
Toyota Driveshaft Spacers

a division of Visual Diagnostics LLC
Visitor #
724
since 05.MAR.2008

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NOTE: 4Crawler Offroad/MissingLinkZ will be on reduced operations until 07.JUL.2008. New orders may not be processed until that date and e-mail response may be delayed. Stay tuned to this page for updates.
On the Toyota 4WD pickups and 4Runners, the front and rear drive shaft
bolt to "companion" flanges on the transfer case with a
mating flange on the driveshaft. Up until now, the only way to make a
driveshaft longer was to remove it and have a drive line shop cut the
existing tubing off the driveshaft and weld on a new length of tubing.
If you needed a significant change in length, this was not so bad to
do. But often, you only needed to lengthen the shaft a small amount,
from 3/4" to 1-1/2" for example. Since you had pay for a
whole new length of driveshaft tubing (plus the labor to install it)
and not just the additional inch or so of additional tubing, it could
cost hundreds of dollars to have a shaft lengthened, even a short
amount.
What are some indications that your driveshaft is too short?
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One obvious indication is that the slip yoke on the driveshaft pulls
apart as the suspension drops away from the vehicle. This is typical of
front driveshafts, especially with a leaf sprung front axle with
rear-mounted spring shackles, as is common on solid axle Toyota
min-trucks (both factory and solid axle swaps).
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Another less obvious indication is that the slip yoke is not engaged
far enough and thus it causes some vibration. An easy way to check for
this condition is to grasp the center section of the driveshaft near
the slip yoke and give it a good tug side-side. If you feel any play in
that slip yoke, you may have too little spline engagement inside (or
the slip yoke may be out of grease or even worn out).
Ideally, you only want just a little more slip yoke compression travel
than needed by the change in driveshaft length as the suspenion fully
compresses. How much is that? It is hard to give an exact answer, as
every vehicle is different. Generally a rear driveshaft needs less slip
yoke travel than a front driveshaft. A longer driveshaft generally
needs less slip yoke travel than a shorter one. A driveshaft that is at
a flatter angle will generally need less trravel than one at a steeper
angle.
So how do you determine how much slip yoke travel you need on your
vehicle?
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You might try driving somplace where you can go over some bumps to get
the rear (or front) end to compress fully. Then hop out and examine the
cleared portion of the driveshaft slip yoke and mark or measure the
amount of compression observed.
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You could take some careful measurements of the shaft length and height
on each end then use that to draw out a triangle, with the shaft on the
hypotenuse of the triangle. Then measure how far your suspension can
compress from the static ride height and use that to create a new
triangle with the shorter height due to the suspension compression.
Then solve for the length change of the driveshaft.
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Aside from the above, you should probably have 1" to 1-1/2"
of rear shaft slip yoke compression length. Up front, you'll probably
need 2" or more of slip yoke compression travel, depending on your
suspension travel, where the spring shackles are located, etc.
Generally having too much slip yoke compression travel is better than
not enough. Whatever you do, you do not want the driveshaft to
"bottom out", as that can cause severe damage to the transfer
case, as it will take the brunt of the impact should the slip yoke
compress fully. But if you have so much slip yoke pull apart that it
separates or vibrates is no good either. Until now there has only bee
one solution, that is to have the shaft physically lengthened at
considerable expense. Byt now available for the Toyota 4WD trucks is a
simple bolt-on spacer that fits the 3 common driveshaft bolt patterns
and typical applications:
| Bolt Pattern |
Typical Application |
| 60mm x 60mm x 8mm |
1979-1983 U-Joint (see notes below *) |
| 60mm x 60mm x 10mm |
1984-1995 U-Joint |
| 60mm x 68.5mm x 10mm |
1984-1995 CV Joint/4cyl |
| 61.5mm x 70mm x 10mm |
1988-1995 CV Joint/V6 |
The spacers are ~4.25" in diameter and include 4 - 10mm (or 8mm)
metric grade 12.9 mounting bolts and lock nuts to replace the stock
mounting bolts. These spacers may fit other Toyota driveshaft flanges.
To check if your's will work, measure the center-center bolt hole
spacing and compare to the above dimensions and see if you match up
with one of the 3 bolt patterns,
* Notes:
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For the '79-'83 pickup rear driveshafts (that use a 60mm x 60mm x 8mm
bolt pattern) there are several options available:
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The first option is to re-drill the transfer case and drive shaft
flange holes to 10mm to accomodate the largern late-model 10mm bolts.
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Simply order the regular spacer in the thickness desired.
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A second option, that requires no drilling, is a hardware kit including
the 8mm mounting bolts plus a set of steel bushings to step the spacer
hole size from 10mm down to 8mm.
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This hardware kit runs $20.00 plus the cost of the spacer.
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Also available, by special order, are undrilled spacers.
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If the above bolt hole patterns do not fit your requirements, you can
purchase an undrilled spacer for $5.00 additional and then drill it to
fit your driveshaft flange. This would be applicable for the 1st gen
4WD pickups which use the smaller 8mm driveshaft bolts or for some of
the later model Toyotas that use a pattern different than above.
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For the 8mm bolt applications, a hardware kit is available for $10.00
additional.
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Allow approx. 2 weeks for for custom
orders.
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NOTE: 4Crawler Offroad/MissingLinkZ will be on reduced operations until 07.JUL.2008. New orders may not be processed until that date and e-mail response may be delayed. Stay tuned to this page for updates.
Order a drive shaft spacer below:
 |
 |
 |
 |
| 0.75" Spacer; US$65.00 |
1.00" Spacer; US$68.00 |
1.25" Spacer; US$71.00 |
1.50" Spacer; US$74.00 |
US Delivery; $7.00 |
US Delivery; $7.00 |
US Delivery; $7.00 |
US Delivery; $7.00 |
International Delivery; $12.00 |
International Delivery; $12.00 |
International Delivery; $12.00 |
International Delivery; $12.00 |
Notes:
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Your order will be shipped via Priority Mail for domestic (US
addresses, including APO/FPO) with a delivery tracking number provided
at time of shipment (tracking may not available on APO/FPO addresses)
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2-3 days delivery time typical.
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International orders will be shipped via Priority Mail International
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6-10 days delivery time typical.
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Unused parts may be returned for a refund,
less the cost of postage on the original shipment and a 10% restocking
fee.
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Please be sure to double check your shipping address, both that it is
correct and that it is able to receive US Mail deliveries.
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Also, international shipments require a local telephone number for
customs paperwork, include that in the "Note To Seller" field
of the order form.
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Lack of phone number will delay shipment of the parts.
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Returns Policy:
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Parts may be returned for a refund within 30 days of original purchase.
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A 10% restocking fee will be deducted from original purchase price less
outgoing postage.
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Parts must be in new and unused condition for the refund.
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Used or blemished parts can yield partial refunds at the discretion of
4Crawler Offroad.
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The customer is responsible for return shipping charges.
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One exception to this policy is in the case that the spacers do not fit
properly.
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In such a case 4Crawler Offroad will refund the full purchase price
less shipping.
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Return to:
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4Crawler Offroad Products
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attn: Roger Brown
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PO Box 61092
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Sunnyvale, CA. 94088-1092
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 |
Installed spacer on transfer case
output flange |
Allow approximately 30 minutes for the installation, assuming you don't
run into any rusted or damaged fasteners.
While you should not have to separate the drive shaft to install the
spacer, it is a good idea to put an alignment mark across both sides of
the slip yoke. Some white paint works well and will help you re-align
the slip yoke if you accidentally pull it apart.
Typically, the stock drive shaft (a.k.a. propeller shaft) flange bolts
use a 14mm head, so you'll need a pair of 14mm combination wrenches to
remove those. For the rear driveshaft, block the vehicle's tires or
place the rear axle on jack stands for easier removal. You can place
the transmission in neutral and release the parking brake if needed.
Break the stock flange bolts loose at the transfer case and then remove
them. Support the driveshaft before removing the last bolt to keep it
from falling. Then compress the slip yoke enough to allow insertion of
the spacer. Then slip the spacer in between the transfer case output
flange and the driveshaft flange and turn it to make sure you have the
proper set of 4 bolt holes in alignment. Slip in one of the supplied
metric socket head cab screws, a lock nut and washer (if needed).
Repeat for the other 3 bolt holes, just to make sure all 4 bolts are
installed before tightening them. If you find the bolts hard to
install, use a small round file to clean out the insides of the holes
in the flanges to make installation easier.
Once all 4 bolts are in place, alternately snug them down with an 8mm
allen key (a long handled key is recommended) and a 17mm wrench (for
the nut). Once all 4 nuts are snugged down, torque the nuts to approx.
45 ft.lbs. and re-check the torque after 50-100 miles of driving.
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Questions? -->
<-- Comments?
email: sales@4Crawler.com
[Last updated: 02.July.2008]
