Contents:

• Introduction
• Ordering
• Installation

Introduction:

Ever get the feeling you have the accelerator pedal floored but are not getting full throttle? Assuming your throttle cable is properly adjusted, you may have a worn accelerator pedal bushing. This bushing is located in a loop on the end of the linkage arm attached to the accelerator pedal. The stock A1 bushings were made of a foam rubber and an upgraded solid rubber one is available for the A2s as a replacement. Over time, even the upgraded rubber bushing deteriorates and eventually disintegrates, like the one below did. Did you ever find a pencil in an old desk drawer and try to use the eraser only to have it crumble to pieces? Well, that is what happens to the rubber bushing given 10+ years.

New UHMW bushing vs. stock	UHMW bushing installed

In the image (above left), you can see the remnant of the rubber A2 bushing on the right. While replacements are available, I wanted something better, so I machined out a replacement bushing out of some Ultra-High Molecular Weight Poly-Ethylene (UHMW-PE). This is a direct fit for the stock A1 or A2 bushing (see installed image above-right), but will not age like the rubber bushing. It is also a stiffer material than rubber, so you won't have the sponginess of the stock bushing.

While I like working on my VW, I don't like working on the same part every few years, I want to fix it once and have it last. I've now run run the prototype bushing for over a 4 years now and it has no signs of wear.

Ordering Information:

If you are interested in replacing your worn bushing with an upgraded replacement for all A1 and A2 model VWs (gas or diesel); the cost is $10.00 plus applicable sales tax and shipping:

Notes:

• Parts are shipped from zip 95051 (CA)
• A tracking number will be provided for the 2 expedited shipping options above
• Click here for more information or for other options to order a replacement bushing

Installation Notes:

Please refer to the following notes for installation. Unless requested, no printed installation notes will be shipped with the bushing.

A: Removing lock washer	B: Lock washer and washer
C: Installing accelerator	D: Installing bushing

• Since the UHMW material doesn't compress like the stock rubber bushing, it is designed to be a press fit into the hole in the accelerator pedal.
  • Probably easiest to do with the accelerator pedal removed from the vehicle
    • If your vehicle has A/C, you may find the heater vents are larger and higher up than the one pictured above (C). In that case, removal and reinstallation of the accelerator pedal may be difficult. It may be a better idea to use a pair of pliers, vice grips or a clamp to press the new bushing into the end of the pedal arm.
    • If you can't find a way to press it in, use a file or some sandpaper to reduce the OD of the bushing a little so its no longer a press fit, then slip it in and glue it in place.
  • If (and only if) you need to remove the accel. pedal from the bracket to install the new bushing, you can use a screwdriver to gently pry off the lock washer on the end of the accelerator pedal shaft (see photo A above)
    • Be careful, the lock washer can fly off and get lost very easily!!!
      • If lost the VW p/n is: N-012-327-6 (or equivalent), a new one is NOT included with the bushing kit (see photo B above)
    • It is easiest to slip the pedal shaft out part way, then remove the outer nylon bushing, then pop the inner bushing free and pivot the pedal assembly free of the bracket, disconnecting the throttle cable before removing it.
      • Important note: If you find you have to really force the pedal assembly to remove it, realize that it may be even harder to put it back into the bracket, so you may want to consider replacing the bushing with the pedal assembly in place.
    • And if you can get the bushing installed with the pedal in place, you are all set, no need to mess with removing the pedal from the bracket!
  • Remove the old bushing and install the new one
    • It is a good idea to apply some adhesive or sealant on the back side of the bushing to hold it in place.
      • That side is left rough for better adhesion, I used Loctite Plastix Advanced Plastic Bonder on mine.
    • Note that the hole for the throttle cable can be slightly offset from the center.
      • This allows for fine tuning the pull on the throttle cable. In the picture above, I put the hole closer to the top, to give a slightly longer cable pull, as I was not getting enough throttle travel on my diesel injector pump. If the hole is offset to the front, you'll keep the same travel and down will shorten the travel.
  • Install the inner nylon bushing and get the accelerator pedal shaft into the bracket (photo C above), this is a tight fit and you may have to use a little force to get it into the hole.
  • Slide the shaft in and through both holes in the bracket and install the outer nylon bushing, washer and lock washer (see photo D above)
• It is also a good idea to check your throttle cable adjustment at this time, especially if you had changed it before replacing the bushing.
  • Since this bushing material has very little compliance, you need to make sure that the throttle cable is not hitting the throttle stop before the pedal hits its stop.
  • If it is, you could stretch the cable.
  • Adjust the throttle cable by loosening the retaining nut under the ball stud and move it in or out along the throttle arm as needed.
• In some applications, a custom-sized bushing may be required. If you think you may need one, contact me for more details with the link below: