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since
13.AUG.2001
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Air pressure in your tires is the one of the most important factors
that affect the performance of you vehicle off-road. Too much air and
you loose traction, damage tires, break drive line components and have
a rough ride. Too little air and you may loose a bead, pinch the tire
between a rock and the rim, damage the rim, etc. With experience,
you'll learn to choose the correct pressure for the type of terrain
you'll be traveling over. However, knowing the pressure you want and
getting the tire pressure in all 4 tires to that value is time
consuming if you have to do one tire at a time. There are numerous
products on the market that can speed the process for airing down, but
none also help you when you air back up at the end of the trip.
You can now air down or up in one easy fast process, all 4 tires at
once, with the 4air. Air down all four tires from 30 psi
to 10 psi in about 90 seconds and assure exact tire pressure in each
tire. Quickly air up all four tires at once, too. Sizes to fit most 4
wheel drive vehicles. This system is modeled after the Quadra-Flate system
popular back in the mid-90s (no longer available), but has been refined
after over 10 years of extensive field use. The 4air
system will let you air up all your tires at the same time and
maximize the air output of your air source. As soon as the first tire
is connected to the air hose, air will be flowing from your air source
into your tire. As you hook up each additional tire, air continues to
flow to all connected tires with pressures equalizing automatically. So
all the while you are moving from tire to tire connecting the hose, air
is flowing. So the minute or so you spend connecting all the tires is
used to pump air into your tires. And unlike using a single air hose to
air up one tire at a time, you may be wasting that time between filling
one tire and moving to the next one.
Sure, you may have an air tank in the system to let your compressor
store air between tires, it is likely of a small capacity and as it
fills, the pressure can rise quite high, cutting into your compressor
output. An advantage of the 4air hose is that you are
essentially using the tires as your air tank and tires are
much larger than a typical air tank. What that means is that if you
have a small "tank" and a large "tank", the
pressure in the large tank will rise much slower than the small tank
for a given flow rate. And look at any compressor flow vs. pressure
rating and you'll see the flow drops off as the pressure rises. So if
you have a small air tank in your system, it's pressure might rise to
90 or 100 psi in between tires. For example the compressor we use in
our shop truck puts out 2.2 CFM at 0 psi but that falls to 1.8 CFM at
30 and about 1.0 CFM at 90 psi. So if I take a minute to move from one
tire to the next and the small 2 cu.ft. tank in the truck hits 90 psi,
the compressor output falls to about 1 CFM, so at that point the
compressor output has dropped in half. With the 4air
system, airing up tires from say 8 psi to 30 psi, as each tire is
connected initially, the pressure is low, down around 8 - 10 psi, so
the compressor output remains fairly near it's maximum output, perhaps
2 CFM. So you can nearly double the effective air output by keeping the
air pressure as low as possible for as long as possible. This also puts
less load on your compressor motor (assuming electric) and keeps the
heat buildup in the compressor itself, higher pressure = higher
temperature. And if you have no storage tank with your compressor, then
if you move from one tire to the next tire, the compressor will shut
off and you get 0 CFM out of your compressor. Pretty simple to do the
math there if the compressor is not running, you are not filling your
tires.
This system has a number of benefits:
-
Transfer air between tires or between vehicles
-
Equalize pressure between tires on the same axle (important for
lockers)
-
Air up a low tire without use of a compressor
-
Saves time and energy before and after the trail run
-
Increase driving safety
-
Get longer tread wear on your tires
The 4air system is available in 3 standard sizes:
-
Small
-
Up to 90" wheel base, e.g. Jeep CJ/TJ, Suzuki Samurai, Landcruiser
FJ-40, Defender 90, etc.
-
Medium
-
Up to 110" wheel base; e.g. Toyota 4Runner and short bed pickup,
Jeep Cherokee, etc.
-
Large
-
Up to 130" wheel base; Toyota Extra Cab, Landcruiser wagon, SUVs,
etc.
-
Custom lengths (longer or shorter) are available, too.
-
Add $1.50/ft. for standard hose (4air-ash) and $2.00/ft. for extreme
duty hose (4air-aeh).
-
We can also add connections for additional
tires (dual wheel axles) or dual axles.
-
To accommodate the additional fittings, we add a pair of additional tee
fittings at the ends with stub hoses (typically 2' long) to service the
first set of tires then off the back of the tees, we can add a length
of hose with additional tire chuck for the 2nd set of tires. So we'll
need to know how much hose you need to have us add.
-
Cost for the additional set of tees and fittings will run $30.00 (order
item: 6air-tee) plus the cost of the additional hose (see above) and
the cost of the tire chucks desired.
-
So for example, assuming you need 3.5' of hose from the tee to the rear
most axle/tire, you would need 7' of additional hose on the two sides
plus the additional 2' x 2 stub hoses, or 11' of total extra hose
length, so $17.50 additional for standard hose or $22.00 additional for
the extreme duty hose on top of the $30.00 for the additional tees and
fittings.
We also can make systems to handle 2 (2air), 4 (4air),
6 (6air) or more tires, as you need. Systems are designed
to work with tires up to about 44" in diameter (thus 24"
length of the stub hose at each tee fitting). The hose lengths are
designed to accommodate the maximum wheel base in the size range above
(including the worst case situation of having valve stems end up on
opposite sides of the wheels), but can be used on vehicles with up to
15" longer wheel base if needed. Built with high-pressure
1/4" ID hose and uses 1/4" NPT threaded connections
throughout for easy repair or modification. Quick release air chucks at
all tires provide hands-free airing up and down.
The standard configuration includes 2 - 56" long hoses from the
central air manifold to the first tee, where a 24" long stub hose
is attached to connect to the tires on that axle. This is setup works
will for connecting to a front mounted air source. If you wish to use
the 4air from a rear air source or you have a very wide
axle or extra long front overhang, additional runner length is
available, $1.50/ft. for standard hose (4air-ash), $2.00/ft. for
extreme duty hose (4air-aeh). The 2air systems can be set up to handle
tires on one side (2air-s, 2air-m, 2air-l) or on one axle (2air-a) of a
vehicle depending on your requirements.
For emergency use, you can air up a low tire by connecting the 4air
to the low tire and your spare or to one or more good tires. The air
pressure will self-equalize. For example, with one flat tire and three
good ones at 32psi, you should end up with four tires at 24psi, which
would be enough to get you home.
Most importantly, the 4air, unlike the Quadra-Flate, is
designed for total flexibility. With the use of standard pipe thread
fittings, it is possible to reconfigure the unit to meet your needs. We
prefer an air chuck and Schrader valve on ours, but you may want a
Schrader valve and a gauge, 2 wheels or 4 or 6. With quick disconnect
air chucks, you can change configurations in the field. Automotive type
air chucks are readily available at hardware and auto parts stores, or
we can supply custom setups. We also carry a small kit of fittings (see
pictures following) including flexible air hose, quick connect tire
chucks, various combinations of air chuck adapters, so if we find an
air source, we can usually air up from it, otherwise we use our
on-board air compressor.
Some folks may look at a 4air hose system as a frivolous
accessory or "bling". When I first saw one, I too thought the
same thing. But after having and using one for better than a dozen
years now, I can tell you it is the one off-roading accessory that I
carry in my truck that I do use each and every time I go off-road, in
fact at least twice on every trip. Once to air down and once to air up
at the end of the trail. The winch on my truck has been used maybe half
a dozen times in that same period of time. The Hi-Lift jack maybe twice
that many times, my on-board welder, a couple of times, etc. But that 4air
bag is right on top and gets pulled out at the start of the trail and
I am always waiting for the other folks to finish airing down their
tires and the sam thing at the pavement at the end of the trail.
Be
sure to see the 2air product review on the 4x4Wire.com
Regarding the ParksOffRoad.com review of the 4Air system, we have
identified the source of the slow air up/down times to a faulty batch
of tire chucks that were internally restricting air flow. We have since
changed suppliers for those parts and now test each and every chuck for
adequate air flow upon kit assembly. So there should no longer be any
significant difference in the time to air up or down one tire vs. all
4, since the basic bottleneck (source of air flow restriction) is the
Schrader valve on the tire and not what is connected to that/those
valve/valves.
[back to the top]
Standard 4air system includes:
-
2 side air hoses
-
4 air chucks
-
Solid brass air control valve
-
With a male quick-connect fitting installed in the inlet/outlet
-
Schrader valve for checking pressure or airing up from a service
station compressor
-
Also available in a one-sided and one-axle configuration - 2air
(i.e. one air hose and 2 chucks)
-
A pair of captive velcro straps for securing the coiled up air hose
2air/4air/6air options include:
-
Built-in air gauge (replaces the Schrader valve)
-
Choice of 0-30psi, 0-60psi and 0-100psi analog
gauges and a 0-100psi digital
gauge
-
All gauges can be either screwed into the air manifold or can attach
via one of two quick disconnect options, 4air-qd1 or 4air-qd2
-
The 4air-qd1 option uses
a euro-style tire valve chuck on the gauge to allow it to be attached
to the 4air manifold or to a tire, so you can
use one gauge for all readings.
-
The 4air-qd2 option uses
a regular quick disconnect air chuck for a 100% secure and leak free
connection of the gauge.
-
With either of these two options, you could have 2 gauges, say a
0-30psi gauge for airing down (for better low pressure readings) and a
0-60psi or 0-100psi gauge for airing up if you need the higher pressure
for the road.
-
All gauges will read the pressure continuously, including the digital
gauge, which also has a HOLD mode to take an instantaneous reading and
hold that reading in the display.
-
Note that many digital tire pressure gauges only take a single reading
and then you need to hit a reset button or disconnect/reconnect them to
take another pressure reading, so having a continuous readout is a bit
time saver if you are trying to zero in on a specific pressure in your
tires.
-
The digital gauge reads out to 0.1psi resolution, and reads down to
about 2psi and uses a standard 9 volt battery and has an auto-off
feature to conserve battery power and also has a back light option for
night time use.
-
Quick disconnect air fitting for connecting to on-board air sources
such as listed here:
-
Makes an excellent add-on for the PowerTank CO2 air system
with the extreme-duty hose (4air-edh) and brass fittings (4air-edf) and the PowerTank (4air-pt) quick disconnect
upgrades.
-
Coiled air hose with quick disconnect fittings for extending the reach
of the system
-
You can also use a user-supplied digital tire pressure gauge with
accurate readings to 2.5 psi for getting really low
-
Custom/extra ports on the central air manifold for custom connections
such as SCUBA tank fittings, etc.
-
Spare hose sections are available for fast field repairs
-
Carrying bag
-
For extreme conditions, I offer an extreme-duty version, with higher
pressure, all metal fittings, hose flexible to -40°F(or °C).
-
The current hose and fittings are rated for 200 psi and -20°F.
-
A 5th tire valve chuck and quick connect for use in airing up from a
spare tire. Hook the 5th chuck to the manifold and spare, open the
valve and use the air in your spare to increase the other 4 tires.
-
Assuming an equal sized spare, divide the pressure difference of the
spare and the other 4 tires by 5, this is the amount of air you can
increase the tire pressure by. For example, spare at 50psi, tires at
10psi, difference is 40psi, divided by 5 is 8psi. Therefore all 5 tires
will end up at about 18psi (10+8) after they equalize.
-
More information on this available here.
(1)
(2)
-
In the top-left picture (1) you can see the following:
-
The basic 4air system in the center (black hose
and fittings)
-
An optional integral air pressure gauge to replace the Schrader valve
port on the manifold block
-
Also pictured is a user-supplied digital air pressure gauge that can be
used with the system, this is the one I personally use, reads to as low
as 2.5 psi in 0.5 psi increments
-
An optional (yellow) coiled air hose with quick-disconnect fittings to
hook you your on-board air compressor
-
Also pictured, below the digital gauge, are some adaptors I've found
useful:
-
On the left is a quick-connect Schrader valve that can be used for
airing up from gas station air compressors, handy if you have the
integral pressure gauge installed
-
On the right, is a quick-connect coupler with chuck, to plug into the
coiled hose if you only need to air up one tire, saves unpacking the
larger hose
-
In the top-right picture (2) you can see the original
Quadra-Flate design and some of my mods:
-
The nylon T-fittings have crimped-on hose ferrules, making field repair
or modifications difficult without the proper tooling.
-
The front wheel side hose section is too short for typical off-road
tires sizes. This results in the whole hose hanging off the valve
chuck, which can cause it to leak or fall off. I would have lengthened
mine, but since the fittings are crimped, I couldn't justify the $200
for the crimping tool just to modify two hose ends.
-
The length of the rear wheel hose is not long enough to reach between
my 105" wheelbase 4Runner, if the valve stems end up on opposite
sides, I have to air up the front then the back tires separately.
-
The cheap plastic handle on the main air valve broke off years ago,
making it hard to operate and to see which way the valve is turned,
-
The integral air gauge got banged around in use and became inaccurate,
I replaced it once then removed it and installed a Schrader valve. To
measure pressure, just hook up your favorite gauge, to air up at a gas
station, put the air chuck on the fitting, no fuss, no muss.
(3)
(4)
(5)
-
In the left picture (3), you can see a closeup of some of
the various attachments and fittings I can supply with the system or
you can add them yourself:
-
To the far left is a digital pressure gauge to use on your tires or on
a Schrader valve on the 4air system
-
Just to the right of pressure gauge hose is a quick connect coupler and
male and female 1/4" NPT fittings
-
Above that is a quick-connect couple with a Schrader valve installed,
this is a quick way to air up from a gas station compressor, just clip
this onto the 4air fitting and air right up. Just
to the right of the coupler w/ valve is a separate Schrader valve that
came with my Quadra-Flate system for comparison.
-
In the upper-right corner is a quick-connect press-on air chuck, which
is a handy attachment with the extension air hose (pictured to the
right) to air up one tire
-
Below the press-on air chuck is a clip-on air chuck, just like the ones
used on the 4air system.
-
To the left of the clip-on chuck is a pipe thread to hose barb adapter,
this would allow you to splice your existing 1/4" ID air hose to
the 4air system or make field repairs, etc.
-
In the center picture (4) is a closeup of the coiled
extension air hose with quick-connect coupler fittings.
-
I outfit my on-board compressor with one of these couplers (it shuts
off the air flow when disconnected)
-
When I need to air up, I plug the coiled hose into the compressor
coupler then plug the 4air into the extension
coupler
-
If I only need to air up one tire, the coiled hose and the press-on air
chuck are all I need
-
In the right picture (5) is a picture of the optional
storage bag for the 4air system.
-
This heavy canvas bag is just the right size to hold the coiled air
hoses and keep them from getting tangled and protects the hose and
fittings from dirt and damage while not being used.
-
I also try to keep a tire patch kit and other tire-related items in my
storage bag.
(6)
(7)
-
In the left picture (6)
is a close-up of the tire valve chuck options:
-
On the left is the basic right-angle clip-on chuck
-
This is the default tire chuck included in basic air hose setups
-
In the center is the straight-on (Euro) style clip on chuck
-
Air hose systems may be updated to this type of chuck with the 4air-euc option
-
On the right is the straight-on clipless style chuck
-
Air hose systems may be updated to this type of chuck with the 4air-clc option
-
Valve stem fitment:
-
The clip-on chucks (right angle and Euro-style) require approx.
3/8" of valve stem thread to seat fully
-
The clipless chuck needs almost 1/2" of valve stem length with
3/8" threaded plus an additional 1/8" that can be unthreaded
but the same OD as the threads.
-
In summary:
-
The clipless chuck offers the most secure seal since it grips on
opposite sides of the valve stem, but is the most demanding of the
valve stem shape (as noted above).
-
It also requires the most finger dexterity since you need to grasp the
hose in your palm and then squeeze the chuck body with a thumb and
finger and pull back to release the grip.
-
The basic right angle clip-on chuck is the most affordable and fits the
widest variety of valve stems.
-
It is the only one allowing right angle access to the valve stem.
-
So if you have a hard to access valve stem, this chuck requires the
least clearance above the end of the valve stem as it clips on at a
~90° angle.
-
It is also the only chuck that is easy to open up for cleaning and to
replace/flip the rubber sealing washer if needed.
-
The Euro-style chuck offers the best combination of valve stem fitment
and sealing integrity.
-
It is as easy to use as the right angle chuck with just a simple lever
squeeze.
-
Also consider your access to the valve stems when selecting a chuck.
-
The clipless chuck goes straight onto the stem, requires minimal space
to the side.
-
The basic clip-on chuck need the most room to one side since the air
hose and clip come out at a right angle to the valve stem.
-
The Euro-style chuck is someplace in between, it needs some room to one
side for the clip, but the hose comes out in line with the valve stem.
-
And rest assured, all the above chucks fit the standard Schrader valve
that is used on tires world-wide. In the topsy-turvy world of tires
that can have a metric section width dimension, a dimension-less aspect
ratio and an imperial wheel diameter (i.e. P225-70R15), the venerable
Schrader valve is one common and unchanging and actually not metric or
imperial in dimension. The Schrader valve cap thread is ~0.305"
dia. and ~32 threads/inch or in metric M7.7x0.794.
-
Interestingly, it is this odd size, because back in 1844 when August
Schrader invented the valve, that is the size thread cutting die he had
in his shop, so that is what he used. The rest is history, nearly 170
years later all Schrader valves have that odd thread pitch cap as well
as the 0.209"x36 thread pitch for the valve core.
-
No matter which style chuck you use, you may run into a case where a
given chuck does not fit well on a given valve stem.
-
Often it is just a matter of working with that chuck/valve combination,
seating and re-seating it a few times to loosen things up and get the
hang of using that chuck on that valve. Often times, a little shot of
dry silicone spray lube inside the chuck will help if something is
sticking inside.
-
Luckily, it is easy to swap the 4air
chucks around on the hose to get a good fit, so give that a try. We
sometimes find chuck-A will not work with valve-B and chuck-C will not
work with valve-D, but swap them around and chuck-A works fine with
valve-D and chuck-C works fine with valve-B.
-
And tire valve stems do wear out over time, especially when used
off-road. They get dirty, scraped on rocks, etc. and at some point, no
chuck will seal up to them. That is probably one reason tire shops
always push the new tire valves when you replace tires. So if you have
one valve that just will not work, it is easy to have it swapped out at
a tire shop.
-
In the right picture (7) is close-up of the extreme-duty
hose and all-brass fittings and clipless chucks.
-
This hose (Buna-N rubber) has a temperature range to handle CO2
inflation systems like the Power Tank.
-
It is also more flexible than the standard duty hose (thermoplastic
rubber)
-
The brass fittings and stronger hose have higher pressure ratings than
the standard hose and fittings
-
All the 2air/4air systems make use of press fit hose
fittings for clean appearance and tangle-free operation. No hose clamps
to snag everything in sight, and unlike the crimped type hose ends, the
all-threaded assembly allows for field modifications and repairs. For
example, a 2air system could be converted to a 4air with
a few extra fitting and hose sections. I found the crimped on hoses of
my old Quadra Flate were a severe limitation to modifying it, which is
why I ended up designing the 4air system.
(8)
(9)
(10)
(11)
-
And new for 2013, we know have a leak
free screw-on tire valve chuck options available:
-
This is the solution for tough to seal tire valve stems. These valve
screws screw fully onto the tire valve stem and have a rubber o-ring
that seals tightly against the top of the Schrader valve stem (4air-soc
for 4air Screw On Chuck)
-
In photo (8) above, you can see the screw on chuck by
itself, note that it uses a hose barb type fitting, so you can attach
it to your 1/4" ID rubber air hose with a simple hose clamp (not
included).
-
And for custom setups, we can build most any sort of assembly off these
chucks that you want, we can add stub hoses, a valve, a guage, etc.
-
Just let us know what you are looking for and we'll be happy to give
you a quote.
-
For example:
-
We have been asked in the past to supply a multi-way air hose with
screw on fittings to attach to multiple inner tubes in a floating raft
to allow maintaining equal pressure in the tubes with a permanent,
leak-free air hose attachment.
-
And we have been asked to supply a custom screw on nitrogen pressure
gauge with the screw on chuck and a pressure release valve on the air
hose between the chuck and gauge so that internal pressure can be
released prior to unscrewing the chuck.
-
And although the basic screw-on chuck is only available in a hose barb
fitting, we can custom build a chuck with a very short section of
rubber hose, just long enough to press a 1/4" NPT hose fitting
(male or female thread) into so that the chuck can easily be screwed
onto the end of a threaded end hose. This would be ideal for
retrofitting an older 4air hose or adding
to your own air hose.
-
In photo (9) above, you can see the chuck screwed down
snugly onto a Schreader valve stem.
-
In photo (10) above, is the same chuck removed from the
Schrader valve (note: Scrader valve not included)
-
These chucks are a bit different than the other ones we use (pictured
in the section above), in that they are not available in a 1/4"
NPT pipe thread version, so instead we have to use a crimped hose
connection instead.
-
This is a solid, leak-free connection and should hold up for the life
of the hose, but it is not field replaceable like the threaded chucks.
-
The other difference is that these chucks are "open".
That is they flow air at all times, connected or not.
-
The other chucks we use are "closed"
chucks and have internal valves that shut off the air flow when they
are not connected to a Schrader valve.
-
This may be an advantage or disadvantage depending on the application:
-
Advantages of the open chuck are:
-
They flow more air as there is no restrictive valving inside.
-
Less likely to be affected by dirt and grit getting inside and clogging
up the internal valving
-
And for applications where you want to leave the hose connected to the
tire all the time, open/closed makes no difference.
-
One request we have had in the past for a permanently connected hose
was for inflatable rafts or boats where you want to connect multiple
air chambers or inner tubes together permanently for easy inflation and
pressure adjustments.
-
Disadvantage of the open chuck is that as you disconnect each chuck
from a tire, air will leak out that fitting and continue leaking out
until you disconnect the last of the chucks (2 or 4) from the other
tires.
-
For larger tires or a large compressor, this may not be an issue
especially if you have an assistant for the other side of the vehicle
and you work in tandem.
-
But we have a solution for the open chuck and that is a small in-line
air valve (4air-vlv) shown in photo (11) above.
With that valve, you can manually open or close the air flow to the
chuck.
-
Some benefits of this manual valve is that if you wanted to air up one
axle to a different pressure than the other axle, you could fill to the
lower pressure, then shut off the air to the tires you want at the
lower pressure then continue filling the other tires toa higher
pressure.
-
Also, for use in sand and similar conditions, you can use the valve to
help blow the tire valve chucks clear of sand, dirt or mud.
-
To do this, hook the 4air hose to the compressor, and pump the
compressor up to pressure.
-
Then at each valve, open the valve briefly to purge any dirt out of the
chuck, then close the valve and screw it onto the tire valve stem.
Repeat at each tire. Then, if airing down, disconnect the 4air hose
from the compressor and let the air out of the tires.
-
The in-line valves can be placed at each chuck for maximum flexibility
or to save money, we can put one on each side of the 4air hose, so you
could shut off air to one side and quickly disconnect the two chucks on
that side and then shut off air to the other side and repeat, or put
the valves in the hose between the front and rear tires on each side.
Then shut the valves, disconnect the 2 rear tires then disconnect the
front tires with minimal air loss. So we can set it up any way you
want.
-
And the screw-on chuck can also be used to repair an existing air hose
or even an old bicycle pump or 12 volt compressor with a leaking tire
valve chuck.
-
Simply cut off the old chuck and slip the barbed end of the screw-on
chuck into the rubber hose and use a hose clamp to secure it in place.
-
The chucks fit typical rubber air hose with 1/4" inner diameter
(ID).
-
You'll need to supply the hose clamp of suitable size to fit the outer
diameter (OD) of the hose you have.
-
The hose clamp should cost about $1 at a local hardware or auto parts
store.
[back to the top]
The key to the 4air (and 2air) system is the central manifold. This is
the key part that connects the two sides together to a common point and
is also where the main controls are located as well as where optional
accessories can be added:
 |
 |
Basic manifold:
- Male chuck
- Control Valve
- Schrader valve |
Adding options:
- Clip on Schrader valve
- 30 psi gauge replaces the
Schrader valve |
 |
 |
4air-60 + 4air-qd1
- Pressure gauge w/ euro chuck |
4air-60 + 4air-qd2
- Manifold w/ female disc.
- Pressure gauge w/ male disc. |
Think of the manifold as one of those round Tinker Toy
pieces to which you can plug in various rods and other parts. You have
4 ports, two go to each side hose, one has a manual valve and exhaust
port for airing down. The 4th port can have something in it. I prefer
the basic Schrader tire valve, it lets me check the system pressure
with a gauge, I can air up at gas stations, etc. If you prefer, a
pressure gauge can replace the Schrader valve. Note that the digital
gauge can't be installed on the manifold, it needs to use a Schrader
valve connection.
I personally don't like having the pressure gauge hard mounted on the
manifold (from years of experience).
-
First, the gauge is prone to damage and simply getting knocked out of
calibration.
-
Second, I like a separate gauge, and I use a digital version
-
It is accurate down low and accurate up high
-
I like ONE gauge that is relatively accurate and reliable
-
Third, I like to use the SAME gauge to check the 4air pressure and I
like to double check the individual tire pressures
-
If you have two gauges, its unlikely they will both read the same
-
Two options for a quick disconnect gauge are
shown above:
-
4air-qd1: Install it off a quick disconnect tire valve chuck and then
you can clip it onto the Schrader valve on the 4Air manifold or connect
it to a tire valve stem to check it's pressure.
-
The cost of this option is $10.00 (4air-qd1) plus the cost of the
gauge, specify the type of tire valve chuck you want attached;
standard, Euro-style or clip-less chuck.
-
4air-qd2: Install a female quick disconnect on the manifold and a male
quick disconnect fitting on the gauge.
-
The cost of this option is $15.00 (4air-qd2) plus the cost of the
gauge. This offers the most secure and leak free gauge attachment
option.
-
If you wish to use the gauge to check the tire pressure, you can
connect it to a spare tire air chuck (4air-ac).
-
Either of these options will let you connect the gauge to the 4Air
manifold when needed and take it off when its not needed.
Then, off the exhaust port and its quick disconnect air chuck, you can
add other accessories for other purposes:
-
Connect to an on-board air compressor or Power Tank via an extension
hose and female chuck
-
Connect to a spare tire with another tire chuck and extension line to
fill a low tire
-
Connect a Schrader valve to air up at a gas station
All these options are not meant to be confusing, its just a very
flexible system. I have developed and used them all to address various
needs in years of field use of the 4air system. Start out with the
basic system and as you use it and encounter situations where you need
to do something different, chances are. I've come up with something to
address that need.
The tire valve chucks (either clip-on or clip-less) include automatic
shutoff valves inside so they only flow air when connected to a
Schrader valve on your tire. If left disconnected, they shot off the
air flow. This allows you to connect the chucks to the tires without
the air leaking out of the connected tires. Also, it allows you to set
different pressures for different axles. For example, if you wanted to
air up your back tires to 25 psi and the fronts to 30 psi, you could
air up all 4 tires to 25 psi, then close the air valve at the manifold,
disconnect the 2 rear tire chucks, then re-open the manifold valve and
continue airing up the remaining 2 tires to 30 psi. With tires
connected to the air hoses, and the manifold valve closed, the air
pressure in all the connected tires will equalize automatically in a
few seconds.
If you still are having trouble configuring a system for your own
needs, send 4Crawler
Offroad an e-mail and tell us what you want to be able to do and I
can help you configure a 2air or 4air system to fit your needs. As
mentioned elsewhere, I've set up systems to work off of Scuba tanks,
I've built systems for big rigs to air up their "dualies",
I've made systems that let you air up from a spare tire, etc.
[back to the top]
If you are confused by this chuck and that chuck, so was
I (and still am to some degree :). In this page, there are two basic
types of chucks:
-
Chucks to connect up to a Schrader valve on a tire
-
I have two types:
-
One that has an external clip
-
One that has an internal clip
-
Quick disconnect chucks, of which there are many varieties
-
They come in male and female versions
Seems like every maker of anything to do with air has come up with a
chuck of one sort of another. They all had perfectly good reasons for
their own design, but invariably the different chucks would not fit
each other.

Click on the image above for a summary of the most common air chuck
designs. I use the Milton or Industrial (M or I) type chuck, since it
appears to be the most common chuck design. Air tools use it, most
hardware and auto parts stores carry it and there is even a
"universal" female chuck that fits both it and the type
"T" chuck. Type T is made by TruFlate and is supposed to be a
superior design (according to TruFlate) and they are pushing it for
automotive use. The folks at Power Tank sometimes use type T chucks. I
offer an upgrade to Type T chucks with the 4air-pt
option (see below). If planning to connect the 4Air system to another
air system, be sure to check the type of chuck required:

Pictured above are the female and male Type T chucks on top and the
Type I female and male chucks on the bottom. They are slightly
different. Which one should you use?
-
If you already have air equipment set up with one type of chuck, get
the 4air set up with that same type of chuck
-
If you are planning to get air equipment set up with a particular type
of chuck, then get the 4air set up the same way
-
If this is your first air chucked piece of equipment, get Type I and
then if you later add more air equipment, get Type I as well.
-
If you later have to change, all is not lost. All parts are field
replaceable, you can find replacement chucks most anyplace or I can
supply you with the type you need.
[back to the top]

Using the 4air system is very easy. In the picture,
above, I've connected the 4air hoses to my valve stems,
then connected the manifold to my compressor, using a coiled air hose.
The chucks stay on the valve stems and I can walk away and do other
things while the compressor fills the tires. To air down, just open the
air valve and let the air out, in detail:
-
To air down:
-
Unroll the hoses, running one down each side of the vehicle
-
Be careful to not place the hose too close to the tires at this point.
-
As you air down, the tire will flatten and trap the hose.
-
If this happens, you may have to roll the vehicle off the hose before
you can put it away.
-
Remove the valve caps and clip on the corresponding air chuck
-
To prolong chuck and valve stem life, depress the lever on the chuck,
push it onto the stem, then release it to avoid wearing out the threads
on the valve stem itself. The retaining clip is spring steel but your
valve stems are probably made of brass
-
Once the threads get worn too much, the chucks may not stay fastened
securely
-
If you do wear out the valve stem threads, you can have them changed
(good idea with new tires) or screw on a valve stem extender. I carry a
set of these with me, also handy if you have hard-to-reach valve stems
-
With the clip-less chucks, you can also get a tighter seal by turning
the chuck about 90 degrees after installing it, the opposing clamping
jaws will follow the valve stem thread and "screw down"
tighter
-
Open the control valve to release the air in the tires
-
Periodically test the tire pressure by closing the valve and reading
the air gauge
-
With practice, you get used to both the air down time and also sound
change as the pressure drops
-
When the desired trail pressure is reached, close the control valve and
allow the tire pressures to stabilize and recheck.
-
Sometimes one tire will air down a bit slower and you may find that the
pressure comes up a bit
-
Disconnect each air chuck, reinstall the valve cover and roll up the
air hoses
-
To air up:
-
Turn on your on-board air compressor so the tank is filling (if
applicable)
-
If your system has no air tank/storage or lacks a high
pressure shutoff switch, leave the compressor off until you have the
air hose connected to the tires. You can connect the compressor output
hose to the 4air manifold now as long as it is a leak-free connection.
-
Unroll the hoses, running one down each side of the vehicle
-
Remove the valve covers and clip on the corresponding air chuck
-
To prolong chuck and valve stem life, depress the lever on the chuck,
push it onto the stem, then release it to avoid wearing out the threads
-
Connect the your air source to the 4air system
-
Open the control valve to allow air to enter the tires
-
If you are using a lower pressure built-in air gauge, open the valve
slowly to avoid over pressuring the gauge.
-
If your air system lacks storage or a high pressure
shutoff switch for the compressor, you would simply connect the 4air
manifold to the compressor (if not already connected), with the 4air
manifold valve open and then turn on the compressor to avoid high
pressure spikes.
-
Periodically test the tire pressure by closing the valve and reading
the air gauge:
-
You can check pressure with the valve open, but it'll read a bit high
depending on your air source flow rate
-
When the desired street pressure is reached, close the control valve
and allow the tire pressures to stabilize and recheck, sometimes one
tire will air up a bit slower and you may find that the pressure drops
up a bit
-
If your compressor lacks a high pressure cutoff switch
or an air storage tank, you'll want to turn the compressor off prior to
closing the 4air manifold valve to keep from over pressuring the
compressor.
-
Disconnect each air chuck, reinstall the valve cap and roll up the air
hoses
-
A couple of tips when using the 4air system:
-
Sometimes the air chucks will stick open and allow air to leak out,
this most often happens when you are airing down, since the internal
pressure is low. Usually rapping the chuck on the side of the tire or
the ground will knock the internal piece loose that seals the chuck. I
also find a shot of silicon spray into each chuck once or twice a year
helps keep them working smoothly.
-
If you find the air chuck levers get tangled in the hose as you unroll
it, take some electricians tape and wrap it around the lever and chuck
body. I color coded mine with different colors on each side so I could
sort out the two side hoses easier.
-
I carry a set of metal valve stem extensions in my air up kit. In the
event you run into a valve stem that won't hold the chuck, or a tire
with too short a valve stem, simply screw on an extension and hook up
the chuck.
-
One option is to combine the 4air
system with the Oasis Off Road automatic tire deflator
-
By setting one of the Oasis
deflators to your normal off-road tire pressure, you simply screw it
onto the 4air system and it'll take all 4
tires down to that pressure, without the hassle of getting all 4
deflators set to the same exact pressure. Here's a picture of the Oasis Deflator installed on the 4air
manifold
-
If desired, a single Oasis deflator is available for US$25.00 for use
with the 4Air system.
-
Deflators are adjustable for 5-20 psi cutoff pressure and screw onto a
standard Schrader valve, either on the 4Air manifold (if no gauge is
present) or on a 4air-sv quick
connect Schrader valve.
-
For faster deflation times, you can air down the tires most of the way
with the open air valve then when you are 5-10 psi above your target
pressure, install the Oasis deflator and let it take the pressure down
the rest of the way. The Oasis deflator is somewhat flow-limited, so
while airing down all the way with the deflator does work, it can take
about 3-4 times as long as the 4Air alone. So by releasing the bulk of
the air before attaching the Oasis valve can help speed things up.
-
You can also carry several Oasis deflators and have each one set to a
different pressure if you use different tire pressures for different
conditions. For example 20 psi on gravel roads, 15 psi in the rocks and
10 psi in the snow or sand.
-
When using the clip-less chucks, see below for proper use:
-
Pull back on the housing to release the spring tension on the internal
gripping jaws as shown below-left
-
Then slip the chuck over the valve stem, pressing it down firmly before
releasing the housing as shown below-right
-
Removal is the reverse, push down on the chuck and pull back on the
housing to release the jaws
-
While it is possible to push the chuck down over the threads, the
hardened steel jaws will quickly strip the soft brass threads on the
valve stem


-
If using the 4Air system with a CO2 type air tank (Power Tank for
example)m you may find the air valve gets too cold to handle due to the
extremely low temperatures of the expanding CO2 gas.
-
In this case, use the valve on the CO2 tank to turn the gas on and off.
-
You might also be able to wear a pair of heavy gloves to insulate your
hands from the cold.
-
Or use a long, coiled polyurethane air hose between the CO2 tank and
the 4Air valve. This may let some of the cold dissipate before reaching
the air valve.
One benefit of airing up all 4 tires at once, is that it slows the rate
of pressure rise. This allows you more time to get your gear packed for
the trip back home, re-connect sway bars, mud flaps, etc. without
having to constantly check air pressures. With 33x9.50 tires and a 2.2
CFM on-board compressor, it takes about 6-7 minutes to air up from 15
to 30 psi, or about 2 psi/minute. With larger 33x15.50 tires it takes
about 15 minutes to go from 10-30, so you have plenty of time to do
other things without checking on the tire pressure or moving the air
hose from tire to tire. If you have a high-capacity air system, this
may not be as big a benefit, but for an electric compressor, this alone
will pay for the system.
I have a page with information on tire
inflation and deflation information located here. I did some timing
measurements with deflating a set of 33x10.50-15 tires from 30 psi to
15 psi.
-
With the 4air all by itself I measured 2 minutes
including one stop to check the air pressure at 1 minute (this is for
all 4 tires combined).
-
With a single Oasis Deflator on one tire, I timed about 4.5 minutes for
the same pressure drop.
-
With a single Oasis Deflator on the 4air manifold, I
timed about 15 minutes for the deflation.
-
It seems the Oasis Deflator is flow rate limited to something under 1
CFM.
-
The advantage of this setup is there is no need to "baby sit"
the deflator, you can be doing other things while the tires are
deflating.
-
Or, for faster deflation with the Oasis deflator, first let out the
majority of the air through the main air valve, then as you get to the
last 5 psi or so, close the main vale and let the Oasis deflator finish
up.
-
Of course, smaller tires will have shorter times and larger tires will
have longer times, directly related by the tire volume which I have
listed on the page referenced above.
-
Important Notes:
-
1. If you have a 2air or 4air system with a built-in
gauge, especially the lower pressure versions (0-30psi), you need to
exercise a little caution with how you connect the system and use it.
What you want to do is avoid over pressuring the gauge with air. So for
example, to air up your tires, you would first want to connect all the
air chucks to the tire valve stems. Only then do you want to connect
your air source to the chuck on the inflator manifold, doing so with
the air valve closed. Then, slowly open the air valve to allow air to
flow into the tires. If you were to first connect the air source to the
manifold and open the air valve, the air hoses (and gauge) would run up
to air pressure of your air source, maybe 100psi or higher.
-
Several options are available if you still wish a built-in gauge but
want to be able to disconnect it when not needed. You can order the
gauge of your choice with an extra air chuck to screw onto the gauge
and a Schrader valve to screw into the manifold. This way you can clip
the gauge to that manifold Schrader valve and it'll work just like it
is built in and you can also use that same gauge on individual tires as
well. Another option is to attach a female quick disconnect on the
manifold and a male quick disconnect fitting on the gauge and this way
you can put the gauge in place and it'll be as solid as if it were
screwed into the manifold and you can easily unplug it if needed.
-
And fear not if you do happen to over pressure the gauge. You may
notice that the gauge reading is off afterwards. But it is a simple
matter to unscrew the face off the gauge and remove the two small
screws in back and slide out the gauge workings for adjustment. There
is a copper "Bourdon Tube" that operates the gauge. Is is
essentially a flatten copper tube wound into a "?" shape. It
is very easy to adjust the tube, just like they do in the gauge
factory. Take a pair of small needle nose pliers, wrap the tips with
some tape to protect the soft copper. Then gently fold the tube near
the middle of the curved part (you do not want to apply any
force on the pliers) and gently twist the tube inward to
reset the needle. The way the tube works is that as pressure builds
inside, it tries to straighten out (kind of like one of those party
toys you had as a kid). So if the tube is over pressured, it will be a
little too straight and you want to very gently bend
some curve back into it. Start easy and give just the
slightest twist with the pliers, then release the tension
and see where the needle points. If it needs to go farther to sit
properly at 0 psi, then repeat the twist with just a tiny bit more
pressure and recheck. Once you get the feel for it, you can usually get
the needle back to 0 in a few tries. The key is to be GENTLE,
you don't want to crush or kink the tube. I have used this
technique many times and it has worked well for me. Have even used it
to "calibrate" the gauge for a more accurate reading, at
least compared to a second gauge. This way I can make say a 30 psi
reading on the 4air gauge match the 30 psi reading on
my regular tire gauge.
-
2. Also, you should take care of the air chucks on the end of the hose.
They are, after all, precision devices in order to fit the valve stems
on your tires and seal properly. And they are often used in less than
pristine environments, since the reason you are airing your tires down
or up is that you are (or have been) off pavement. So take care not to
needlessly expose the chucks to too much dirt and sand. Why will
tolerate some dirt, but you don't have to over-do it by dragging the
chucks through deep sand or step on them and crush sand/dirt into them,
etc. If mine do get dirty, I'll hold them up and tap on a piece of wood
or a tire sidewall to shake any trapped dirt loose. With the clip-less
checks, you can also find grit getting into the sliding outer part. If
that happens, hole the chuck with the hose end down and operated the
sleeve up and down until the grit has worked free. If it gets really
jammed up, you can pop the snap ring on the very end loose (do so some
place clean and where parts will not fly out of sight). Then the sleeve
can be slid off, exposing the internal spring and pair of clamping
jaws. Note that the jaws are 4-sided, so can be rotated to expose a
sharp corner if you find the exposed corner has rounded off with use.
I've not had to do this with mine in over 10 years of use, so not a
common thing that needs to be done. And, if you find any of the chucks
getting stiff over time, a light spray of dry silicone lube on the
moving parts (including inside) can help free them up. Avoid using any
lube that will leave a sticky residue as this will just attract dirt
over time.
[back to the top]
Configuration of the 4air/2air system components is
listed below:
-
The lengths below refer to the wheel base capabilities of a given air
hose setup.
-
Ideally, select a system with a length equal to or greater than the
wheel base of the vehicles(s) it will be used upon.
-
The 2air systems have 2 tire chucks instead of 4 like the 4air system,
they airing up 2 tires at once.
-
The 2air-s/m/l systems are essentially 1/2 of the similar 4air system,
basically the manifold and a hose to run down one side of the vehicle
to allow filling two tires on one side of the vehicle at once.
-
The 2air-a system is for filling both tires on one axle at the same
time (2 tires with AIR on one Axle). It is like the front half of a
4air system, manifold in the middle and a hose to each side for each
tire. So fill the front tires, then move to the back of the vehicle and
and fill the back tires.
-
4x4Wire did a
good review on the 2air system.
-
Default air systems are priced with the
standard clip-on style tire chucks.
-
For the Euro-style or clip-less chucks, add the appropriate upgrade
item below (4air-euc or 4air-clc)
-
Any part numbers with links will bring up an image of the item.
So, which parts do I need? Well, it all depends on what you want to do.
-
The 3 basic 4air systems will let you hook up to 4 tires and add or
remove air from them at the same time
-
The 3 basic 2air systems will let you hook up to 2 tires and add or
remove air from them at the same time
The systems will have an air control valve to let air in or out and a
Schrader valve on the manifold to let you check air pressure with your
tire pressure gauge or add air from a gas station air hose. The basic
systems will also have tire valve chucks for all the tires they are
designed to connect to and those chucks have automatic shut-offs to
keep air from leaking out when not attached.
Then there are a number of adapters or upgrades you can add onto the
basic system to suit your needs:
-
Then there are a selection of air pressure gauges that can attach to
the manifold to monitor the air pressure in the hose and several
options if you want to have the gauges removable.
-
There is an extension hose to use to connect the air manifold to your
air compressor.
-
An adapter to let you add a Schrader valve to the manifold which either
gives you a second air addition port or can restore the Schrader valve
lost with a hard mounted gauge.
-
An adapter to clip onto a spare tire or other air storage with a
Schrader valve and use that air to add to your other tires.
-
A handy canvas bag to store the coiled up air hose and adapters.
-
Options to upgrade thee basic air hose to a heavy duty version that is
more flexible and can tolerate lower temperature such as with CO2
inflator tanks or for use in extreme winter conditions. Likewise an
upgrade from the basic nylon hose fittings to an all-brass option for
more durability, especially in cold conditions.
-
Then there are options to change out the tire valve chucks to different
designs that attach and operate in different ways to suite your needs.
-
Then you may already have a different style of air chucks on your
existing air compressor or CO2 tank system and you can swap out the
default type-I chucks for the type-T chucks. Type-T chucks are often
used on the popular Power Tank CO2 systems, so be sure to check what
type of chuck you already have.
-
Finally, you can customize your 4air or 2air hose with additional hose
length, say you have a 160" wheel base and the 130" 4air-l
system would be too short to reach from the front to the back wheels.
So that is 30" (or 2.5") of extra hose on each side for a
4air system, so add 5' of additional hose to your 4air-l order and
we'll add 2.5' to each side to extend the 4air-l to 160" wheel
base.
-
And the last option is an adjustable, automatic tire deflator that you
can screw onto a Schrader valve and have it automatically let air out
of the attached tires until the pre-set pressure is reached.
So, determine what all sorts of things you want to do with your
4air/2air system and the figure out which adapters/upgrades you need to
do that. Or drop us an e-mail
with a list of what you want to do and we can configure a system for
you.
-
Don't just e-mail us and ask us what system you need, because we don't
know what you want to do, tell us what you want to do with the system
as well.
You can think of this system like a set of Tinker Toys, everything
pretty much is plug and play.
-
The tire chucks fit onto standard tire Schrader valves.
-
The quick disconnect chucks all plug into the mating chuck.
-
The default air manifold will have one Schrader valve and one male
quick disconnect chuck.
About the only consideration you need to make is that there are male
and female chucks and Schrader valves
-
So just like your old Tinker Toy set, you have to have one rod (male
chuck) and one joint piece (female chuck) to be able to attach the
pieces together.
And Schrader valves and different that quick disconnects.
-
The 4air-sv that provides a male Schrader valve attached to a female
quick disconnect chuck
-
The 4air-ac that provides a (female) tire chuck attached to a male
quick disconnect chuck
And don't worry, if there is some combination of chucks/genders/types
that we don't list, ask and we can probably come up with a solution for
you. Nice thing is we make use of standard 1/4" pipe thread
fittings on everything so it is usually just a matter of screwing the
right bits together to make up a custom adapter or fitting.
, so after
configuring your air hose kit, select a shipping
option below...
| Part |
Description |
Price (US$) |
Order |
| 4air-s |
Small (up to 90" wheel base) 4air system |
$105.00 |
|
| 4air-m |
Medium (up to 110" wheel base) 4air
system |
$110.00 |
|
| 4air-l |
Large (up to 130" wheel base) 4air system |
$115.00 |
|
| 2air-a |
One-axle 2air system |
$65.00 |
|
| 2air-s |
Small (90") 2air system |
$70.00 |
|
| 2air-m |
Medium (110") 2air system |
$72.50 |
|
| 2air-l |
Large (130") 2air system |
$75.00 |
|
| 4air-30 |
0-30 psi analog gauge |
$15.00 |
|
| 4air-60 |
0-60 psi analog gauge |
$15.00 |
|
| 4air-100 |
0-100 psi analog gauge |
$15.00 |
|
| 4air-dp100 |
0-100 psi digital gauge |
$100.00 |
 |
| ***4air-qd1 |
Quick disconnect gauge upgrade w/
tire chuck attached |
$ 10.00 |
|
| ***4air-qd2 |
Quick disconnect gauge upgrade w/
quick disconnect chuck attached |
$ 15.00 |
|
| 4air-ext |
Coiled extension hose w/ chucks
also in rubber hose, $10.00 + length |
$20.00 |
|
| 4air-sv |
Quick-connect Schrader valve |
$15.00 |
|
| 4air-ac |
Quick-connect/spare air chuck |
$20.00 |
|
| 4air-dfl |
Automatic deflator valve (Oasis) |
$ 25.00 |
|
| 4air-bag |
Heavy canvas storage bag |
$20.00 |
|
| 4air-edh |
Extreme Duty Hose, 4air upgrade |
+ $30.00 |
|
| 2air-edh |
Extreme Duty Hose, 2air upgrade |
+ $15.00 |
 |
| *4air-edf |
Extreme Duty Fittings, 4air upgrade |
+ $12.00 |
|
| *2air-edf |
Extreme Duty Fittings, 2air upgrade |
+ $ 6.00 |
 |
| Ctc |
Clip-type chuck, separate |
$8.00 |
|
| *Clc |
Clip-less chuck, separate |
$10.00 |
|
| *4air-clc |
Clip-less chucks, 4air upgrade |
+ $8.00 |
|
| *2air-clc |
Clip-less chucks, 2air upgrade |
+ $ 5.00 |
 |
| **Euc |
Euro-style chuck, separate |
$10.00 |
|
| **4air-euc |
Euro-style chucks, 4air upgrade |
+ $8.00 |
|
| **2air-euc |
Euro-style chucks, 2air upgrade |
+ $ 4.00 |
 |
| Soc |
Screw-on valve chuck, 1/4" hose barb |
$ 10.00 |
 |
| 4air-soc |
Screw on chucks, 4air upgrade |
$ 30.00 |
 |
| 2air-soc |
Screw-on chucks, 2air upgrade |
$ 15.00 |
 |
| 4air-vlv |
In-line air valve, price for each |
$ 12.50 |
 |
| 4air-pt |
Change to Type T air chucks |
+ $10.00 |
|
| 4air-ash |
Additional Standard Hose |
+ $1.50/ft. |
|
| 4air-aeh |
Additional Extreme Duty Hose |
+ $2.00/ft. |
|
| 6air-tee |
Extend 4air hose to handle 6 wheels |
$ 30.00 |
|
2air / 4air/ 6air - Options and Pricing
, so
after configuring your air hose kit, select a
shipping option below...
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* Clip-less chucks are available as a separate item or as an upgrade to
existing 2/4air systems
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** Euro-style clip-type chucks with the same options as the clip-less
chucks. They feature a straight on design, vs. the right angle of the
regular clip-type chucks, and have a more secure engagement than the
regular clip-type chucks
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*** Quick disconnect air pressure gauge upgrades, described in detail here, must also order a
gauge kit (4air-30, -60 or -100) to upgrade.
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Also noted that with the 4air-qd2 option, you replace the default
Schrader valve on the 4air/2air manifold with a quick disconnect chuck.
So if you still want the option of a Schrader valve on the system,
order a 4air-sv (quick disconnect Schrader valve).
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Likewise, if you order a hard-mounted air pressure gauge (4air-30, -60,
or -100), the gauge replaces the default Schrader valve.
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Or you can order the -qd1 or -qd2 option and then supply your own gauge
as long as it uses a 1/4" NPT male thread base.
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All parts are field serviceable:
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4Crawler Offroad can supply replacement hose sections, chuck
replacement kits, etc. as needed
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For example, on the clip-on air chuck, the inner rubber sealing washer
can wear out over time
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A quick fix that will nearly double its life it to open up the chuck,
remove the washer and flip it over to start using the un-worn surface
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Kits are built to order. Typically about 1-2 weeks for fabrication and
2-3 days for US shipping and 6-10 days for international shipping.
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State, country or zip code needed for shipping/sales tax calculation:
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Add 8.75% sales tax for shipments to a California address
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Add $14.00 for regular or $17.00 for insured shipping on complete air
hose systems, assuming US delivery, for a total
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Typical US shipping time is 2-3 days
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Inquire for international shipping options and also supply a local
phone number for customs paperwork
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New flat rate shipping to Canada/Mexico of US$41.00 for all the above
kits
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New flat rate shipping to most of Europe/Asia/Australia of US$61.00 for
all the above kits
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Typical international shipping time is 6-10 days
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For smaller items like air chucks (up to qty. 4), shipping rates are
typically US$4.00 for first class or US$8.00 for priority mail in the
US or US$24.00 for international shipping.
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Questions?
For shopping cart orders on full air hose kits, add shipping below:
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Priority US shipping
- Add $14.00 shipping |
Insured Priority US shipping
- Add $17.00 shipping |
Canada/Mexico shipping
- Adds $41.00 shipping |
All other countries
- Add $61.00 shipping |
...
For shopping cart orders on chucks and other small parts, add shipping
below:
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First class US shipping
- Add $4.00 shipping |
Insured Priority US shipping
- Add $8.00 shipping |
All other countries
- Add $24.00 shipping |
...
Select the VIew Cart button below to bring back your shopping cart to
check out:
...
For custom orders, add parts total and select shipping option below:
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Purchase w/ regular US shipping
- Add $14.00 shipping automatically |
Purchase w/ insured US shipping
- Add $17.00 shipping automatically |
Purchase w/ other shipping option
- Add shipping to order total |
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Click here for a step by step ordering tutorial.
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In the Payment For field, enter the vehicle and lift
desired:
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For example: 4air-m and storage bag
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In the Price field, enter the parts total for the lift,
including applicable sales tax and shipping
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You can log into an existing Paypal account or enter your credit card
information if you don't have or want to use a Paypal account
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In the Note To Seller/Special Instructions field, enter any
specific options you want in the order
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For example: Kits: 4air-m + 4air-bag
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Via PayPal:
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https://www.paypal.com/
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Login, select: Send Money
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Recipient = sales@4Crawler.com
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Hint: Cut and paste this into the Recipient field
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Enter Amount:
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Be sure to include shipping and applicable sales tax in the total
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Select Funds Source (e.g. checking account, credit
or debit card)
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Using an e-check results in a 3-4 day delay for the funds to clear
Paypal
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For Transaction Type, select: Goods, Non-Auction
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Enter Subject/Note describing items desired
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For example: 4air-m and storage bag
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In the Note To Seller field, enter any specific
options you want in the order
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For example: Kits: 4air-m + 4air-bag
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Check for correct shipping address and hit the "Send"
button
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If in doubt on the address, (or you want to use a different address)
please include the address you want to use in the "NOTE
TO SELLER" field when given the option above.
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Double check the shipping address before hitting the "Send"
button
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Notes:
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Company name will show up as "Visual Diagnostics/4Crawler
Offroad"
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Feel free to e-mail 4Crawler Offroad to let us know you issued the
payment, although we automatically get an e-mail notification to this
effect.
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If you prefer, 4Crawler Offroad can issue a PayPal funds
request/invoice as well
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You should receive a confirmation e-mail from Paypal if the transaction
was successful.
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If you don't have a Paypal account, its easy to set one up using the
link above, enter your name/address/e-mail and account info.
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Credit Card via fax/mail: FAX:+01.772.264.8458
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Supply the following information:
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Name
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Billing/Shipping address
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Phone # and e-mail address
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Credit Card number
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Expiration Date
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And the 3 or 4 digit security code on the back (or front) side of the
card
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Via mail; certified check/money order payable to (US funds):
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4Crawler Offroad
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Attn: Roger Brown
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PO Box 61092
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Sunnyvale, CA 94088-1092 USA
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Via USPS-COD (Collect On Delivery - US only) there is an additional
charge for USPS-COD, typically $10.00
NOTE: Due to high order volume, it may take some time for production and shipments to catch up. Order backlog could be up to 4 weeks.
[back to the top]
If none of the above systems fit your application, custom 4Air systems
can be designed to exactly fit your needs. Examples of custom systems
are extra long wheelbase and/or extra wide 4Air hoses for full sized
pickups. For this application, just supply the wheelbase and/or track
width of the vehicle and add the cost of the extra hose length to the
cost of the desired system above (don't forget that you need extra hose
on each side of the 4Air system). Other custom systems include 6-way
air hoses for vehicles with dual rear wheels such as RVs or dual rear
axles, such as trailers. Also available are custom locations for the
4Air manifold (the place where the air compressor connects). Other
custom system designs have adapted the 4Air hose to fit up to a Scuba
tank regulator with a user-supplied air chuck fitting. Basically if you
have an idea for an air hose setup, let 4Crawler Offroad
know what it is you want and we'll see if we can design something to
suite your requirements.
For custom systems, just specify the lengths of each hose segment of
hose you need to reach from tire to tire and where you want the air
manifold located. For easier measuring, you can use a length of rope or
garden hose to run from point to point, allowing enough slack in the
rope/hose to allow for easy access and then measure the length of the
rope/hose needed. These systems are prices based upon the amount of
hose and fittings needed.
[back to the top]

If you've read this far and are still confused as to what this is all
about, perhaps a little background information is in order. Back in the
late 1990's, an outfit called Quadra-Flate Enterprises
was making a nifty gadget called the Quadra-Flate. They seem to have
since gone out of business as far as I can tell. Anyway, when I got
into 4-wheeling, I bought a Quadra-Flate system, based partly on this product review.
Anyway, I used the QF system for a while, but began to run into some
things I didn't like about it.
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First off, I found you needed 3 hands to operate the thing, one to hold
your air chuck, one to hold the QF manifold and another one to open and
close the air valve to check the air pressure. So I installed a
quick-connect coupler so I could just plug it into my on-board
compressor.
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I already mentioned the gauge problems, so I installed a standard
Schrader valve stem on it so I could hook up nice accurate digital
pressure gauge that I carried separately.
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This also let me use the same gauge to check the tire pressure
separately.
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I found using two different gauges only meant that I didn't know what
pressure I had, since its hard to find 2 gauges that read the same.
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I assume the QF was originally designed for use on a Jeep, as it would
probably be ideal for an 80" wheel base vehicle.
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Any more than that and the hoses may not always reach, and in any even
they seem to have been designed to fit 26" street tires, not the
33"+ off-road tires that I run.
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And since the hose fittings were crimped on, any modifications to the
unit meant tearing it apart and replacing 90% of it.
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Also, the chintzy plastic air valve
handle was not up to the rigors of off-road use.
So after making all these changes, I ended up ditching the QF system
and designed my own from scratch to avoid all these problems. The key
features I found for off-road use are flexibility, reliability and
redundancy. Over the years, I assembled a good collection of
attachments for the QF system to make airing up and down easier.
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For example an air chuck on a quick-connect coupler is handy for airing
up one tire (for example after plugging a puncture or reseating a bead)
without having to unroll the entire set of hoses.
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Also, the air chuck by itself makes a handy tool for airing down one or
two tires, push it on the valve stem and out comes the air.
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The long hose set is useful by itself, I have hard-mounted my on-board
air compressor, so I need a long enough hose to reach all 4 tires, with
the QF and now the 4air I can not only reach all 4
tires, but reach them all at the same time. The Schrader valve stem on
the 4air manifold lets me hook up an air gauge, but
it also handy at filling stations, where you can't disconnect the air
chuck from the hose. This really pays for itself at those coin drop air
stations, you can just get everything hooked up, drop in your quarter
and get all the tires done in one shot. You save the time of running
from wheel to wheel and fumbling for more quarters in your pocket.
I also designed the system so that it could be easily modified to adapt
it for custom applications. All the fittings are standard 1/4" NPT
(National Pipe thread Tapered), so you can unscrew one thing and screw
in something else. For example, one customer uses his at an ocean
resort where they need to pull boat trailers out of the water several
times a day. He airs down then airs back up with a SCUBA air tank and
SCUBA air fitting that simply replaces the quick-connect fitting. The
pressure gauge, if you decide to use one, is easily replaced if damaged
(trust me it *will* get damaged). I only use parts that I (and you) can
easily obtain from most any hardware store. As such, I can built a 4air
system to meet your needs, or you can modify it yourself if you are so
inclined.
With the disappearance of Quadra Flate Enterprises and their excellent
product, I wanted to make my version available so others could benefit
from it. I find this is one of the most useful tools I carry in my 4x4,
it gets used at least twice every trip. If you would like to own a real
Quadra Flate, I no longer use mine and will sell it for $60 plus
shipping. I've rebuilt most of the air chucks, the air valve handle is
a bit broken but it still works. I could install a new brass valve for
$10 additional. If
interested, please contact me.
And, what's up with the name, anyway? When you pull out that coiled up
hose and start hooking it up to your valve stems and someone walks up
to you and says:
"What is that thing for?"
You can reply:
"Its 4air!" ( for air :)
Harry Lewellyn wrote an excellent article on "Tire Pressures for
4-Wheeling", highly recommended reading.
[back to the top]
[Return to my ForSale main page... ]
Questions
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Comments
[Last updated: 01.April.2013]
