed strange to be replacing stock parts that were badly worn with parts that were essentially the same design as original. If the original part wore out, it must be somehow improperly designed (or not designed for the long lifetime of the vehicle). So why spend time and money swapping in parts that are going to wear out again? I also noticed the quality of the factory hardware was better, for example, the locking nut on the bottom was more secure. Plus, I reasoned that the stock arm (known as the relay shaft) could be lengthened for a lot less $$$ than making a whole new arm. So this got me thinking...

Closeup of stock arm Stock arm w/ short throw shift kit
How about you take the stock relay shaft.... Remove the polyurethane bushing
and make an extension that fits over it..
Assembled short throw arm
Result, instant bolt on short throw shifter!!!

Put the bushing back in and viola, a short throw shift arm with ~25% and ~50% shorter throw points. If you want the stock shifting position, then just remove the arm (or don't buy it in the first place).

Notes:


NOTE: Due to extraordinary high order volume, it may take some time for production and shipments to catch up. Order backlog could be up to 5-6 weeks, so if it bothers you to have your order delayed that long, wait until we catch up before placing your order.

Order on-line, cost for the short throw shifter arm is US$15.00, + shipping:

Short Throw Arm

Order for US delivery, $7.00 for Priority Mail shipping

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Order for International delivery, $13.00 for Priority Mail shipping

If you have worn out relay shaft bushings, you should replace them to get the full benefit of the shortened shifter throw. Replacement bushings, machined from UHMW-PolyEthylene, that are stiffer and more durable than the soft urethane stock units (see below) are an improvement over stock. Add a pair of relay shaft bushings to your short throw arm order for US$10 additional or US$25 extra for Teflon/PTFE bushings:

Short Throw +
1 pair UHMW Relay Shaft Bushings - US$25 + shipping
Short Throw +
1 pair Teflon/PTFE Relay Shaft Bushings US$40 + shipping

Order for US delivery, $7.00 for Priority Mail shipping

---

Order for US delivery, $7.00 for Priority Mail shipping

---

Order for International delivery, $13.00 for Priority Mail shipping Order for International delivery, $13.00 for Priority Mail shipping

Short Throw +
UHMW Relay Shaft Bushings +
A2/A3-020 Relay Shaft Ball Cover (UHMW) - US$35 + shipping
Short Throw +
Teflon Relay Shaft Bushings+
A2/A3-020 Relay Shaft Ball Cover (UHMW) - US$50 + shipping

Order for US delivery, $7.00 for Priority Mail shipping

---

Order for US delivery, $7.00 for Priority Mail shipping

---

Order for International delivery, $13.00 for Priority Mail shipping Order for International delivery, $13.000 for Priority Mail shipping

16V Note:

'88 - 16V Shift Arm

Some VW models have a slightly different shift arm, notably the 1986.5-1988 Scirocco 16V (pictured above). With the bent end on the shift arm, the bolt-on short throw arm will not fit directly. It is easy to adapt the bolt-on arm to fit, by grinding/cutting off one side of the lower clamp, so instead of being "U" shaped, it is now "L" shaped. If specified at the time of ordering, a modified short throw shifter clamp can be provided for an additional $5.

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Adjustable Short Throw Arm:

By combining the bolt on short throw arm with the ball stud mounts for the Missing LinkZ adjustable shift rods (see below), I'm now able to offer a fully adjustable short throw arm. By simply moving the ball stud from one end of the milled slot to the other, you can select any degree if shift throw reduction desired. The adjustment can be done with a pair of 13mm wrenches from the top of the engine bay.


NOTE: Due to extraordinary high order volume, it may take some time for production and shipments to catch up. Order backlog could be up to 5-6 weeks, so if it bothers you to have your order delayed that long, wait until we catch up before placing your order.

50% reduction 37% reduction 25% reduction
~50% reduction ~37% reduction ~25% reduction
Adjustable Short Throw - A1 shown
Adjustable Short Throw

Note that the adjustable short throw arm must be used with some form of ball-stud-based shift rod. It will not work with the stock A1, A2 or A3-020 shift rods. It will work with the TSR linkage or with the MissingLinkZ as pictured above. For details on pricing of the adjustable short throw arm and the other Missing LinkZ shift linkage components, consult the pricing and options section.

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A1/A2 Weighted Shift Rod Kit:

So, I had all new shift bushings and this way-cool short throw shift kit. Life was good, the shifting was so much better than the hit or miss (mainly miss) shifting that I had before. However, one drawback of a short throw shifter is that you are trading motion for effort. That is the shift rod is moving just as far between 1st and 2nd gear, that's how the transmission works. However, you are only moving the gear shift lever 1/2 as far as before, you don't get something for nothing. The thing you lose is force, you only have 1/2 as much leverage on the shift rod as before.

The way to make up for the lost force is to look at the physics of the situation. Force is a mass times an acceleration. Since the transmission end of the linkage probably can't be made to move any faster than it already does (the syncros need time to work) the speed and thus the acceleration of the shift rod can't really change that much. However, the mass can. The stock rod is just a length of ~5/16" dia. steel rod with some plastic ends, plenty strong but not much in the way of mass. So, I knew places that made weighted shift rods, Autotech Sport Tuning has one, a sleek, powder coated job, but they want US$50 for a hunk of steel!

Shifter weight installed

So, I found some 1.25" cold rolled steel, cut off about 1.5 lbs. length of it, milled a groove in the top, and used a hose clamp to connect it to the shift rod. Works great and the shifting feel is so much nicer. The extra weight adds a solid feel to the shift and the momentum of the steel weight pushes the transmission into gear with little effort on the shifter.

Notes:
A3-020 vehicles have a weighted shift rod from that factory, so the clamp-on weight can't be used unless you install the non-weighted A2 style rod.
While the weight is pictured attached to a stock shift rod, this is only to illustrates its operation. Only the weight and the clamp is supplied in the kit

If you want to experience the joys of weighted shifting, one can be yours for US$20 plus US$7.00 for domestic or $13.00 for international shipping (weight approx. 1.5 lbs).


NOTE: Due to extraordinary high order volume, it may take some time for production and shipments to catch up. Order backlog could be up to 5-6 weeks, so if it bothers you to have your order delayed that long, wait until we catch up before placing your order.

Shifter weight installed Shifter weight installed

Order a clamp-on shift weight, US delivery Order a clamp-on shift weight, International delivery

If purchased with the short throw kit, above, both can be yours for US$30 + US$7.00 for domestic or $13.00 for international shipping:

Short Throw plus clamp on shift weight Short Throw plus clamp on shift weight

A1/A2 Weighted Short Throw Kit, US delivery A1/A2 Weighted Short Throw Kit, International delivery

If you have worn out relay shaft bushings, you should replace them to get the full benefit of the shortened, weighted shifter throw. Replacement bushings, machined from UHMW-PolyEthylene, that are stiffer and more durable than the soft urethane stock units (see below) are an improvement over stock. Add a pair of relay shaft bushings to your weighted short throw arm order for US$10 additional or US$25 extra for Teflon/PTFE bushings:


NOTE: Due to extraordinary high order volume, it may take some time for production and shipments to catch up. Order backlog could be up to 5-6 weeks, so if it bothers you to have your order delayed that long, wait until we catch up before placing your order.

A1/A2 Weighted Short Throw w/ Teflon Bushings A1/A2 Weighted Short Throw w/ Teflon Bushings

A1/A2 Weighted Short Throw
w/ UHMW Bushings
- US$40 + US$7.00 for US shipping
A1/A2 Weighted Short Throw
w/ Teflon Bushings
- US$55 + US$7.00 for US shipping
~~~ ~~~

A1/A2 Weighted Short Throw
w/ UHMW Bushings
- US$40 + US$13.00 for International shipping
A1/A2 Weighted Short Throw
w/ Teflon Bushings
- US$55 + US$13.00 for International shipping
- Picture pending - - Picture pending -

A2 Weighted Short Throw
w/ UHMW Bushings and Ball Cover
- US$50 + US$7.00 for US shipping
A2 Weighted Short Throw
w/ Teflon/PTFE Bushings and UHMW Ball Cover
- US$65.00 + US$7.00 for US shipping
~~~ ~~~

A2 Weighted Short Throw
w/ UHMW Bushings and Ball Cover
- US$50 + US$13.00 for International shipping
A2 Weighted Short Throw
w/ Teflon/PTFE Bushings and UHMW Ball Cover
- US$65.00 + US$13.00 for International shipping

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Billet Weighted Shift Rod:

While the above shift weight is perfectly functional, it does lack something in the way of looks :-) For folks with the TSR or MissingLinkZ shift linkage, with the all-metal rod ends, who may want to have something a bit more fitting of their linkage, Missing LinkZ has developed a billet steel weighted shift rod:


NOTE: Due to extraordinary high order volume, it may take some time for production and shipments to catch up. Order backlog could be up to 5-6 weeks, so if it bothers you to have your order delayed that long, wait until we catch up before placing your order.

TSR weighted shift rod
Clamp-on weighted rod (top)
Billet weighted rod (bottom)

Pictured above, is the stock shift rod with a clamp-on shift weight attached. Below, is the all-in-one weighted shift rod with the rod ends installed. The weighted rod is machined from one solid piece of a special lead-bearing steel (a more dense, heavier steel alloy), the ends are tapered down to 8mm and tapped to match the thread pitch of the metric rod ends. The shift weight weighs in at 1.5 - 1.7 lbs. total.

If interested in adding a weighted shift rod to your TSR shift linkage, let us know. The rod is threaded with the same thread pitch as the TSR rod ends use, just remove the ends from your TSR or Missing LinkZ linkage, install them on the weighted rod and you are done. Priced the same as the kit version of the weighted rod, US$35.00 plus shipping ($7.00 US or $13.00 international). For use in stand-alone applications (i.e. to replace the stock shift rod), the cost is US$50.00 plus shipping ($7.00 US or $13.00 international).

And for A3 vehicles (or A2 vehicles w/ the A3 weighted shift rod installed), a conversion kit is available for US$15.00 which lets you convert your factory weighted shift rod to the balls stud/socket style rod ends. You'll need to cut the bent ends off the A3 weighted rod and thread about 1" of each end with an M8-1.25 thread cutting die (die available at an additional cost). Then simply thread on the jam nuts and rod ends and you have a weighted shift rod ready to install.

So what does it look like installed?

Weighted shift rod w/ linkage installed A2 Solid shift linkage w/ weighted rod
A1 Solid shift linkage w/
billet weighted rod installed
A2/A3-020 Solid shift linkage w/
billet weighted rod installed

And how does it work? All I can say is WOW!. I never realized how sloppy the stock setup was. Even with all new bushings, (which made a huge difference) is was better but still imprecise. Now, the shifter clicks in and out of gear.

For installation information, see the Missing LinkZ installation section.

>>> Contact Missing LinkZ for more information or to order the clamp on or billet shift rod weight <<<

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Missing LinkZ Shift Linkage Upgrade Kit:

I really liked the TSR shift linkage kit with the upgrades I had done to it. However, it took months and months to order with the group buy from the UK. So with some research and design work, I was able to locate sources for all the components necessary to build a complete shift linkage kit. I also was able to fill in the missing parts in the original TSR linkage, including steel bushings to attach the new ball studs to the existing linkage, the short throw arm, the weighted shift rod, upgraded bushings, etc.

I call the linkage "Missing LinkZ" because I feel it incorporates all the design elements that are missing from the original VW design. Their design was probably constrained by economics and mass production issues and was adequate for the majority of vehicle owners. However after 10-20 years (or more) of use, the weaknesses of the stock linkage show through. Its sloppy, prone to wear and even if rebuilt with stock parts, rapidly returns to sloppiness. I imagine the fully-adjustable, all metal linkage was used in the engineering/design phases of the vehicle development. It was probably only in the final stages that the bean counters took over and reduced cost by replacing expensive metal parts with inexpensive molded plastic. By reversing the process, the true operation of the 020 shift linkage can truly be experienced. I doubt VW engineers were contemplating folks autocrossing the lowly Golf when it was first designed. It was an econo-box; a fuel efficient commuter car, not a racy sports car. However, VWs are raced and look under the hood of most race VWs and you'll not see the stock shift linkage. Metal replaces plastic, adjustable replaces fixed, secure mechanical fasteners replace friction fits, etc.

Stock linkage above, solid linkage below
A1 Front selector rod,:
Stock above, all-metal below

Above is an example of a stock shift linkage component and the all-metal replacement linkage. The stock linkage has plastic rod ends that are bonded to the rod, making them non-adjustable. The replacement linkage, uses identical 13mm ball socket rod ends which are both spring loaded and have an additional safety clip that securely fasten the socket to the ball stud, unlike the stock plastic rod ends which only have a pressure clip on the end. Unlike the stock link, the replacement rod ends are on a fully threaded stainless steel rod and are fully adjustable for length and angle. Once set up, jam nuts keep them locked in position. Beware of some brands of adjustable linkages that OMIT the jam nut.

The adjustability is an important feature of the design. Due to variations in vehicles and transmissions, some links may need to be slightly longer or shorter than the fixed OEM links. For example I found that my '82 needed the above link lengthened about 2.5mm (2 turns out) to shift properly in 1st and 2nd gear. Now, you *could* do this adjustment by loosening the selector lever clamp on the shift rod and rotate is slightly and tighten the clamp back down. The problem is the precision needed to make this adjustment is on the order of 1° - 2° to affect a similar length change. Very hard to do this, especially laying on your back, under the car in poor light and without any way to measure the adjustment. I'd rather just get it close then fine tune it from above.

A1 Shift Improver Kit A2 shift linkage kit /w UHMW bushings
Typical A1 kit showing:
- Solid shift linkage
- Billet weighted shift rod
- Short throw arm
(UHMW bushings not shown)
As shown US$90
Typical A2/A3-020 kit showing:
- Solid shift linkage
- Billet weighted shift rod
- Short throw arm
- UHMW bushings
As shown US$100,
- w/ ball bushing US$110

Pictured above are examples of the Missing LinkZ shift kit, including weighted shift rod with ball studs, replacement front and rear selector rods with 13mm socket rod ends, all fully adjustable for length, plus a bolt-on short throw shifter arm, offering 25% and 50% shift throw reductions. Contact me for more information.

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NOTE: Due to extraordinary high order volume, it may take some time for production and shipments to catch up. Order backlog could be up to 5-6 weeks, so if it bothers you to have your order delayed that long, wait until we catch up before placing your order.

Shift Linkage Kit Options/Pricing:

Show below is a listing of all the separate shift linkage upgrade parts available. Also some typical shift linkage kit combinations are shown further down this section of the web page:

You are not imited to the kits shown above, they are just some tyipcal combinations of the parts below. Feel free to mix-n-match any set of parts from the table below. The price of your kit can be determined simply by adding up the prices of the individual components.

Component: Price ($US) (7) w/ Kit (2,7)
Discount
Application
Solid Shift Linkage $45.00 (1,3) $45.00 A1/A2/A3 (3)
2-pos. Short Throw Arm $15.00 $10.00 A1/A2/A3
Adjustable S/T Arm $25.00 (6) $20.00 A1/A2/A3
Relay Shaft Bushings/UHMW $15.00 $10.00 A1/A2/A3
Relay Shaft Bushings/Teflon $30.00 $25.00 A1/A2/A3

A1 Shift Rod Bearing/UHMW

$20.00 $15.00 A1/5spd

A1 Shift Rod Bearing/Teflon

$35.00 $30.00 A1/5spd

A2/3 Shift Rod Bearing/UHMW

$20.00 $15.00 A2/A3

A2/3 Shift Rod Bearing/Teflon

$35.00 $30.00 A2/A3

A1/5-Speed: Relay Shaft Lever Ball:

$15.00 $10.00 A1

A2/A3 Relay Shaft Ball Cover/UHMW

$15.00 $10.00 A2/A3

A2/A3 Relay Shaft Ball Replacement/UHMW

$25.00 $20.00 A2/A3

Billet Weighted Shift Rod

Application:

Order for US delivery, $7.00 shipping

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Application:

Order for International delivery, $13.00 shipping
$50.00 (5) $35.00 A1/A2/A3

Clamp-on Shift Rod Weight

Order for US delivery, $7.00 shipping

----------------------------

Order for International delivery, $13.00 shipping
$20.00 (5) $15.00 A1/A2

Replacement Ball Studs

$5.00/ea. (4) $5.00/ea. A1/A2/A3

Replacement Safety Clips for
Ball Socket Rod Ends:

$1.00/ea. $1.00/ea. A1/A2/A3

A3 Weighted Shift Rod Conversion Kit
- adds ball stud/socket rod ends to factory shift weight
- Can also be used on A1 or A2 non-weighted rod to convert that to rod end style

$15.00 $15.00 A3 weight
or A2 w/
A3 weight

A1 4-speed Selector Lever Extension

$25.00 $20.00 A1 4-speed
to 5-speed
swap

A1 Relay Lever Shim

$ 1.00 $ 1.00 A1

Neoprene Washers
- Can use 1 or 2 per rod end on stock or metal rod ends

$0.75/ea. $0.75/ea A1/A2/A3

Notes:

  1. Basic solid shift linkage kit includes the unweighted shift rod
  2. Indicates a US$5.00 discount if purchased as part of a solid linkage kit (as reflected in the 3rd column of the table)
  3. For custom applications, individual links are available for US$15/ea. for the rear and front selector rods and US$20 for the forward shift rod.
    1. For example, if you already have a weighted shift rod you like, you could get just the front and rear selector rods for US$30.
    2. It is also possible to mix-n-match linkage parts (A1 vs. A2), for example putting an A2 transaxle into an A1 vehicle.
      1. The linkage will be a mix of A1 and A2 parts, the selector rods will be the A2-style (since they are attached to the transaxle), the shift rod and relay shaft A1-style (since they are attached to the vehicle sub-frame).
    3. For the A3 platform, you can use the rear selector rod ($15) and the main shift rod ($20) from the A2 kit
  4. Replacement ball studs are only needed to replace ball studs on the factory linkage, for example on the transaxle selector shaft or the relay lever. You would need to drill out the old rusted ball stud (they are pressed in) and then bolt on the replacement stud
  5. While both the clamp-on and billet shift rod weights are listed above, you would only use one or the other, not both
  6. The adjustable short throw arm MUST be used with some form of ball stud shift rod, like the TSR or Missing LinkZ linkage (however the 2-position short throw arm can be used universally)
  7. For custom orders, if you don't see a bundled kit that includes the exact mix of parts you want, no problem:
    1. You can order the separate items you want and the combined order will be shipped together and any excess postage will be refunded.
    2. Just make a list of the parts you want, add up the prices for those parts from the table above and add applicable sales tax and shipping and place the order as noted below:
    3. Shipping extra and CA residents add applicable sales tax
      1. Typical shipping cost is $7.00 for domestic (US addresses) and $13.00 to international addresses.
      2. International shipping (US$5.00 additional) must be added to the typical A1/A2/A3 kits below:
        1. In the mean time, only domestic shipping is pre-computed, contact MissingLinkZ for international order options
    4. Or see the multiple item ordering section of the main MissingLinkZ web page

And if you don't see a pre-packaged on-line orderable version of the parts you want, use the table above to put together the exact combination and quantity of parts you want then contact MissingLinkZ and we can work out the details. Also, if you don't want to use PayPal, again contact MissingLinkZ and I'll provide you with other ordering arrangements, or consult the multiple item ordering section of the main MissingLinkZ web page.

Here are some examples of various combinations possible with this shift kit:

Hint, hold your cursor over the image of the kit you are interested in, and a description of the kit components and the cost will pop up, assuming your web browser supports the image ALT text label feature.


NOTE: Due to extraordinary high order volume, it may take some time for production and shipments to catch up. Order backlog could be up to 5-6 weeks, so if it bothers you to have your order delayed that long, wait until we catch up before placing your order.

Typical A1 Shift Kit Combinations

A1 Solid Linkage Kit - $45.00 A1 Linkage + clamp on weight - $55.00 A1 Linkage w/ billet weight - $80.00 A1 Linkage w/ short throw arm - $90.00 A1 Full Kit w/ UHMW bushings - $100.00

A1a: ($45 + US shipping)

A1b: ($60 + US shipping)

A1c: ($80 + US shipping)

A1d: ($90 + US shipping)

A1e: ($100 + US shipping)

A1a: ($45 + Int'l shipping)

A1b: ($60 + Int'l shipping)

A1c: ($80 + Int'l shipping)

A1d: ($90 + Int'l shipping)

A1e: ($100 + Int'l shipping)

Typical A2 Shift Kit Combinations

A2 Linkage - $45.00 A2 Linkage w/ clamp on weight - $55.00 A2 Linkage w/ billet shift weight - $80.00 A2 Linkage w/ short throw arm - $90.00 A2 Full Kit w/ UHMW bushings - $100.00

A2a: ($45 + US shipping)

A2b: ($60 + US shipping)

A2c: ($80 + US shipping)

A2d: ($90 + US shipping)

A2e: ($100 + US shipping)

A2a: ($45 + Int'l shipping)

A2b: ($60 + Int'l shipping)

A2c: ($80 + Int'l shipping)

A2d: ($90 + Int'l shipping)

A2e: ($100 + Int'l shipping)

Typical A3-020 Shift Kit Combinations:

A3 Linkage - $30.00 A3 Linkage w/ clamp on weight - $40.00 A3 Linkage w/ billet shift weight - $65.00 A3 Linkage w/ short throw arm - $75.00 A3 Full Kit w/ UHMW bushings - $85.00

A3a: ($30 + US shipping)

A3b: ($45 + US shipping)

A3c: ($65 + US shipping)

A3d: ($75 + US shipping)

A3e: ($85 + US shipping)

A3a: ($30 + Int'l shipping)

A3b: ($45 + Int'l shipping)

A3c: ($65 + Int'l shipping)

A3d: ($75 + Int'l shipping)

A3e: ($85 + Int'l shipping)

Notes:

Shipping on all the above kits run US$7.00 in the US and $13.00 to most major countries serviced byUS Priority Mail service

The Missing LinkZ components are all metal, aside from the pivot bushings on the relay shaft arm. All the shift rods are fully adjustable for length to allow for fine-tuning shifting performance./P>

Billet weighted shift rod is machined out of one piece of cold rolled steel and weighs approx. 1.5 lbs. It adds mass to the shift linkage for improved operation in short throw applications.

UHMW relay shaft bushings are more rigid than stock, for a more precise shift linkage operation.

You can mix-n-match parts of this kit. The UHMW bushings work fine with the stock shift linkage, the short throw arm can be added, the shift weight can be clamped on. The solid shift linkage can replace the stock linkage. You are not limited to the combinations shown above, they are just examples of what can be done.

Notes:

  1. Not pictured are any of the A2/3 kits(above) with the replacement UHMW relay shaft ball cover. It may be added to any of the A2/3 kits for an additional US$10.00
  2. See this section for some other kit combinations
  3. Don't see a pre-packaged kit with the exact combination of parts you want, no problem, send us an e-mailwith a list of the items you are looking for.

Hint:

One of the key features of the Missing LinkZ shift linkage is that is is very flexible in the way it can be installed. When running a short throw shifter, the relay shaft end of the shift rod is moved closer to the engine block. However, in the stock configuration, the shift rod connects the back side of the selector lever on the transaxle (see lower left image). This tends to make the rod run at an angle, which in turn can make the shifting less precise and magnify any play in the linkage and end bushings. However, by simply flipping the ball stud to face towards the transaxle, instead of away from it, the shift rod is now in near perfect alignment with the relay shaft end. It not only look better, it works better and costs nothing to do (see lower right image).

shift rod in stock configuration shift rod on front of selector lever
Stock configuration Rod on front of selector lever

* All prices in US$ and do not include shipping, which is extra - US$7.00 or under for US destinations US$7-$9 outside the US *

>>> Special offer for , free US shipping on shift linkage orders over US$80. <<<
Just mention your screen name when ordering
Not a Vortex member? Same offer extended for DCI forum,
ClubGTI forum*, Edition38 forum*,
and the Scirocco-L, VWpickups VWdiesels mailing list members:
Just tell us what forum or mailing list you are on and your member name there
And in the military? Same offer, free shipping to an US or APO address on orders over US$80
Just mention your affliation at the time of ordering and the shipping charges will be refunded.
* With the recent postage increase for international shipments, those orders will be refunded US$5.00 upon shipment on parts orders over US$80.00.

>>> Contact MissingLinkZ for more information or to order the shift linkage kit <<<

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Relay Shaft Bushings:

One of the critical parts of the VW shift linkage system is the relay shaft. Its purpose is to convert a front-back motion of the shift rod into a side-side motion of the arm at the end of the relay shaft. There is a boxed in bracket on the end of the shift rod into which a rubber-covered lever rides. The lever is attached to the relay shaft. Essentially, the rod pushes and pulls on the lever which causes the relay shaft to rotate which causes the end of the arm to push and pull on the selector shaft on the transmission itself.

The factory setup uses a pair of soft polyurethane bushings in the relay shaft bracket to hold the relay shaft rod vertical and allow it to pivot. Over time, the polyurethane bushings break down and split allowing the relay shaft to "rack" in the bracket, losing some of the shifter input motion, which leads to missed shift, say from 1st to 2nd gear. New factory bushings will help "tighten" up the relay shaft, to some degree. However, I found when I replaced mine, while it initially felt tight (at least less sloppy than with the worn out bushings) it still racked a bit. I could place one hand on the top of the relay shaft and manipulate the selector shaft rod and feel the racking.

UHMW vs. stock bushings
UHMW-PE vs. stock bushings

Not satisfied with the "squishy" polyurethane, I wanted to find a better solution. I've had extensive experience using a material known as Ultra High Molecular Weight Poly Ethylene (UHMW-PE). It is widely used in industrial applications as a bearing and wear surface material. It is a dense plastic, self-lubricating (like Teflon/PTFE but much less expensive), is resistant to most petroleum products, and can tolerate 200°F and higher temps. In the picture above, you can see the UHMW bushings on the left and the stock bushings they replace on the right. I had to make a few design modifications for the new material.

  1. Since the bushing material is rigid, you can't "squeeze" it into the bracket hole like the OEM polyurethane version. Instead, the bushing it turned to the exact size of the hole. A radial slit can be cut in it to allow it to be compressed a bit to fit into the hole. When the relay shaft is inserted, it'll expand and lock into place in the bracket.
    1. Alternately, to make the bushing fit tighter, you can slit the bushing radially with a fine bladed saw, opposite the set screw, and then wrap the outside of the small section with electrical tape to pull the bushing ID inward. With the saw kerf removed, the ID of the bushing will shrink and the tape on the outside will increase the OD slighly. Repeat until the bushing fits snug but still allows for free relay shaft motion.
  2. A small screw serves to keep the bushing stationary in the bracket while the shaft rotates in the bushing.

I have observed minor variations in relay shaft diameters, some are 14mm, some aftermarket ones are 9/16" and they can vary between A1 and A2/A3-020 vehicles. So, I drill the center hole in the bushing to fit properly on the smallest OD shaft I've found. If it feels a bit tight on another shaft, it is a simple matter to use a file or a roll of sandpaper to slightly enlarge the bushing to fit properly. I also find that an application of a graphite or moly grease to the inside of the bushing helps both installation and initial operation.

These bushings are designed to fit A1, A2 and A3-020 vehicle applications, gas or diesel engine, 4- or 5-speed transaxles.

Order this replacement part on-line for US$15.00/pair plus $2 for shipping world-wide:

A2/A3 owners, see the A2/A3 Relay Shaft Ball Coversection for a special package.

[]


NOTE: Due to extraordinary high order volume, it may take some time for production and shipments to catch up. Order backlog could be up to 5-6 weeks, so if it bothers you to have your order delayed that long, wait until we catch up before placing your order.

For use with turbo-charged engines and/or high heat header applications (especially on the A1 chassis - note the exhaust down pipe about 2" from the relay shaft, we have an extreme duty replacement pivot bushing made of Teflon (Poly-Tetra-Fluoro-Ethylene), which can operate to temps of -350F to +500° F. This is 250° F higher than either the stock polyurethane or UHMW replacement bushings. Bushings will be available at a price of US$30/pr. and since Teflon/PTFE has a lower coefficient of friction than UHMW (0.05 vs. 0.15) shifting is smoother and lighter. Teflon/PTFE also has a much more pronounced slick or greasy feel to it. The Teflon bushings may appear as below, or may be a solid, opaque white color, depending on the particular type of Teflon used to mfg. the bushings. The above properties also apply to the Teflon shift rod bearing as compared to the UHMW Shift Rod Bearing. One additional note is that the Teflon material machines a lot smoother than the UHMW material, so if visual appearance of the bushings is important to you, by all means order the Teflon parts.

Teflon/PTFE bushings
Extreme Duty Teflon/PTFE bushings

These bushings are designed to fit A1, A2 and A3-020 vehicle applications, gas or diesel engine, 4- or 5-speed transaxles.

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A1/A2/A3 Shift Rod Bearing:

In the A1 chassis, there is one bushing that is located inside a steel bracket called the shift rod bearing. It is not designed for replacement without replacing the entire metal bracket (and that bracket is hard to find and even if found is very expensive: p/n 171.711.194G for the 5 speed linkage) at least until now! And don't make the mistake of purchasing an "orange" shift rod bearing for an A2 or A3 vehicle. It will not work in the A1 shift linkage very well as the A1 uses a 14mm dia. shift rod and the A2/3 vehicles use a 16mm dia. shift rod. The MissingLinkZ A1 shift rod bearing is sized to fit the 14mm A1 shift rod.

On the A2 and A3 chassis, there is a replacement "orange" bushing available, but it is prone to failure after a few years, probably due to its' proximity to the hot exhaust. A properly sized shift rod bearing to replace the soft "orange" bushing is now available for the A2 and A3 vehicles.

Missing LinkZ is now offering an upgraded shift rod bearing designed to replace the worn out stock bearing while re-using your existing bracket. This results in a great cost savings over purchasing the entire bracket from the dealer and the replacement bushing is made from the same tough and slippery UHMW-PE or Teflon (PTFE) material as the relay shaft bushings for long-last and maintenance-free installation.

A1/5spd Shift Rod Bearing:

Worn Shift Rod Bearing Worn Shift Rod Bearing Disassembled
A: Worn shift rod bearing B: Bearing disassembled
New Shift Rod Bearing New Shift Rod Bearing Installed
C: New shift rod bearing D: New bearing installed
Note:
The A1 shift rod bearing will only work in the 5-speed bracket, the 4-speed bracket uses a totally different part. It should be possible to swap a 5-speed bracket in place of the 4-speed bracket if you want to install the upgraded shift rod bearing on a 4-speed linkage.

A2/A3 Shift Rod Bearing:

For the A2 and A3 chassis, the shift rod bearing is contained inside the relay shaft tower. It is easiest to remove the tower from the vehicle and service it on the bench.

A2/3 Shift Rod Bearing Installation A2/3 Shift Rod Bearing Installed
A: A2/3 Shift Rod Bearing Install B: A2/3 Shift Rod Bearing Installed

Note: Pictures above shown with relay shaft bushings, they are not included in the shift rod bearing kit, but it is a good time to replace those bushings as well. Also, the stock bushings are shown (the pale white relay shaft bushings and the orange shift rod bearing) to illustrate the parts that are replaced and they are also not included in the kit.

On-line Ordering:

The only difference between the A1 and A2/A3 parts is that the A1 shift rod is a smaller diameter than the A2/A3 shift rod. As such, the hole in the middle of the bearing is sized accordingly. Pictured below are the stock A1 and A2/3 shift rod bearings (white and orange polyurethane parts, upper-center) and the replacement parts for each chassis in UHMW and Teflon/PTFE material. The Teflon/PTFE bushings are slightly larger and more spherical in shape that the UHMW bushings and so provide a slightly tighter fit inside the bracket.

Cost for the replacement shift rod bearing in UHMW is $US20.00, and in Teflon/PTFE, $35.00 plus $2 for shipping, world-wide:

A1/5spd-Teflon Shift Rod Bearing: US$35.00:

A2/A3-Teflon Shift Rod Bearing: US$35.00:

A1/5spd-UHMW Shift Rod Bearing: US$20.00:

A2/A3-UHMW Shift Rod Bearing: US$20.00:

Note: Shift rod bearing bracket shown for clarity only, it is not included with the kit, only the white UHMW bushing and the new fasteners are part of the kit. You re-use your existing bracket.Installation notes may be found here...

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A1 Relay Shaft / Lever Replacement Ball:

Now available is a replacement for the lever that attaches to the bottom of the relay shaft on the A1 shift linkage. Unlike the A2/3 part (below), the OEM lever has a rubber ball molded onto a steel lever that attaches to the base of the relay shaft. The rubber ball is not designed to be replaced and is subject to wear and tear being that is is located just inches from the hot exhaust.

One key feature of the lever is the precisely machined slotted hole that mates to the rectangular stud on the end of the relay shaft. If that is not a good fit (a common issue with after market replacement levers), the lever will fit loosely on the relay shaft. In that case, it will tend to work loose in use and eventually fall off. So it is critical that a good fitting lever be used. So, if you have a lever that fits well and the rubber ball falls apart, what do you do?

Simple, just cut off the old rubber ball (shown removed in far right image below) and press on a new tough replacement ball made of Delrin. The replacement ball is precision machined to exactly match the diameter of the stock ball and also to fit over the knurled end of the lever, shown in the far left image below./P>

Delrin Replacement Ball for Relay Shaft Lever Removing Rubber Ball
A1 Lever Replacement Ball Stock Rubber Ball Removed

In this manner, you retain the good fit of the relay shaft lever that you currently have and simply replace the worn out rubber ball end with a tough, long lasting Delrin replacement. Order below, cost is US$15.00 plus shipping:

A1/5-Speed: Relay Shaft Lever Ball US$15.00:

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A2/A3 Relay Shaft Ball Cover:

A: A2/A3 Relay shaft w/ worn ball B: Worn ball slit and removed C: New A2/A3 bushing pressed in place

The A2/A3 relay shaft is a little bit different than the A1. The same relay shaft bushings work just fine on the A2/A3 shaft. The A2/A3 relay shaft also has a two part ball that has a rubber cover molded over a nylon core that in turn is pressed onto a shaft welded to the middle of the relay shaft. Over time, the rubber outer ball cover deteriorates and falls apart. As it gets smaller, there is more and more play between it and the selector lever. In the extreme, the outer coating can disappear all together leaving nearly 1/2" of free play in the main shift rod, which is almost its full range of back and forth travel, so gear shifting is nearly impossible.

NOTES:
Relay shaft is not included with the ball cover kit
Picture C shows a ball cover by itself to the lower left and installed, only one cover is included per kit.
Actual ball cover is typically available in a gray colored UHMW instead of the white UHMW material as pictured

One option is to purchase a new relay shaft (VW p/n: 191-711-173B) at a cost of about US$40. As of January 2002, another option is to use a UHMW polyethylene cover that can be press fit over the inner nylon core, after first removing any remnants of the original outer cover. The new cover is cylindrical for a greater wear surface and with the self-lubricating nature of the UHMW-PE material, it should last for a very long time. It is resistant to motor oil and can tolerate the same temperature range as the original polyurethane compound. The ball cover is typically available in a gray colored version made of oil-filled UHMW, but that will vary depending on material availability. The physical properties of the two materials are the same. This part is not currently available in Teflon primarily due to the added cost of the material and that Teflon would provide no real added benefit to justify approx. 5 times the cost over the UHMW material.

By not replacing the existing relay shaft, the cost is less than replacing the entire unit. It can be ordered on-line below for US$15 plus $2 for shipping world-wide:

The above part fits over the existing nylon core on the relay shaft, after removing any remnants of the original rubber ball cover (if present). If the nylon core is damaged or even missing, you would instead want the full A2/A3 replacement ball kit, below.

Upgrade all the relay shaft bushings, including the ball and the pair of bushings the shaft rotates in for US$25 (below left) or upgrade to Teflon/PTFE relay shaft bushings for US$40 (below right):


NOTE: Due to extraordinary high order volume, it may take some time for production and shipments to catch up. Order backlog could be up to 5-6 weeks, so if it bothers you to have your order delayed that long, wait until we catch up before placing your order.

UHMW set - US$25:
A2 UHMW Bushing Set
Teflon set - US$40:
A2 UHMW Bushing Set

A2 Relay Shaft bushing set installed
A2/A3 Relay Shaft Bushing Set

Interestingly, this must have been a good idea, since now other mfgs. have offered a similar part. Only difference we see is in the price :)/P>

Notes:
If your relay shaft ball is worn to the point that the inner nylon core is chewed up, wecan custom drill in inside of the bushing to fit a smaller than normal (21.5mm) core. The replacement "ball cover" relies on a tight press fit for installation.
Likewise, the outer diameter of the ball cover is a little over 34mm, matching that of the OEM rubber ball cover. If the cage on the relay shaft is too big or too small to fit snugly over the repaired ball, it is easy to slight bend it in or out to fit.

If you are missing the relay shaft ball and inner core all together, a full replacement ball is also available ($2.00 world-wide shipping charge added automatically):

Replacement Ball +
UHMW Bushings
Replacement Ball +
Teflon Bushings

Replacement Ball: $25

Replacement Ball +
UHMW Bushings: $35

Replacement Ball +
Teflon Bushings: $50

>>> Contact us for more information or to order the UHMW (or Teflon/PTFE) relay shaft bushings <<<

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Frequently Asked Questions:

Here are some common (frequently asked) questions (and answers) about the shift linkage kit MissingLinhkZ makes. If you have questions and they are not listed below,ask them so we can add your answers for future readers. To use, read down the list of questions, below, and click on the one you are interested in an answer for:

  1. I want to purchase an "all inclusive" shift linkage kit, what do I order?
  2. Do I have to buy the whole kit?
  3. Will the clamp on weight work with the stock linkage?
  4. Will the relay shaft bushings work with stock or aftermarket relay shafts?
  5. Will the short throw shift arm work with the A3 weighted relay rod installed on an A2?
  6. Do I need to use your short throw arm with the solid linkage kit?
  7. Is there any downside to a short throw shifter?
  8. Why does the short throw arm only come with 2 reduction settings?
  9. Does the kit include *every* part of the shift linkage?
  10. Do I need to re-align my shifter after installing this kit?
  11. Some A2/A3 short throw shift kits use a shorter selector lever on the transmission, why do you use a longer arm on the relay shaft?
  12. I've seen similar shift linkage kits on the market, what makes yours different?
  13. Do the two short links utilize the existing ball studs and if so, what if mine are worn or rusty?
  14. Will this kit correct an improperly adjusted shift linkage?
  15. What material is the kit made of?
  16. Do the threaded rod ends come loose?
  17. Are there other companies that make shift linkage kits?
  18. Do you make anything for A3 and later vehicles?
  19. Can I make my own shift linkage kit?
  20. Does it matter what kind of oil I run in my transaxle?
  21. How do I place an order?
  22. How long will it take to get my order and how will it be shipped?
  23. A1, A2, A3, what's that all about?
  24. Are you still making and selling these shift linkage upgrade kits?
  25. Do you have any parts for a 4-speed to 5-speed transaxle swap?
1. I want to purchase an "all-inclusive" shift linkage kit, what do I order?
These "all-inclusive" kits contain those shift linkage parts most commonly ordered for upgrading the stock linkage on A1, A2 and A3 vehicles, and include $7.00 for domestic or $13.00 for international shipping:
- A1/Mk1:
- A2/Mk2:
- A3/Mk3:


NOTE: Due to extraordinary high order volume, it may take some time for production and shipments to catch up. Order backlog could be up to 5-6 weeks, so if it bothers you to have your order delayed that long, wait until we catch up before placing your order.

For the A1 chassis, a typical all-inclusive kit includes:
- A1 Solid Shift Linkage
- 2-position Short Throw Arm
- UHMW Relay Shaft Bushings
- Billet Weighted Shift Rod
- Specify 4-speed or 5-speed version in "Note To Seller"
- Note: This kit is the same as the A1e kit listed above
- This combination costs US$100.00 + shipping:

Domestic (US) shipping: $7.00 International shipping: $13.00

Add a UHMW Shift Rod Bearing to the above kit for US$115.00 + shipping (for 5-speed linkage only):

Domestic (US) shipping: $7.00 International shipping: $13.00

For the A1 chassis, a typical all-inclusive Teflon/PTFE kit includes the basic kit components above, swapping the UHMW Relay Shaft Bushing for Teflon:
- This combination costs US$115.00 + shipping:

Domestic (US) shipping: $7.00 International shipping: $13.00

Add a Teflon Shift Rod Bearing to the above kit for US$145.00 + shipping (for 5-speed linkage only):

Domestic (US) shipping: $7.00 International shipping: $13.00


For the A2 chassis, a typical all-inclusive kit includes:
- A2 Solid Shift Linkage
- 2-position Short Throw Arm
- UHMW Relay Shaft Bushings
- Billet Weighted Shift Rod
- A2 Relay Shaft Ball Cover (UHMW)
- This combination costs US$110.00 + shipping:

Domestic (US) shipping: $7.00 International shipping: $13.00

Add a UHMW Shift Rod Bearing to the above kit for US$125.00 + shipping:

Domestic (US) shipping: $7.00 International shipping: $13.00

For the A2 chassis, a typical all-inclusive Teflon/PTFE kit includes all the above, swapping the UHMW Relay Shaft Bushing for Teflon:
- This combination costs US$125.00 + shipping:

Domestic (US) shipping: $7.00 International shipping: $13.00

Add a Teflon Shift Rod Bearing to the above kit for US$155.00 + shipping:

Domestic (US) shipping: $7.00 International shipping: $13.00


For the A3-020 chassis (not for VR6/02A), a typical all-inclusive kit includes:
- A3 Solid Shift Linkage(less forward selector rod, i.e. 2 pieces)
- 2-position Short Throw Arm
- UHMW Relay Shaft Bushings
- Billet Weighted Shift Rod
- A3 Relay Shaft Ball Cover (UHMW)
- This combination costs US$95.00 + shipping:

Domestic (US) shipping: $7.00 International shipping: $13.00

Add a UHMW Shift Rod Bearing to the above kit for US$110.00 + shipping:

Domestic (US) shipping: $7.00 International shipping: $13.00


For the A3-020 chassis (not for VR6/02A), a typical all-inclusive Teflon/PTFE kit includes all the above, swapping the UHMW Relay Shaft Bushing for Teflon:
- This combination costs US$110.00 + shipping:

Domestic (US) shipping: $7.00 International shipping: $13.00

Add a Teflon Shift Rod Bearing to the above kit for US$140.00 + shipping:

Domestic (US) shipping: $7.00 International shipping: $13.00


There are options to both these kits, such as upgrades to adjustable short throw arms, or lower cost versions with clamp-on weight instead of the billet weight, or without the short throw arm, shift rod bearings, etc.
2. Do I have to buy the whole kit?
No, this kit is designed so that any component will work by itself with the remainder of the stock or most aftermarket shift linkage parts. For example if you have the TSR solid rod end kit, pick up the relay shaft bushings, short throw arm and weighted rod, either clamp on or billet. If you have a Techtonics Tuning short throw kit, leave out the short throw arm and add whatever components you want.
Your "kit" will include the parts you want, see the pricing and options table, here. So, this brings up a related question, what parts do you need? A lot depends on what you are looking for. If you want the biggest bang for the buck, replace the relay shaft bushings and on the A2/A3, the golf ball bushing. Doing these will eliminate all the play from those parts and restore everything to near factory-new feel. And, unlike the stock bushings, the UHMW (or Teflon/PTFE) bushings should remain tight for years. If you are looking to upgrade the performance of your stock linkage, then look to other parts of the Missing LinkZ package. If you want a shortened throw on the shift lever, the short throw shift arm is what you need. If you want a more solid feeling shift, the weighted shift rod is in order. If you want a fully adjustable linkage with all-metal components, then the spherical rod end Missing LinkZ linkage is what you need.
Another option is to upgrade parts one step at a time, do the bushings first, then if you are happy with the results, you may find some other aspect of the shift linkage is now in need of attention.
3. Will the clamp on weight work with the stock linkage?
Yes, it'll clamp right on to the stock relay rod or even to the Missing LinkZ shift rod.
B>4. Will the relay shaft bushings work with stock or aftermarket relay shafts?
Yes, they are designed to work with the stock relay shaft or with common aftermarket shift kits. Certain kits have slightly oversize relay shaft and may require sanding or filing the hole in the bushings a bit to fit the larger shaft.
5. Will the short throw shift arm work with the A3 weighted relay rod installed on an A2?
Yes it will, just slip the A3 weighted rod into the desired reduction hole on the arm and you are set, the A2 and A3 relay rods are the same length. The A3 rod is available from VW for about US$30, P/N: 1H0-711-183. If you would like to have an A3 weighted rod adapted to use the spherical rod ends, its a simple matter to cut M8-1.25 threads on the end of the A3 weight rod and install a set of rod ends on it. The ball studs and socket ends to do so will cost US$15 plus postage. You cut off the bent ends of the A3 rod, then thread the ends and screw on the jam nuts and rod ends. You may need to trim a little off the threaded ends of the rod ends if the overall length comes out too long. The steel of the rod can be a little hard, so be sure and use a god quality threading die, an inexpensive carbon steel die may not "cut it" :). If you lack the tools to do this, MissingLinkZ can modify your A3 weighted rod for US$25 plus return postage (includes parts and labor). Contact us for details.
6. Do I need to use your short throw arm with the solid linkage kit?
No, its not necessary to use the short throw arm. Its an optional item, some people like the stock shift motion, while others prefer a shorter throw. The bolt-on arm only shortens the front-back shift lever throw (by approx. 25% or 50%) but leaves the important side-side (gate) motion the same. The linkage kit will work just fine with most aftermarket short throw kits as well, here its shown with the Tectonics short throw arm.
7. Is there any downside to a short throw shifter?
- The shortened throw does place more load on the relay shaft pivot bushings. You'll want to replace the bushings with the short throw kit if yours are worn. Depending on the degree of reduction, you may find the stock polyurethane bushings just won't hold up to the stress and will wear out and become sloppy in short order. The heavy duty replacement bushings were designed to hold up better in this application.
- Any play in the shift linkage will be magnified by the degree of shift throw reduction (e.g. at 50% reduction, play is multiplied by 2X), so a nice tight shift linkage is critical for proper operation.
Finally, the short throw shift arm can change the angles on the forward shift rod to some degree. While a short throw shift kit can work with the stock style linkage, using a fully adjustable linkage can allow for a better shift linkage alignment.
On a related question, what are the upsides to a short throw shifter? In my A1 diesel, I find it is mainly an ergonomic benefit. I no longer have to lean up and out of the seat to shift into 3rd or 5th gears. Also, shifting is more relaxed, a short throw on the lever gives the desired effect at the transaxle. Having a tight linkage means gear selection is precise. I recall one road trip when I drove 600 miles on the Alcan Highway in one day. By the end of that day, my right arm was so tired from shifting I could hardly get it into 5th gear. If only I would have had a short throw shifter that day, life would have been so much better! The short throw shifter is designed to do just that, shorten the throw of the shift lever in the cab. The transmission linkage inside the transaxle is still doing the same thing to shift gears, so the short throw shift kit will not make your transaxle shift gears any faster than before (won't make it any slower either). You may need a little time to adjust to the shortened throw, which is why I recommend you start at a low reduction for a week or so. Trying to slam and jam the shifter (like you did with the worn out, sloppy linkage you used to run) with a nice, tight shortened throw setup can put undue wear and tear on the transaxle, you need to develop a feel for how fast to move your arm to shift gears with the new setup.
8. Why does the short throw arm only come with 2 reduction settings?
I selected two reduction levels that I felt offered a significant difference over the stock setting. However, if you want to choose from a range of settings, try the new adjustable short throw arm.
9. Does the kit include *every* part of the shift linkage?
No, it does not. I've chosen to include the parts of the linkage that I feel are under designed or lacking features. Parts I don't include are those that the stock VW part is fine, for example the lever on the A1 relay shaft (black rubber part). If its worn, get a new one from VW. On the A2/A3 linkage, I now make a replacement for the ORANGE shift rod bearing on the main shift rod. If this needs replacing, an A2/A3 bushing replacement kit should cost under US$10 and includes this part. Or you can purchase the upgraded shift rod bearing for the A1/A2/A3 linkages in a choice of materials.
Due to popular request, I do offer an improved replacement bushing for the A2/A3 relay shaft ball cover. Finally, this kit doesn't include any of the parts related to the shift lever itself. A common part to wear out on the A2 and A3 vehicles, especially due to the added stress applied trying to shift with a worn linkage, is the ball and socket under the shift lever itself. As it wears, the ball sinks lower in the socket until the reverse lockout no longer is functional. Here is some information on replacing this part. On the A1 vehicles, there are no rebuildable parts in the "Shift Lever Pivot Assembly", so the entire unit typically must be replaced if it is worn.
10. Do I need to re-align my shifter after installing this kit?
If it was aligned properly before, it'll be aligned properly afterwards. If it was mis-aligned, then it will need to be aligned to work properly. If you are replacing the shift rod bearing as part of the kit installation, you will need to re-align the linkage since you have to separate the clamp from the shift rod to replace the bearing. A few tips can make the re-alignment easier. First, try to mark the position of the clamp on the shift rod, both the depth is is pushed onto the rod as well as the vertical alignment. Then you might try measuring the clearance to the reverse lockout finger under the shifter to see where it is aligned to and to familiarize yourself with what the proper alighment looks like.
The alignment procedure varies with vehicle type, consult a good repair manual for the procedure:
Here is a fairly good discussion of the A1 alignment procedure: http://www.mikegabriel.net/vw/badhabitrabbit/shifter.html In short, set the shifter base reverse lockout finger clearance to 15mm on a 5-speed and 20mm on a 4-speed.
On the A2/A3 linkage, the adjustment of the shifter itself is made easier with a special tool, p/n 3285. Here is a 150 DPI scan of the tool, that if printed at the same resolution will yield a useable copy.
11. Some short throw shift kits use a shorter selector lever on the transmission, why do you use a longer arm on the relay shaft?
Technically, either approach will work. But MissingLinkZ chose the longer arm for a number of reasons.
- One is for ease of installation. No need to remove parts from the transmission, instead the arm extension is easily clamped to the relay shaft in place, from the top.
- Also, by lengthening the relay shaft arm, you preserve the amount of shift rod motion, thus minimizing the effects of play in the linkages. On a shortened selector shaft, any play in the mechanism up to that point is magnified by the shortness of the arm.
- Also, by maintaining the shift rod range of motion (and thus speed) the application of weight to the rod is more effective. The momentum of the rod motion (with weight) helps overcome the loss of leverage (due to the shorter shift lever motion) and makes shifting smooth and crisp.
- Finally, the same part works just the same on A1 or A2/A3 linkages, the shortened selector lever won't work on the A1 linkage.
12. I've seen similar shift linkage kits on the market, what makes yours different?
It is one of the most complete and flexible kits available.
All the links are fully adjustable for length and orientation. While this may make a bit more work to install the links (setting the lengths to match the old links) it allows for fine tuning shifting operation to make up for variations in your shift linkage.
There are no welded parts in the linkage, aside from the threaded stud welded into the short throw arm. By making the parts from one piece of material, possible brittleness of welded joints is avoided.
All joints are purely mechanical. This eliminates most of the wear prone bushings in the system. This ensures your shifting will be just as crisp years from now as it is the day you install it.
You can mix and match almost any combination of components to build a kit to suit your exact needs.
Where possible, we also try to retain as much of the stock linkage as possible to save on manufacturing costs which is passed along to the end user.
The parts are designed purely for functionality, strength and durability. You won't find any chrome plating here :-)
13. Do the two short links utilize the existing ball studs and if so, what if mine are worn or rusty?
Yes, the links do utilize the existing 13mm ball studs. If the existing studs are worn out or rusted due to lack of lubrication, MissingLinkZ offers replacement studs. Installation requires removing the existing part to drill out the worn ball stud and then bolting in the replacement stud. It uses a 5/16" hole and include nut and lock washer to secure it in place of the old stud.
14. Will this kit correct an improperly adjusted shift linkage?
The VW shift linkage is a complex mechanical system. The MissingLinkZ kit replaces the last links before the transaxle, but if the linkage motion is not correct coming to the end links, they can only transmit the incorrect motion.
Other sources of adjustment in the linkage include the proper indexing of the shift rod on the shift rod clamp. If you disassemble this component, be sure to make an alignment mark to aide in proper reassembly.
Another alignment item is the shift lever base and the floor pan of the vehicle. There are two alignment holes in the lever base that should be aligned to, ensuring that the lever throw is in line with the shift rod below.
Finally, the front-back centering of the shift lever in the shift gates under the lever can be adjusted by sliding the shift rod in the clamp. There is a web page with detailed troubleshooting and alignment information:
- http://www.mikegabriel.net/vw/badhabitrabbit/shifter.html.
15. What material is the kit made of?
The shift rod weights are made of cold rolled steel, short throw arms are made of mild steel, the spherical rod ends are galvanized steel and the threaded rods are 308 stainless steel. Relay shaft pivot bushings are made of either Ultra High Molecular Weight PolyEthylene (UHMW-PE) or Teflon/PTFE (PTFE). I paint the linkage with an engine enamel to prevent rust on the non-stainless steel parts. You can paint over this if you want another color or let me know if you want unpainted parts.
16. Do the threaded rod ends come loose?
I've been running one version or another of this setup for over a year and have yet to have any rod end work loose. If the jam nuts are properly tightened against the rod ends they should not work loose. I've been running my linkage on a diesel engine vehicle (with worn out motor mounts no less - so I know vibration:) and not one problem. If you want to be extra secure, once you have the linkage adjusted to the proper length for your vehicle, you could use a thread locking compound on the jam nuts, just back them off, apply a drop of thread lock and tighten them up again. Or for the ultimate in staying power, you could try tack welding the nut and rod end to the threaded rod. The rod ends also feature a spring steel safety clip that mechanically retains the rod end on top of the ball stud.
Or, if you prefer the stock linkage, you can use it along with the short throw arm, clamp on weight and improved relay shaft bearings, your choice.
17. Are there other companies that make shift linkage kits?
Yes, here's some I've run across (in alphabetical order):
- AutoBahn Designs (ABD Racing)
- Autotech
- Eurosport Accessories
- Neuspeed
- Techtonics Tuning
- TSR Performance
18. Do you make anything for A3 and later vehicles?
Some A3 vehicles use nearly the identical shift linkage as the A2 does, except for the front selector rod, which is just too short to adapt to the solid rod end style linkage. So, the Missing LinkZ kit can supply everything but that part for the A3, this is why the A3 kits are $15 less than the corresponding A2 kits. If in doubt whether your A3 is a linkage or cable shifted setup, pop the hood and look. Or look at the transaxle code on the bottom of the bell housing. There you will see if you have an 020 (linkage shifted) or 02A (cable shifted, used with the VR6 engine) transaxle. For later vehicles that use a cable style shifter, Missing LinkZ doesn't have a solution for that. One good option can be found at:
- Diesel Geek
19. Can I make my own shift linkage kit?
Yes, that's how I made mine. After not finding all the components in any one kit, I designed and built my own. You can get the rod ends, the safety clips, the jam nuts, the threaded rod, some tools to cut and bend it, the ball studs, the washers and nuts to attach them to the stock linkage. If you have access to a metal cutting lathe and milling machine, you can machine some rod for the weights, and make some bushings to tighten up the relay shaft. If you need any of the component parts, Missing LinkZ can supply any items you can't locate on your own.
20. Does it matter what kind of oil I run in my transaxle?
VW recommends a gear oil with a GL-4 rating. One that I have found is Redline manual transmission oil. I've used both MT-90 and MTL (both of which are available for about US$12/qt. from these links). I prefer the lighter MTL for the 020 transaxle, while MT-90 is a better match for the 02A transaxle.
The proper weight and grade gear oil will greatly improve shifting while moving. Running the proper gear oil allows the synchomesh rings to do their job better to speed up or slow down their gears to mesh properly for easier shifting. With gear oil, a bigger number (as in GL-5) is not always better, a really good GL-5 oil may be too slippery for the synchros to work properly, making shifting slower, and the extreme pressure (EP) additives in GL-5 may attack some of the bronze components in the transaxle.
Some signs of incorrect gear oil include sluggish shifting when the transaxle is cold and noticeably different delays engaging various gears. For example if it takes longer to shift from 1st to 2nd gear compared to shifting from 2nd to 3rd gear, this could indicate the synchros are having trouble spinning 2nd gear up to speed.
So, how much oil do you need? Ideally, you need 2 liters to refill an 020 transaxle, or four ounces over 2 quarts. I like to keep some gear oil on hand, so get 3 quarts and then you'll have some to top off the gear box if needed. On most of the early 020 transaxles (made prior to 1987) the "fill" plug is too low on the transaxle case for a proper fill level check. That is the oil will begin to drain out of the fill plug at about 1.5 liters. The plug must then be installed and the remainder of the gear oil is poured in the top of the gear box.
IMPORTANT: Low gear oil levels is the #1 cause of transaxle noise and popping out of 5th gear and of 5th gear failure, so make sure the gear oil level is proper.
Speaking of drain plugs, here is a handy tool to help you remove and install those pesky 17mm hex socket plugs...
21. How do I place an order?
In most cases, just click on the "Buy Now" button located near the item you wish to purchase. If there is not a "Buy Now" button for the item(s) you want, just send us an e-mail and tell me what type of vehicle you have (A1, A2 or A3), and what parts you would like to order and we'll get you a price quote and list of payment options.
If you are unsure what parts you need, feel free to ontact us to discuss you application. The majority of the kits we've built are a custom mix of parts to work with specific applications. If you already have some components of your shift linkage upgraded, we can build you a kit around those parts.
All the "Buy Now" buttons use PayPal, the ID is Sales@MissingLinkZ.com which will direct funds to the company's (Visual Diagnostics LLC) PayPal account. Other payment options are available, contact MissingLinkZ for details.


NOTE: Due to extraordinary high order volume, it may take some time for production and shipments to catch up. Order backlog could be up to 5-6 weeks, so if it bothers you to have your order delayed that long, wait until we catch up before placing your order.

22. How will it take to get my order and how will it be shipped?
Allow a few days up to a week for your custom shift linkage kit to be fabricated. MissingLinkZ ships the larger kits via US Priority Mail, 2-3 day delivery time from zip code 94088 with delivery tracking. Smaller parts go via First Class mail (~5 days typical delivery time) unless otherwise specified. International shipments go via US Airmail or Priority Mail International with 6-10 day delivery time. For orders placed via Paypal, they will be shipped to the address specified in the Paypal transaction notice. Please be sure to DOUBLE CHECK the shipping address before placing the order. Incorrect addresses will delay the delivery of your order and any re-shipment cost will be paid by the buyer. Normally this is the Confirmed (or unconfirmed) shipping address that you select when placing the order via Paypal (which is what Paypal requires me, as a seller, to do to be covered by their Seller Protection policy). If you wish the package to be sent to a different address, you can add that address to your Paypal account or put it in the Note field in the Paypal order screen. If you send an alternate address in a separate e-mail, it may difficult to associate it with your Paypal order, especially if you use 2 or more different e-mail addresses. If possible, a delivery tracking number will be furnished. Insurance is not included, if desired, it is available at an extra cost. Expedited shipping options are also available at an additional cost (Express Mail) , cost for Express Mail shipping runs $20.00 to domestic and $28.00 for international destinations. For uninsured shipments that are either lost or mis-delivered by the post office, replacement parts can be reordered at a discounted price (parts cost less 10%). For international shipments, the supplied tracking number may or may not be scanned along the way, so may not update on the usps.com tracking web site. If you desired a fully trackable international shipment, the above Expedited Shipping method is recommended, contact MissingLinkZ for details. In the event a Delivery Confirmation or other tracking number indicates that the package has been delivered, but you have not received the part, consider taking the tracking number to the post office to see if they can trace the item.


NOTE: Due to extraordinary high order volume, it may take some time for production and shipments to catch up. Order backlog could be up to 5-6 weeks, so if it bothers you to have your order delayed that long, wait until we catch up before placing your order.

23. A1, A2, A3, what's that all about?
These are VW Chassis Codes, this list should assist you with what vehicles are included in each production run.
24. Are you still making and selling these shift linkage upgrade kits?
Yes!
25. Do you have any parts for a 4-speed to 5-speed transaxle swap?
You bet. There are some linkage differences between the 4-speed and 5-speed transaxles. Most of them can be handled with any of the adjustable 5-speed linkage kits. If you are unable to get the 5-speed rear selector rod to work with your 4-speed linkage, there is no problem re-using the existing 4-speed rear selector rod, especially if you plan to upgrade to a 5-speed transaxle at a later date. An additional difference is the length of the selector lever in the two setups. In order to get increased side-side throw for the wider 5-speed shift pattern, the selector lever in a 5-speed linkage is approx. 2" longer than that of the 4-speed shift linkage. You can grab the longer lever from the 5-speed donor vehcile or a bolt-on extension is available from Missing LinkZ. See the pricing section for ordering information (A1 Selector Lever Extension). Most folks recommend getting the 5-speed gear shift assembly and the long shift rod connected to it from the donor vehicle, although I have heard of folks being able to re-use the 4-speed shifter. Likewise, if you plan to upgrade to a UHMW or Teflon shift rod bearing, you'll need the shift rod bearing bracket from the 5-speed vehicle as it can be repaired unlike the 4-speed bracket. You'll also need the driver's side transaxle mount for the 5-speed donor as that part is different than the 4-speed mount. And the shift lever alignment dimension in the 5-speed shifter.
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[Last updated: Monday, 26-Jul-2010 06:31:26 PDT]