
Toyota Front Differential and Sway Bar Drop Kits

a division of Visual Diagnostics LLC
Visitor #
74417
since 04.OCT.2003

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NOTE: Due to extraordinary high order volume, it may take some time for production and shipments to catch up. Order backlog could be up to 3 weeks, so if it bothers you to have your order delayed that long, wait until we catch up before placing your order.
On the Toyota Tacomas (1995.5 and later) and the 4Runners (1996 and
later), with suspension lifts over 2", the front CV axles operate
at too great an angle which increases wear and tear and can cause them
to break under off-road conditions. One simple cure for this problem is
to lower the differential on the front axle to reduce the angle on the
CVs. So with a 1" differential drop (i.e. Diff Drop) on a 3"
lifted truck, it returns the CV angles closer to that of a more mild
2" lift.
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| A: 1" Diff. Drop Basic Kit |
B: Stock Setup |
C: Drop Spacer Installed |
Pictured above (A) is the diff spacer or drop kit. It includes 2 -
1" tall x 2" OD T6061 aluminum spacers and a pair of long
1/2" bolts and lock nuts to replace the stock bolt and a pair of
8mm bolts (not pictured) to reattach the front skid plate. In (B)
above, you can see the stock differential mounts and in (C) you can see
the 1" spacer installed which in turn lowers the differential
assembly. The differential mount to the rear is left as-is, the front
differential assembly pivots down around that fixed point.
And now available for the 1986-1995 IFS Toyota 4WD pickups and
4Runners, the same front differential drop kit technology is now
available:
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| D: 1" IFS Diff Drop Basic Kit |
E: 1" IFS Sway Bar Drop Kit |
F: IFS Drop Kit Installed |
Pictured above (D) is the 1" IFS front diff. drop kit. The spacers
install between the frame and front diff bushing (shown circled in RED in image F above). Pictured above (E) is the
1" front sway bar brkt. drop kit. The spacers install between the
frame and front sway bar brkts. (sway bar bracket shown for clarity, it
is not included in the kit) and lowers the front sway bar 1". This
does two things, one is to provide room for the lowered front
driveshaft to clear the sway bar (see clearance in image F above). It
also lowers the sway bar to help compensate for the suspension lift,
restoring the sway bar to a more neutral orientation for better
performance. This spacer kit is ideal for trucks with "cranked
up" torsion bars or with the popular ball joint spacers.
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IFS Differential Drop Notes:
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The differential mount to the front is left as-is, the front
differential assembly pivots down around that fixed point. The drop kit
thus will slightly increase the u-joint angle on the front driveshaft,
so it is a trade-off; lowered CV joint angles but increased u-joint
angle. Since the u-joint is operating at a near zero degree angle and
the CVs are operating at near their maximum angles, this is a fair
trade-off. Also, the front driveshaft will only be turning when you are
actually using 4WD, it will not be turning all the time. The CV axles
can be moving all the time if your vehicle has the popular Automatic
Differential Disconnect (ADD) front axle.
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A diff drop will have no impact you the lift or ride height of the
vehicle. It will neither raise nor lower the front suspension. It only
affect the location of the front differential relative to the frame.
Likewise it will have no impact (positive or negative) on the front end
steering geometry (e.g. toe in, camber, caster).
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Front Sway Bar Drop Brackets:
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With a front suspension lift, you are in effect moving the suspension
control arms away from the frame an amount equal to the height of the
lift. One problem this can cause is that the front (anti-)sway bar, if
attached, is now no longer sitting in it's original horizontal
orientation, since the center of the sway bar is attached to the frame
and the end links are attached to the suspenion control arms. This can
lead to less efficient anti-sway bar operation. Why? Because if the
ends of the sway bar are closer to level, one side will twist upwards
and the other side will twist downwards by an equal amount when you are
in a hard turn. It is the torsional stiffness of the center of the sway
bar that resists this twist and helps to level the body by controlling
the body roll (or sway) in hard turns. When the sway bars ends are down
at an extreme angle, you end up with one end twisting down farther and
the other end twisting less far down. With these unequal angles, you
end up needing more twist of the bar to control the body roll and that
means there is more body roll than you had with a level sway bar. See this web
page for a more detailed explanation...
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So there are two ways to fix this issue.
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The first is to add longer sway bar end links, you can either modify
your existing end links for the added length, or here is a
custom built option.
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A second option that is less expensive, is to simply lower the sway bar
mounting brackets under the frame. This can be done with a simple
spacer and longer bolts. See above for the IFS Sway Bar Drop
Kit. Since the sway bar attches about half way out on the
lower control arm, it only "sees" about 1/2 of the front
suspension lift, so a 1" drop spacer is good for around 2" of
lift. No need to be exact here, there are no "sway bar
police" out there that will be pulling you over to check your sway
bar setup. If you have a lift, the 1" sway bar drop kit will help
restore your front sway bar to it's factory geometry.
Not every vehicle with a suspension lift will need a differential drop
kit installed. How do you tell if your vehicle might be able to make
use of one? Well, there are a couple of symptoms which you might want
to look for.
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Lift the front tires off the ground and then try grabbing each half
shaft of the front axle and slowly turn it through a full rotation. If
you feel any binding in the CV joints at this full droop condition,
that is your CV joints telling you that they are hitting their angle
limit. Also try this with the wheels straight ahead and at full
steering lock to test all cases. A CV joint that binds up under load
can easily snap on the trail.
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If you find your CV joint boots are wearing out unusually fast, that
can be a sign of too much angle. Easy check is to examine the upper
ribs of outer CV joint and the lower ribs of the inner CV joint and see
if they are being pinched hard together on the top/bottom side of the
boots. If so, and especially if you have the stock front differential
disconnect (ADD) system and your CVs are spinning all the time, this
can cause the ribs to wear against each other and eventually wear
through the material and cause the boot to fail. Usually the more ribs
that are touching, the less ideal the CV joint angle is.
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One other fix you can try for boots wearing out is to install manula
locking hubs, if you currently do not have that type of hub. With manul
hubs, unlocked, your CV joints will not be turning all the time like
thay do with the ADD type drive flanges. On the '95 and earlier trucks
(torsion bar front suspension), this is a simple matter of swapping in
manual hubs in place of the drive flanges. On the '96 and later trucks
(coil spring front suspension) this is a more involved swap as you need
to change out more of the front end parts. You can search on any of the
popular Toyota web forums for details on doing this swap.
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Another fix for the boot wear issue is to slide the end of the affected
CV boot farther along the axle shaft and then glue/clamp it in that
slightly stretched location. Search for "Boot Slide Mod" on
any of the popular Toyota web forums for details on this simple
modification. Essentially you are just stretching the CV boot out a
little to pull the ribs apart so they are not rubbing all the time. You
don't want to stretch the boot too far or the ribs on the other side
may be over stretched and tear.
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Another potential solution is to keep the CV boots clean and lubricated
with a dry silicone spray periodically. This will help to keep the
friction between the boot ribs to a minimum and keeping grit off of
them will help with the abrasion.
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If you find your CV joints are wearing out or breaking more frequently
than before you installed the suspension lift, this may also be a sign
of the need to reduce the CV joint angles with a differential drop kit.
A diff drop kit will not cause a lot of loss of front ground clearance.
As is, the front diff sits higher than the subframe/cross members and
the diff drop will lower the diff down about to the level of the sub
frame/cross member. And the diff. housing is made of pretty thick
material to can stand up to a decent amount of abuse. After all, look
at your rear differential, it hangs down lower in back. Now, if you
have, or plan to install, a front suspension cross member, a diff. drop
kit probably will not work, as that cross member will be in the way of
lowering the front diff.
It is fairly easy to check if a diff. drop kit will fit on your truck
in case you are concerned about fitment, especially with non-stock lift
or suspension parts installed. All you need is a ratchet and socket set
and a floor or bottle jack. Simply locate the two vertical mount bolts
that attach the front differential to the frame. On the earlier 4WD
pickups and 4Runners, those two bolts will be behind the differential.
On the later model 4WD Tacoma and 4Runner vehicles, the two bolts will
be in front of the differential. There are also horizontal bolts that
will attach the differential to the frame on the opposite side of the
differential as the vertical bolts, these will not be touched. So, to
check, simply place the jack under the front diff so it is close to
contacting the housing. Then loosen and remove the two vertical bolts
and let the differential drop down with the jack until you have a
1" gap between the frame bracket and rubber bushing on the
differential housing. That is how far down the diff. drop kit will
lower your front differential. If all is clear, you are good to go. If
you find something like the sway bar or skid plate is in the way, see
the deluxe diff. drop kit options to address those issues. If you find
something like an aftermarket cross member or suspension brace is in
the way, then a diff. drop may not be suitable. One option in that case
is that we can make a custom sized drop spacer if perhaps 1/2" or
3/4" drop would fit.
And what if we don't offer a diff. drop kit for your vehicle? Well, if you have gotten this far,
simply measure the length and diameter of the two mounting bolts and if
you think a 1" tall x 2" diameter drop spacer will fit, we'll
be happy to look into offering a custom kit for your application. All
the kits we currently offer were developed in this same way, someone
asked for the kit, supplied us with the basic dimensions and the rest
is history.
A quick way to check the sway bar geometry is simply to look at the
ends of the bar where it attaches to the suspension via the end links.
Ideally, the end links should be plumb vertical and the sway bar ends
horizontal when the vehicle is sitting on level ground. The reason for
this is the way the sway bar works is that is resists the tendency of
the body to sway or roll to the outside in a turn. When you go around a
turn at speed, the centrifugal forces through the center of gravity of
the vehicle produce an outward force which loads up the out-side
suspension and takes weight off the in-side suspension. This is the
cause of the lean you feel and see when you make a turn. The sway bar,
being attached to both sides of the suspension is forced up on the
out-side and forced down on the in-side and the bar in the center
twists to resist that uneven loading and keep the body more level that
it would otherwise be. Now if the bar ends start out horizontal at
rest, then you'll equal up and down twisting on the ends in a turn and
you'll get maximum roll stability. If on the other hand the bar ends
are already angled downward due to a suspension lift, then you'll find
the the two ends of the bar will be twisted at differing angles, one
down more and one down less. This results in less roll stabilitity and
thus more body lean in the same turn. Since the sway bars are typically
attached to the frame in the center portion, by lowering that
attachment point, you can help restore end thend of the bar towards
horizontal. Also, note that the bar ends only attach part way out on
the suspension, perhaps mid-way between the pivot point and the wheel,
so they only see about half the actual height of the suspension lift.
So a one inch sway bar drop spacer is good for compensating for a few
inches of suspension lift.
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NOTE: Due to extraordinary high order volume, it may take some time for production and shipments to catch up. Order backlog could be up to 3 weeks, so if it bothers you to have your order delayed that long, wait until we catch up before placing your order.
Two main versions of the front differential drop kit are available:
Please be sure to order the right kit to match your vehicle. The
"IFS" kits fit the torsion bar front suspension 4WD trucks
and 4Runners up through 1995 (in the US anyway). Outside the US, the
kits will typically also fit the 4WD Hilux pickups with the torsion bar
front suspension. Aside from the suspension, the other distinguishing
feature is that the two vertical
retaining bolts for the front differential are behind the differential.
The other diff. and sway bar drop kits are for the coil sprung front
suspensions on the 3rd gen 4Runner and Tacoma pickups. The two kits are
not interchangeable between those generations.
The various differential and sway bar drop kits can be combined for
shipping with other parts ordered with the multiple item order form.
For international shipping, be advised that there are weight
limitations in certain size packages that preclude combined shipping.
For example with the ball joint spacers (3 lbs.) plus the IFS diff+sway
bar drop kit at ~2 lbs., this exceeds the 4 lb. small package weight
limit for USPS shipping. Two options are to place into one larger box
for a shipping cost of US$34.00 for Canada/Mexico or US$49.00 for the
rest of the world, or of course the order can be shipped in two
packages, both under 4 lbs.
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Parts may be returned for a refund within 30 days of original purchase.
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A 10% restocking fee will be deducted from original purchase price less
outgoing postage.
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Parts must be in new and unused condition for the refund.
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Used or blemished parts can yield partial refunds at the discretion of
4Crawler Offroad.
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The customer is responsible for return shipping charges.
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One exception to this policy is in the case that the spacers do not fit
properly, per the
installation instructions;
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In such a case 4Crawler Offroad will refund the full purchase price
less shipping.
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Return to:
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4Crawler Offroad Products
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attn: Roger Brown
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PO Box 61092
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Sunnyvale, CA. 94088-1092
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With the discounted, default shipping on the items on this page, there
is no shipping insurance against loss or damage. Also, international
shipments have minimal tracking information available. If that is fine
with you, by all means order with the default shipping. If you wish to
have your shipment insured against loss or damage in transit and have
full tracking on international shipments, you may add insured,
trackable shipping to your order:
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| US: Add insured shipping for US$3.00. |
International: Add insured/trackable shipping for
US$18.00 |
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If you have a 1995 or earlier Toyota 4WD pickup or 4Runner, these
parts WILL NOT FIT!
Order one of the IFS kits in the following section
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| US: Cost of the basic kit (drop spacers + longer
bolts) is $29.00 (includes std. shipping in the US) + applicable sales
tax. |
US: Cost of the deluxe kit (basic kit + skid plate
h/w) is $34.00 (includes std. shipping in the US) + applicable sales
tax. |
US: Cost of the deluxe kit is $34.00 plus $20.00
extra for Express Mail shipping (US only 1-2 days), + applicable sales
tax. |
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| International: Cost of the basic kit (drop spacers +
longer bolts) is $29.00 plus $14.00 discounted shipping world-wide
(include local phone number in the "Note to Seller" field). |
International: Cost of the deluxe kit (basic kit +
skid plate h/w) is $34.00 plus $14.00 discounted shipping world-wide
(include local phone number in the "Note to Seller" field). |
International: Cost of the deluxe kit is $34.00 plus
$32.00 for Express Mail International shipping (most countries, 3-5
days). |
New pricing/options and free standard US shipping:
-
Your order will be shipped via Priority Mail for domestic (US
addresses, including APO/FPO - provide phone number with the order for
customs form) with a delivery tracking number provided at time of
shipment (tracking not available on some APO/FPO addresses), 2-3 days
delivery time typical.
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International orders will be shipped via Priority Mail International,
6-10 days delivery time typical.
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Shipping weight approx. 2.5 lbs.
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Please be sure to double check your shipping address, both that it is
correct and that it is able to receive US Mail deliveries.
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Also, international shipments
require a local telephone number for customs paperwork, include that
in the "Note To Seller" field of the order form. Lack of
phone number will delay shipment of the parts. Note that for international shipments,
package tracking information is limited and there is no shipping
insurance available.
Order the basic kit if you do not have a factory skid plate (or intend
to remove yours) and order the deluxe kit if you have the factory skid
plate as it will need to be lowered to install the differential drop
kit. You may also be able to elongate the holes in the factory skid
plate to accomodate the diff. drop without the added spacers of the
deluxer jit.
Front Sway Bar Drop Kits:
Below are front sway bar drop kits for use on the 1996-2002 Toyota
4Runner and 1995.5-2004 Toyota Tacoma vehicles. These will work with
the 4WD and PreRunner model vehicles. Note that the Tacoma (2-3/4"
center-center, 7/16" offset) and 3rd gen 4Runner (3"
center-center, 7/16" offset) sway bar brackets have a
different bolt hole spacing (as noted), so be sure to specify which
type you need below, and feel free to double check your bolt hole
spacing to see if it matches the above dimensions. If not, a custom
sway bar drop bracket may be possible. Also note that this drop kit is
designed to work with sway bar brackets that either attach with a pair
of 8mm bolts or a bolt and stud where there is at least 1" of
thread exposed on the stud past the end of the nut.
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US: Cost of the front sway bar drop (only)
kit is $25 (includes US shipping) + applicable sales tax. |
| ~~~ |
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International: Cost of the front sway bar drop (only)
kit is US$25.00 - plus US$14.00 shipping to most
countries. Include local phone number
in the "Note to Seller" field. |
Notes:
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Sway bar bracket and bushing (pictured above) not included
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Your order will be shipped via Priority Mail for domestic (US
addresses, including APO/FPO - provide phone number with the order for
customs form) with a delivery tracking number provided at time of
shipment (tracking not available on some APO/FPO addresses), 2-3 days
delivery time typical.
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Shipping wieght approx. 3/4 lbs.
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International orders will be shipped via Priority Mail International,
6-10 days delivery time typical.
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Please be sure to double check your shipping address, both that it is
correct and that it is able to receive US Mail deliveries.
-
Also, international shipments
require a local telephone number for customs paperwork, include that
in the "Note To Seller" field of the order form. Lack of
phone number will delay shipment of the parts. Note that for international shipments,
package tracking information is limited and there is no shipping
insurance available.
Order the one of the kits above.
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| US: Cost of the IFS diff drop basic kit is $29.00
(includes US shipping) + applicable sales tax. |
US: Cost of the IFS sway bar drop (only) kit is
$25.00 (includes US shipping) + applicable sales tax.
Note: sway bar brkt/bushing not included |
US: Cost of the IFS diff drop deluxe kit is $49.00
(includes US shipping) + applicable sales tax. |
| ~~~ |
~~~ |
~~~ |
|
|
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| International: Cost of the IFS diff drop basic kit
is US$29.00 plus US$14.00 shipping - world-wide to most countries -
include local phone number in the "Note to Seller" field |
International: Cost of the IFS sway bar drop (only)
kit is US$25.00 plus US$14.00 shipping - world-wide to most countries -
include local phone number in the "Note to Seller" field |
International: Cost of the IFS diff drop deluxe kit
is US$49.00 plus US$14.00 shipping - world-wide to most countries -
include local phone number in the "Note to Seller" field |
New pricing/options and free standard US shipping:
-
Your order will be shipped via Priority Mail for domestic (US
addresses, including APO/FPO - provide phone number with the order for
customs form) with a delivery tracking number provided at time of
shipment (tracking not available on some APO/FPO addresses), 2-3 days
delivery time typical.
-
International orders will be shipped via Priority Mail International,
6-10 days delivery time typical.
-
Shipping weight approx. 2-1/2 - 3 lbs. depending on kit.
-
Please be sure to double check your shipping address, both that it is
correct and that it is able to receive US Mail deliveries.
-
Also, international shipments
require a local telephone number for customs paperwork, include that
in the "Note To Seller" field of the order form. Lack of
phone number will delay shipment of the parts. Note that for international shipments,
package tracking information is limited and there is no shipping
insurance available.
Notes:
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Order the basic kit if you do not have a front sway bar or intend to
remove it.
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Order the deluxe kit if you have a front sway bar as it will need to be
lowered with the differential drop kit.
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The sway bar drop kit is available separately and can be used with
other differential drop or suspension lift kits to lower the front sway
bar for better operation.
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Bolt hole spacing is approx. 2.5" (63mm) and offset a[[rpx.
3/8"(10mm) if you want to check fitment prior to ordering.
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IMPORTANT:
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Some rare vehicles will have one or both of the stock diff mount nuts
welded to the upper cup on the frame bracket (way less than 1 in 100
vehicles - in fact we have only encountered 3 such vehicles in the
years we have been shipping these kits). If you think yours may be
welded, an extra long bolt kit is available that lets you run the diff
drop bolt through that welded in place nut and then put a new lock nut
on top of the stock nut.
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If you think you need the extra long bolt(s), add a note to seller in
the order form to indicate this requirement and indicate how many
longer bolts you'll need (1 or 2).
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Easy to check for this by simply breaking each of the vertical
differential mounting bolts loose and feel up on top of the nut is
loose or not. If the nut is not loose, it is likely welded in place.
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Or if you find you need the extra long bolt after ordering, you can
usually pick up a 1/2"x5-1/2" fine thread bolt at the local
hardware store or you can order one/two bolts for $6.00/$9.00 US or
US$17.00/US20.00 international, shipping included.
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And why do we not use a longer, stock threaded bolt?
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The main reason is that with the drop spacer installed, the bolt angle
is not perfectly vertical and it'll be very hard to get the longer bolt
threaded into that welded nut without cross-threading and stripping out
the nut. Also, that extra long, fine threaded metric bolt, if
available, is very expensive, so would increase the cost of every kit,
whether it is needed or not.
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So by using a slightly smaller diameter bolt, you can pass the bolt
through the welded nut and intall a new nut on top without the problems
of cross threading.
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And because of the smaller than stock diameter, we also up the strength
of the bolt to Grade 8 to compensate for the loss of cross sectional
area.
[Return to the top of this page]
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| A: Stock Setup |
B: Drop Spacer Installed |
Allow approximately 30 minutes for the installation, assuming you don't
run into any rusted or damaged fasteners. You'll need an assortment of
wrenches and/or sockets plus a torque wrench to tighten the
differential mounting bolts. Read through the instructions below to
familiarize yourself with the steps involved. Note these instructions
cover installation on both:
and cover installation of all components. Depending on your vehicle
type and kit ordered, you may not need to do every step listed below:
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For Tacoma and 3rd gen 4Runner:
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Remove both skid plates under the front of
the vehicle
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Save the OEM bolts, a total of nine 12mm
bolts
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Support the differential with a floor jack, if needed.
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Remove factory bolts and nuts, supporting the front
(or rear) of the differential
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See picture A above for the stock configuration
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Save the OEM washers for reinstalltion
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Lower differential far enough to allow insertion of the 1" drop
spacers
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Install the 1" spacers between the two front
(or rear) differential supports and
cross-member
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See picture B above
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On the '95 and older vehicles, if one
spacer is taller than the other, install that on the farther back
differential mount.
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Fasten to cross-member using new 1/2" bolts and nuts (making sure
to reuse the factory washers)
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If the stock washers hang up on the bolt threads, try dropping the
bolt, head first, into a length of tubing or between the jaws of a
vise, so that its hanging from the washer. Then use a hammer to drive
the bolt out of the washer
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Some rare vehicles will have one or
both of the stock diff mount nuts welded to the upper cup on the frame
(way less than 1 in 100 vehicles). If you think yours may be, an extra
long bolt kit is available that lets you run the diff drop bolt through
that welded in place nut and then put a new lock nut on top of the
stock nut.
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If you think you need the extra
long bolt(s), add a note to seller in the order form to indicate this
requirement.
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Or if you find you need the extra
long bolt after ordering, you can usually pick up a
1/2"x5-1/2" fine thread bolt at the local hardware store or
you can order one for US$6.00 (including US shipping or $17.00
international)..
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Tighten to the factory specifications, consult the Factory Service Manual for torque
specifications
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If you don't have the factory specs, 50-70 ft.lbs. should be adequate
for this size bolt
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For Tacoma and 3rd gen 4Runner:
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Install the front skid plate using three
(3)OEM bolts on the front and two (2) new 8mm bolts and spacers in the
rear
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The back of the front skid plate will
need to be spaced down to clear the now lower differential.
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If needed, you may need to
elongate the holes about 1 hole diameter, so consider drilling a small
pilot hole next to the existing hole, then enlarge it and trim out the
metal in between the two holes
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The holes may need to be
elongated/enlarged because the skid plate is not resting at an angle
and thus the diagonal distance between the mounting bolts is longer
than when it was resting flush.
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Or you may be able to elongate those bolt
holes if you ordered the basic kit..
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DO NOT TIGHTEN YET
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To install the rear skid plate, elongate the
rear mounting holes, again if needed, with a round file or drill bit
for fitment
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You may need to elongate the holes about
1 hole diameter, so consider drilling a small pilot hole next to the
existing hole, then enlarge it and trim out the metal in between the
two holes
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Once holes are elongated, mount rear skid
plate with OEM M8 bolts
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Torque all skid plate bolts to the factory
specifications
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Consult the Factory Service Manual for torque
specifications
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If you don't have the factory specs,
10-12 ft.lbs. should be adequate for this size bolt
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Sway Bar drop bracket
kit installation:
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Remove the 4 bolts holding the stock sway
bar brackets to the frame (if present)
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Be careful removing the bolts, if they
don't come out easily, spray some penetrating oil up inside the frame
onto the ends of the bolts to help free them.
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Forcing the bolts too hard can break off
the nuts welded up inside the frame
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Insert the sway bar drop brackets between
the frame and the stock brackets and attach them back in place with the
longer bolts supplied. Use of an anti-sieze compound is a good idea.
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After a few hundred miles of driving, its a good idea to re-check the
bolts and make sure they are still tight.
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Here are a few installation writeups:
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Questions? -->
<-- Comments?
email: sales@4Crawler.com
[Last updated: 24.April.2012]
