One common problem on 4WD Toyota trucks is the transfer case shift
lever binding when shifting into the various 2H-4H-N-4L positions. The
lever has to move quite far, especially to select 4L and often it can
bind with the shifter boot or the sheet metal surrounding the shifter
hole in the floor of the vehicle. This problem is exacerbated by a body
lift, where you are raising the body up and away from the transfer
case. With a 2" body lift, you need about twice the clearance
around the shifter as you did at stock height, due to the increased
length of the shifter from the shifter base (while the actual angle
that the shifter moves through is unchanged with the body lift, the
distance the lever moves is increased the farther up the lever you
move).
So one option is to shorten the throw, or angle, that the shift lever
moves in to affect the gear selections. One way to do this is to raise
the shifter pivot base about 1" and add a 1" extension to the
end of the shifter itself. This does two things, one is it raises the
lever up 1", thereby negating 1" of body lift all together.
The second thing it does is to halve the angle the lever needs to move,
since the stock pivot is 1" above the end of the shift lever,
doubling that to 2" makes the pivot twice as long and therefore
you need 1/2 the angle to make it move the same distance. You can see
below how far the stock shifter moves (lower left) and how much less it
move with the short throw shift kit installed (lower right):
Stock throw: ...short
throw:
(Hit your browser's "STOP" button to halt the
animation)
What is it good for?
Its hard to see it in the upper-left picture (above), but with a
3" body lift, I can just barely operate the transfer case shift
lever. In fact, if you look closely you'll notice that the sheet metal
just ahead of the lever is actually bent due to the level hitting it in
the process of the body lift. In the upper-right picture, you can see
not only the reduction in shifter travel but that it is both higher and
has more clearance. This allows the shift to work without interference
on body lifts from 1" to 3".
Note that this kit is only for the transfer case (i.e. the 2H-4H-4L
shift lever, not the transmission - 1-2-3-4-5-R shift lever).
Also, for 4Runners with the factory rear heater/center console
(pictured above) that are considering istallation of a dual transfer
case, the rearmost transfer case shift lever must be set up for short
throw operation if you intend to keep the center console. Same story if
you have a pickup with bench seats. The rear-most shift lever has to be
short throw it clear the seat.
What is it not good for?
It may not be possible to install this kit on a non-lifted body,
depending on how much clearance you have above the transfer case shift
lever, you need at least 1" of clearance between the top of the
transfer case and the body to install the riser plate.
This kit is NOT for the transmission (i.e. 1-2-3-4-5-R) shift lever.
I've only seen one other solution to this problem on the market, and I
had one installed on my rear transfer case (careful observers will note
I installed my kit on the middle case. I liked it so much, I wanted
another one for my front case, but wanted something simpler than the
cut-n-weld approach used on the solution offered by Marlin Crawler. So, I
re-designed the system to be full bolt on installation. Not only is it
lower cost but it is removable and transferrable to another vehicle. No
special skills or tools are required for installation.
There are multiple versions of the short throw transfer case shift kit
are available.
If you have a 4-cylinder engine, manual transmission or have converted
your chain-drive case to a gear-driven one, you'll need either kit A or
B. Which you need depends on where the shift lever is physically
located.
If it comes up and out of the transfer case, then its a top-shift lever
and you need kit A.
If the shifter comes up out of the transmission, its a forward-shift
lever and you need kit B.
If you have a pickup or 4Runner w/ V6 engine or an automatic
transmission, you have a chain-driven transfer case and need kit type
C.
Front-back spacing is ~62mm and side-side spacing is ~70mm and 80mm
For the T-100 V6 drive trains, you can use kit type D.
The bolt pattern is approx. 90mm / 87mm x 55mm front-back, so be sure
to check whish size bolt pattern s on your truck..
Finally, for applications not listed above, or if you want to make your
own spacer, the bolt-on shifter extension is available separately.
From what we have seen, almost all Toyota transfer cases use the same
type of shifter end, the only variation is in the shifter base plate.
And if you are not sure which kit/baseplate to order, just take a few
quick measurements of your transfer case shifter, with the
center-center hole spacing of the bolt holes. So basically the distance
between the two forward holes, the distance between the two rear holes
(if different than the front) and the distance between the front and
rear holes. And if the shifter pivot point is not centered inside those
holes (it typically is), let
us know.
We can take these dimensions and see which base plate/spacer is right
for your applcation and if they don't match any of our current designs,
we'll also need the overall width and length of the shifter base plate
and we can design a spacer to fit your vehicle. This is exactly how all
the spacers below were designed, off of measurements of existing
shifter bases.
This kit will only work with the OEM type t-case shifters that use the 2H-4H-N-4L shift pattern.
It won't work with aftermarket twin stick shifters that split the shift pattern into separate 2-4 and H-L shift patterns,
there's not enough clearance between those shifter ends for the extension to fit onto.
A: Gear Driven/Top Shift Transfer Case Kit
'84-'95 Pickup/4Runner
B: Gear Driven/Fwd. Shift Transfer Case Kit
'84-'95 Pickup/4Runner
C: Chain Driven (V6) Transfer Case Kit
'88-'95 Pickup/4Runner
'96-'02 4Runner/Tacoma
Image pending
D: T-100/V6 Transfer Case Kit
'93-'98 T-100
E: 3rd gen Hilux Surf
54mm x 90/85mm pattern
F: DIY Kit Shifter Ext. only
1979-20xx 4WD models
The forward shift t-case kit is for shifters that have a separate
shifter base from the transmission. Some tranny/t-case combos such as
the W56C/D and RF1A-FwdShift boxes have a shared shifter base between
the t-case and tranny shifters. As such, it is not possible to raise
the t-case shifter w/o touching the tranny shifter. Easy to tell which
you have by pulling the shifter boots up and looking. If you see a
t-case shifter with 4 bolts holding it down and a tranny shifter base
that is separate with 4 or 6 bolts holding it down, you can use this
kit. If you see one long shifter base held down by 6 bolts total, then
this kit will not work, unless you convert that t-case to a top-shift
unit. Note that the gear driven t-cases are most commonly used for
upgrading with either lower range gearing (4.0 : 1 or 4.7 : 1) or for
use in dual transfer case setups.
Cost of the kit, as pictured, is US$129.00 (riser plate, lever extension,
mounting hardware: p/n: ST_Transfer) plus shipping via USPS Flat Rate envelope.
Be sure to provide a valid mailing address for the order, and double check the address before
submitting the order. Incorrect shipping addresses will result in
delayed shipments and any reshipping cost will be at the customer's
expense. Specify the type of transfer case shifter you need: top-shift,
forward-shift or the V6/chain-driven style: SOLD OUT
Dual Case Short Throw Kit Top-shift version pictured
And for owners of dual transfer case trucks or 4Runners, get a pair of
short throw shift kits (one for each transfer case, p/n: ST_DualCase)
for $199.00 + shipping via USPS Flat Rate envelope,
specify top/top or fwd/top shifter styles: SOLD OUT
SOLD OUT - US delivery
SOLD OUT - Canada delivery
SOLD OUT - Int'l delivery
For international orders, please provide a local telephone number for
customs paperwork.
If you want to make your own custom short throw kit, a shifter
extension is available as a separate item at a cost of US$60.00 +
shipping. This extension should fit most Toyota gear- and chain-driven
transfer case shifter ends. Designed for a 1" rise on the shifter
base. To make the spacer plate, just trace the existing shifter base for
the bolt hole locations and mark the center for the shifter hole.
Cut a piece of stock to size, mark and drill the holes.
A hole saw works well for the center shifter hole: SOLD OUT
Kits are built to order, allow approx. 2-3 weeks (depending on backlog)
for fabrication and shipping. We've been experiencing unprecedented
order volume the last year along with supply chain issues obtaining raw
materials for these parts.
If at some point in the future you find you no longer need the short
throw kit (body lift removed, drivetrain lift installed, etc.) 4Crawler
Offroad may buy it back if it is still in good condition. Contact
4Crawler Offroad for details.
Apply the emergency brake and block the wheels so the vehicle doesn't
roll while you work on it.
Shift the transfer case into 4H and make note of the approximate
orientation of the shift lever.
In 4H, both shift rails will be aligned and towards the front.
Remove the shift knob(s), console, shifter boots, and/or carpeting at
the base of the levers.
Remove the 4 bolts holding the shift lever to the transfer case and
carefully remove it (there may be a sealer holding it to the case).
Slip the extension end over the end of the shift lever and tighten the
two allen head retaining screws evenly, making sure that the
flats of the extension are lined up with the flats on the end of the
end of the shifter.
Application of a red Locktite thread locker is a good idea, for added
security, although the mounting screws may already have a thread
locking compound applied.
You might also consider making a small depression in the face of the
shifter end to give the retaining screws something to "bite"
into. I did this on my lever by just starting a 1/4" drill bit
hole to make a small dimple on each side.
On the V6 transfer case shifter, there is a spring clip
at the base of the shifter, this needs to be removed before installing
the spacer. It serves no real purpose and the shifter will work fine
without it installed.
The 4-cylinder/gear driven t-cases use the exact same shifter without
the spring.
Clean the base of the shift lever and the top of the transfer case and
apply a bead of black or gray silicone sealant to the lip of the
transfer case and the top of the riser block.
Install the riser block, then any oil baffle plate that was present (be
sure that this goes on top of the riser/spacer block, not below) and
finally the shift lever (with extension installed) into the transfer
case, being sure to properly align the lever and stab the shifter end
into the two aligned slots in the transfer case shift rails.
You want to make sure and fit the end of the shifter w/ extension
attached into the space between the
two aligned shift rails.
It is possible to flip the lever 180° and it is easy to miss
getting the end of the lever into the shift rails.
Install the 4 longer bolts, tighten a bit and check for proper transfer
case operation.
If it is not shifting properly, remove it and re-examine where the end
of the shifter is installed.
If the shift rails are no longer aligned towards the front of the hole
in the gear box, you can use a long screwdriver to push them both
forward so that the two gates on the rails line up
as pictured here.
Then torque the bolts snugly and re-install the carpeting, console, and
shift boots as necessary.
Check for interference with any other shift levers by trying all
possible gear combinations. Since the lever is still traveling in its
stock arc and the throw has been reduced, there should be little chance
of interference. In fact if there is interference, you may have
accidentally re-installed the shift lever backwards. If so, remove it,
turn it around and re-install it.
If you find the shifter extension is too tight in the shift rail slots,
you can file or grind the end of the extension for added clearance.
Just take a bit off the leading and trailing edges of the end until you
get nice smooth shifts. Likewise, if you find the extension sticks down
too far, it's possible to file or grind a bit off the bottom for added
clearance.
You can check to see where the interference is happening by applying
some grease paint or felt marker to the end of the extension before
installing it loosely, then try to shift back and forth a few times.
Then remove the extension and look for where it's been rubbing.
Since you have halved the range of motion of the shift lever, it will
unfortunately be twice as hard to move. I find it is not as easy to
force the transfer case when it is bound up in a turn, for example.
However, I don't think it is a good idea to be forcing gears to engage
and disengage when they are jammed, so if this happens, try
straightening out the wheels or reversing for a bit to unload the drive
train before shifting. Once you get used to the smooth crisp feel of
the short throw shifter, you'll never want to go back (but you can if
you want, as my kit is fully removable).