
VW Accelerator Pedal Bushing
a product of Visual
Diagnostics LLC
Visitor #
12747
since 21.MAR.2002
NOTE: 4Crawler Offroad/MissingLinkZ will be on reduced operations until 07.JUL.2008. New orders may not be processed until that date and e-mail response may be delayed. Stay tuned to this page for updates.
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Ever get the feeling you have the accelerator pedal floored but are not
getting full throttle? Assuming your throttle cable is properly
adjusted, you may have a worn accelerator pedal bushing. This bushing
is located in a loop on the end of the linkage arm attached to the
accelerator pedal. The stock A1 bushings were made of a foam rubber and
an upgraded solid rubber one is available for the A2s as a replacement.
Over time, even the upgraded rubber bushing deteriorates and eventually
disintegrates, like this one did:
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| New UHMW bushing vs. stock |
UHMW bushing installed |
In the image (above left), you can see the remnant of the rubber A2
bushing on the right. While replacements are available, I wanted
something better, so I machined out a replacement bushing out of some
Ultra-High Molecular Weight Poly-Ethylene (UHMW-PE). This is a direct
fit for the stock A1 or A2 bushing (see installed image above-right),
but will not age like the rubber bushing. It is also a stiffer material
than rubber, so you won't have the sponginess of the stock bushing.
While I like working on my VW, I don't like working on the same part
every few years, I want to fix it once and have it last. I've now run
run the prototype bushing for over a 4 years now and it has no signs of
wear.
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If you are interested in replacing your worn bushing with an upgraded
replacement for all A1 and A2 model VWs (gas or diesel); the cost is
$10.00 plus applicable sales tax and shipping:
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First Class/Airmail shipping:
4-7 days domestic, 2 weeks intl.
$2.00 postage |
Priority Mail Shipping (US only):
2-3 days domestic
$7.00 postage |
Priority Mail International:
6-10 days to most countries
$11.00 postage |
Express Mail shipping (US Only)
1-2 days domestic
$20.00 postage |
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Notes:
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Please refer to the following notes for installation. Unless requested,
no printed installation notes will be shipped with the bushing.
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| A: Removing lock washer |
B: Lock washer and washer |
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| C: Installing accelerator |
D: Installing bushing |
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Since the UHMW material doesn't compress like the stock rubber bushing,
it is designed to be a press fit into the hole in the accelerator
pedal.
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Probably easiest to do with the accelerator pedal removed from the
vehicle
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If your vehicle has A/C, you may find the heater vents are larger and
higher up than the one pictured above (C). In that case,
removal and reinstallation of the accelerator pedal may be difficult.
It may be a better idea to use a pair of pliers, vice grips or a clamp
to press the new bushing into the end of the pedal arm.
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If you can't find a way to press it in, use a file or some sandpaper to
reduce the OD of the bushing a little so its no longer a press fit,
then slip it in and glue it in place.
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Use a screwdriver to gently pry off the lock washer on the end of the
accelerator pedal shaft (see
photo A above)
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Be careful, the lock washer can fly off and get lost
very easily!!!
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If lost the VW p/n is: N-012-327-6 (or equivalent), a new one is NOT
included with the bushing kit (see photo B above)
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It is easiest to slip the pedal shaft out part ways, remove the outer
nylon bushing, then pop the inner bushing free and pivot the pedal
assembly free of the bracket, disconnecting the throttle cable before
removing it.
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Important note: If you find you have to really force
the pedal assembly to remove it, realize that it may be even harder to
put it back into the bracket, so you may want to consider replacing the
bushing with the pedal assembly in place.
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Remove the old bushing and
install the new one
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It is a good idea to apply some adhesive or sealant on the back side of
the bushing to hold it in place.
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Note that the hole for the throttle cable can be slightly offset from
the center.
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This allows for fine tuning the pull on the throttle cable. In the
picture above, I put the hole closer to the top, to give a slightly
longer cable pull, as I was not getting enough throttle travel on my
diesel injector pump. If the hole is offset to the front, you'll keep
the same travel and down will shorten the travel.
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Install the inner nylon bushing and get the accelerator pedal shaft
into the bracket (photo C
above), this is a tight fit and you may have to use a
little force to get it into the hole.
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Slide the shaft in and through both holes in the bracket and install
the outer nylon bushing, washer and lock washer (see photo D above)
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It is also a good idea to check your throttle cable adjustment at this
time, especially if you had changed it before replacing the bushing.
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Since this bushing material has very little compliance, you need to
make sure that the throttle cable is not hitting the throttle stop
before the pedal hits its stop.
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If it is, you could stretch the cable.
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Adjust the throttle cable by loosening the retaining nut under the ball
stud and move it in or out along the throttle arm as needed.
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In some applications, a custom-sized bushing may be required. If you
think you may need one, contact me for more details with the link
below:
If
you have any questions or problems with the installation, please feel
free to contact MissingLinkZ by e-mail.
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[Last updated: 30.April.2008]